No but they look interesting... Might have to order one.... And there are cutters on both side so looks like you get 2....
AG
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Same basic design that RCBS has for their prep center.
I've used it, and I prefer to swage.
Brandon
"When you can't make them see the light, make them feel the heat." - Ronald Reagan
Unless there's some compelling reason to do otherwise (I haven't yet encountered it), I prefer not to remove metal from the primer pocket area. For those who don't mind, it looks like a well made tool, nicely finished.
Any hand held approach is likely to remove metal "off axis" if you get what I mean. Kind of like sharpening a knife blade w/o a fixture.
You have two options as I see it, swag or remove metal. I'd rather swage than remove metal. If I was going to remove metal, I'm not sure I see much advantage over a regular chamfer tool.
i have all 3 from this seller small, large and bmg
ive had good luck with them
buy with confidence
you can adjust how much metal you care to remove
i take a little of the crimp out then i run the brass through the rcbs press mounted swager
good thing i don't deal with much crimped brass
Well, That looks like a well designed/engineered/built tool, and will prolly last a lifetime of deburring brass, but for a new reloader it may be overkill. Unless you're a "tool nut" like me, you can get by cheaper and easier.
As a lifelong machinist/mechanic my first encounter with primer crimps led me to a "normal" solution; a countersink. Common sense tells one to just remove enough metal to enable new primer seating and not reshape the sides of the pocket (just a couple twists by hand are all that's necessary). I have done a lot of crimp removals with a plain old 60 degree countersink on 9mm, 45 ACP, 5.56, and 30-06 (I shoot a lot od mil-spec brass in my M1) and I have never had a primer fail from too little support due to using a counter sink. But it boils down to what you would like to use; countersink, reamer, or swage, they all remove the mil-spec crimps...
My Anchor is holding fast!
People have been sharpening knife blades "off axis" for centuries with good results and no disasters. People have also been removing primer crimps "off axis" for as long as people have been reloading cases with crimped in primers, again with good results and no disasters.
The tool in questions looks like it would work just fine. Here are many other and cheaper methods that will work equally well.
I have swaged and cut out the crimps and have no strong preference of one way over another. Moving the crimped material back won't make the case any stronger than cutting it out. Once that metal has been moved it will never go back the way it was. It is only a matter of which method you choose to use to get it out of the way of a new primer.
Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.
"People have been sharpening knife blades "off axis" for centuries with good results and no disasters. People have also been removing primer crimps "off axis" for as long as people have been reloading cases with crimped in primers, again with good results and no disasters."
That's perfectly true, Char. So is my statement.
Not sure if those were meant to remove crimps. They look like regular primer pocket uniformers to square up the pocket, to ensure uniform seating depth and squareness. Probably would cut through a crimp though, but I would prefer to move the brass in that area of the pocket through swaging, than remove it.
Dutch
"The future ain't what it used to be".
-Yogi Berra.
Quick twist with a standard case deburring tool does the exact same thing with
no need for another tool.
I prefer to swage out the crimp rather than remove metal from a critical area of my
brass. I have done both ways and stopped cutting years ago. Does it work? Yes.
Bill
Last edited by MtGun44; 01-09-2014 at 02:17 AM.
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
Dillon Super Swager 600..... best $100 I ever spent. I actually enjoy removing crimps with this unit. Easy to use... works with any cartrage.... I bolt it to my bench using wing nuts and remove it when I'm done...
A ten dollar Hornady crimp reamer chucked in a cordless drill knocks out mass quantities of military brass in short order.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |