Monotype, linotype or something else?

[cbrick]

I live in Mississippi and the price is 50 cents a pound. How much should I buy at that price?

I read through this thread looking for your post where you broke your leg trying to get out the door to get the rest of it. You didn't post that so I guess you got it ALL at home nice & safe. At 50 cents a pound that's not mono . . . It's gold.

Rick

[keebo52]

they were closed Saturday.I hope to pick up some more Monday or Tuesday. Who can text this stuff to see what it really is?

[cbrick]

they were closed Saturday.I hope to pick up some more Monday or Tuesday. Who can text this stuff to see what it really is?

From your picture the odds of it being mono is great, Roto Metals (banner at top of page) can test it for you but I would think it not worth the money, bank on it being mono. I would get every single piece I could beg, borrow or steal the money to get. I would do so before the guy selling it finds out what he has and bumps the price up to about $3 a pound. If it is too much for your use it can be very easily sold here for much more than you paid for it. Like I said it's gold. One of the big benefits is that it's still in letter form, not melted into ingots where it could easily be anything.

Rick

[Boyscout]

My printer source verifies MaryB. The little round notch gives it away.

[aya]

Not to complicate things, but these look exactly like mine, and the wrapping reads monotype!
Monotype was delivered in three different compositons, the one used for handtyping beeing the hardest, like foundrytype. We didnt have monotype machines, but bought the types from factory and used them for handtyping. My books from printerschool says foundrytype should have a notch on the bottom of the type as well.

[keebo52]

Wow! Thanks for all the info. Guess I'll mix it like it's monotype. I know what to do for handguns but how should I mix this with ww for rifle?

[David2011]

Use a lead calculator. They're Excel spreadsheets that let you play with proportions to find out how much of each metal or alloy to blend, what the final proprtions will be and the predicted hardness.

My standard mix for handgun boolits is based on making the boolits cast well rather than hardness. I use 1/2 lb mono to 20 lb COWW. The metal flows very well, picking up the machining morks in the molds. According to the common knowledge it's light in the tin department but it casts really well and has a calculated BNH of 12.39.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...oy-calculators

http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...velocity-chart

This is a start; there is much more information available here.

David

[keebo52]

Went back today and bought all that he had (another 50 lbs). Does this photo help any with identification?

[MaryB]

That is a mix, monotype is the hollow stuff with no round notch, rest is foundry type

[btroj]

I have a bunch of that stuff

[Down South]

That is a mix, monotype is the hollow stuff with no round notch, rest is foundry type

I have a bunch of it all. Lino, Mono and Foundry. From the days gone by and my research back then, the blocks with the half round notch are Foundry. The blocks without the notch are Mono. I remember that accurate info was hard to come by back then when I was trying to figure out what was what. And I still would not bet a lot of money that I'm correct, but I think that I am.
You got a deal at $.50 per lb.
If you have pure Pb then you have the ticket to harden it up some.
I used to think, harder Boolits than COWW were better. Now, I find myself cutting COWW by 50% with pure Pb for better results. On Edit before I get flamed. I cast mostly for pistol and revolver. I know rifle boolits can many times need to be harder.
I have a lot of pure too. I lucked out when a buddy ripped out an X-Ray room a several years back. I got 12-1500 lbs of about 1/8" thick lead sheets that were on the walls. I still have not cleaned over half of that yet.