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Thread: Lyman 4500 Top Punch Problem

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
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    Lyman 4500 Top Punch Problem

    I recently started casting 356-125-2R (Lee Mold) 9mm. The mold is working great but my problem is the top punch I am using top punch number 311. I am casting with straight COWW and water quenching them. I will put the cast boolits in the 356 sizer die and run the lyman 4500 down but when the top punch comes in contact with the boolit, it leaves a ring around the top of the boolit, like it is marking the lead. Is this normal or is there a trick I don't know about.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

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    That happens sometimes. If the top punch fits the boolit close enough, use a dremel tool with a fine stone to break the edge that contacts the boolit nose. Just give it a gentle rounding.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by nhrifle View Post
    That happens sometimes. If the top punch fits the boolit close enough, use a dremel tool with a fine stone to break the edge that contacts the boolit nose. Just give it a gentle rounding.
    +1, although i put the top punch in the drill press and use 150grit or so and lightly sand it. after a few times i take a bullet and while the drill press is running i lightly put the bullet into the top punch and see how it effects the bullet.

  4. #4
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    I think I will start with sand paper and go from there. Thanks.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by hawgfan View Post
    I think I will start with sand paper and go from there. Thanks.
    Before you start working on it you need to check to see if the punch is the correct number for the bullet you are sizing. Please post a picture of both the bullet and the punch .

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    Before you start working on it you need to check to see if the punch is the correct number for the bullet you are sizing. Please post a picture of both the bullet and the punch .
    Ok I will take them and post later.

  7. #7
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    According to this website you are using the correct top punch, http://www.castpics.net/subsite/TopPunches/Lee.html

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    The base first sizers like the one you own have a problem keeping the bullet aligned correctly. Evidentaly the top punch does not share the same shape as the bullet therefore the marking on it. I would spray some prusson blue on the bullet and run it thru the sizer and then look at the pattern marks. Leave the dremel alone and have someone skilled to machine the punch on a lathe.

    Personally I would put it on ebay and purchase a push thru type sizer duch as a Star/Magma or Ballisti-cast.

  9. #9
    Boolit Man
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    I had the same problem with that exact bullet /punch combo. Chucked the top punch in my drill and used some 400 grit paper to break the edge that was marking the boolit. Takes about five minutes to do this and there is no rocket science involved.

    bruce
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  10. #10
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    If the ring is`nt causing feeding/chambering problems it`s really just cosmetic as most pistol/revolver rounds don`t get up to speeds where a ring would cause ballistic problems.

    My fix is to leave the TP alone & fill it with hot glue or epoxy ,then useing a boolit nose with a bit of lube or oil (release agent) & form a "custom" fit TP.

    GP
    GP100man

  11. #11
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    The hot glue isn't going to stick to the metal for very long. The epoxy idea does have merit. Anything to keep the sandpaper or Dremils out of the hands of children.

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy Griz44mag's Avatar
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    Anything to keep the sandpaper or Dremils out of the hands of children.
    6bg6ga, you might find that there are a lot of folks here that are more than capable of doing some minor mods to the tools of our hobby.
    Some of us (probably most of us) enjoy the challenge and get a great deal of satisfaction in the accomplishment of such tasks.
    The only "child like" behavior I have seen on here in a long time is the one that calls everyone else (except himself of course) incapable of doing anything for themselves. I was under the assumption that was the reason we all are here - to "do it ourselves". You know, casting, smelting, lubing, shooting, we manage that quite nicely.
    Personally I would put it on ebay and purchase a push thru type sizer duch as a Star/Magma or Ballisti-cast.
    If this is what you have, and you use it and get good results, then good for you.
    I think you will find that way more than 75% of the folks who use lube-sizers use the less expensive machines, and get very good results from them.
    "Personally" (since you made it that way) I think that makes us 75%ers into good old boys and not snobers.

    Just my opinion though.
    Griz44Mag
    Here in Texas, It's the Biggest, Best and Most Important (or we just won't talk about it)

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    Grizz44mag old buddy I call them like I see them. I opted to post my two cents and unfortunately you got your fir ruffled....too bad. Unfortunately, there are some well meaning individuals here that are incapable of certain tasks. Grabbing a dremel or sandpaper (chucking the punch in a drill press) without doing something as simple as using some prussion blue and checking to see if there is an actual problem is well kind of not the proper way to do it. Beings that I have owned one of these fine Lyman machines in the past kind of makes me wonder just how much pressure is being exerted, how far oversize the bullet being sized is, and how hard the bullet is.

    My experience with the wonderful Lyman sizer tells me there is a distinct possibility that A) the lead is probably soft, and B) the bullet is probably oversized or C) there is a problem with the base being flat and this is cocking the bullet. Now, I'm not a good old boy nor do I want to be nor do I want to win a popularity contest like some here. I call them like I see them plain and simple. If you feel a need to chastize me I suggest that you opt for the PM capabilities of this site.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy Griz44mag's Avatar
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    No 6bg, my feathers aren't ruffled, I simply attempt to give everyone the same level of respect I give my own family. And I seriously doubt we will ever be "buddies".
    I see it this way, a man is mature enough to obtain a supply of lead, the mold for the bullet(s) he likes to shoot, a pot, a sizer, punches, lubes, dies, etc...... He made it though the smelting and casting, that's not a small task. The intelligence is there. All this, not to mention the loading equipment that very likely proceeded the casting equipment. So there has been a considerable investment in money, and very likely a considerable investment in time learning how to use it all and achieve success, that's already in the track record. The OP is obviously not a rookie at the table. He asked a question, looking for an answer to expand his understanding and knowledge of the art of creating his own perfect ammunition. He is willing to modify a 6 dollar part to gain experience and have the satisfaction of completing the task in first person, that's what it's all about. This forum is a wonderful place to come to get great advice, learn new methods and techniques and share the knowledge of those who have already surmounted these small obstacles in perfecting the art. That's what this forum is all about. Calling the man a child and being told to get someone else to do it for him because he is incapable of doing simple tasks on his own, well, that's just rude.
    Griz44Mag
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Griz44mag View Post
    No 6bg, my feathers aren't ruffled, I simply attempt to give everyone the same level of respect I give my own family. And I seriously doubt we will ever be "buddies".
    I see it this way, a man is mature enough to obtain a supply of lead, the mold for the bullet(s) he likes to shoot, a pot, a sizer, punches, lubes, dies, etc...... He made it though the smelting and casting, that's not a small task. The intelligence is there. All this, not to mention the loading equipment that very likely proceeded the casting equipment. So there has been a considerable investment in money, and very likely a considerable investment in time learning how to use it all and achieve success, that's already in the track record. The OP is obviously not a rookie at the table. He asked a question, looking for an answer to expand his understanding and knowledge of the art of creating his own perfect ammunition. He is willing to modify a 6 dollar part to gain experience and have the satisfaction of completing the task in first person, that's what it's all about. This forum is a wonderful place to come to get great advice, learn new methods and techniques and share the knowledge of those who have already surmounted these small obstacles in perfecting the art. That's what this forum is all about. Calling the man a child and being told to get someone else to do it for him because he is incapable of doing simple tasks on his own, well, that's just rude.
    I'm glad that we both have the understanding that we won't be buddies. I will disagree with your line of thinking however. Purchasing a bunch of reloading equipment doesn't make the buyer an expert or magically endow the owner with any extra intelligence or mechanical aptitude It simply means that someone now has a chance to screw up a piece of machinery that was probably working correctly before they got their little hands on it.

    I grew up learning that respect is earned not something that is an automatic given. It doesn't take a mature person to obtain a quantity of lead or to borrow a bullet mold, melting pot, and source of heat. Any 7 year old can cast a bullet with 30 seconds worth of instruction. It doesn't take a engineering degree to put a bullet in a sizer lubricator and run it thru. It does however take some experience to know how to size up a problem and solve it. I'm not saying that a $6 top punch is anything to worry about but then again would you like an unskilled person to repair your BMW or your $30K sound system? This is why I believe in trying to educate people in the proper way of evaluation of problems and proper problem solving. Hince the sandpaper and Dremel comment.

    And your right I'm just rude because I don't candy coat things.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    Grizz44mag old buddy I call them like I see them. I opted to post my two cents and unfortunately you got your fir ruffled....too bad. Unfortunately, there are some well meaning individuals here that are incapable of certain tasks. Grabbing a dremel or sandpaper (chucking the punch in a drill press) without doing something as simple as using some prussion blue and checking to see if there is an actual problem is well kind of not the proper way to do it. Beings that I have owned one of these fine Lyman machines in the past kind of makes me wonder just how much pressure is being exerted, how far oversize the bullet being sized is, and how hard the bullet is.

    My experience with the wonderful Lyman sizer tells me there is a distinct possibility that A) the lead is probably soft, and B) the bullet is probably oversized or C) there is a problem with the base being flat and this is cocking the bullet. Now, I'm not a good old boy nor do I want to be nor do I want to win a popularity contest like some here. I call them like I see them plain and simple. If you feel a need to chastize me I suggest that you opt for the PM capabilities of this site.

    Thanks for all your help.

    I checked everything you said,

    A - lead boolits is testing at 18 to 22 bhn
    B - boolits drop at .3565 to .357. Sizing die is .356
    C - this was a problem at first, my sprue plate wasn't tightened enough, I fixed this but it is still happening.

    So my solution was, instead of messing up my top punch. I bought some felt, with a sticky backing and cut a piece to fit inside the top punch.

    I know what the problem is on the top punch, on the inside rim, there is a bur that goes all the way around the inside of the top punch. So until I can send it back, I had to make due with what I had.

    Thanks again for everybody's comment.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check