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Thread: Help Me Spend My Pot Money

  1. #1
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    Question Help Me Spend My Pot Money

    I have finally reached the point of spending money on a bottom pour pot. After much internal debate, I've decided on a Master Pot from Magma. I'd rather spend my money once and, worst case, I should be able to get most of my money out of it.

    Questions:
    1) 110 or 220 volt and why? I don't have a 220 outlet available right now, but it wouldn't be a major ordeal to install.

    2) Would you add a PID to this specific pot?

    3) Assuming you would add a PID, would it be the Magma unit or an aftermarket/home built one?

    In the interest of full disclosure, I've not cast the first boolit yet. I've spent most of the year accumulating tools and supplies. I had no intention of getting into casting, just swaging, but one thing led to another and now I'm corrupted.

    Thanks for all the information on this great forum!

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master
    454PB's Avatar
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    The only advantage to 240 volts is that it allows smaller wire size. If you have a 120 volt circuit available and it is not already loaded, there's no need for 240 volts.

    As to the PID, I can't say because I've never used one.....or seen the need to have one.
    You cannot discover new oceans unless you have the courage to lose sight of the shore

  3. #3
    Boolit Master



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    240 will use less amperage than 110,I use a variact to keep my old Lyman from running up and down the temp range.

  4. #4
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    Man. From the title I thought you were selling drugs and needed a way to get rid of it.
    Phrasing is very important

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    Went with 120v and went with the installed PID-am VERY glad that I purchased it. Product is well made-with quality materials-and people that will answer questions if you have to phone them. Have had mine for two years now.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master



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    OK, I'm no electrician, but 1500 watts is 1500 watts. You will pull less amps through the individual wires but the sum total will be the same. Meaning it won't be any cheaper to run a 240 pot than a 110. That being said, I bought a 110 Magma pot 5 years ago and have used it extensively since. I ordered a 240 but they sent a 110. I talked to some electrician friends of mine and they told me if it works, use it, don't worry about 110/220 and I did for 3 years. And then while visiting family in Arizona I stopped by the Magma shop, and he told me they use the same heater band for both and gave me the wiring and instructions, and when I got home I switched it back to 220. Why? I don't know, just made me feel better, and my RCBS pot was 220 and I had wired an outlet for it, so I did it. Did it make the pot work any better? No, I can't see a bit of difference in the performance, was kinda disappointed, actually, but my friends were right, watts is watts. The only difference is that when running long sessions in 110 the cord did get slightly warm and in 220 it doesn't, so whatever that is worth. I sure wouldn't run a 220 line just to run the pot. I love my Magma and if I had the money I wold buy a second one to use for pure lead instead of using the RCBS. I loved the RCBS after I upgraded from LEE's but I love being able to cast long sessions and just keep chucking in ingots and the Magma doesn't even care. As for the built-in PID, I don't know. I built my own and I can switch it between the RCBS and the Magma so that is convenient. I do love the PID, just makes things easier to keep an eye on temp. I always used a dial guage but it faces up while casting so I can't see it all the time. Doesn't make things work any better with the PID as the Magma keeps everything hot but it is interesting to watch the temp swings and actually KNOW what is going on during long sessions. If you don't cast 2-3 potfulls every time the PID is just a nice extra but not necessary. Make sure you get both pour spouts with the pot, the single and the double.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by prsman23 View Post
    Man. From the title I thought you were selling drugs and needed a way to get rid of it.
    Phrasing is very important
    It was intentional. Got you to look, didn't it?

  8. #8
    Boolit Master


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    Thought you'd opened a business in Colorado.

    dale in Louisiana

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Oh...that kind of pot.

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I would definitely get the pid, either should work well. The pid units available from China on e-bay are 110 or 220 volts. I have built 3 so far. One works, the 2 units I got yesterday don't turn on the solid state relay. The first one I built has been in heavy service since spring with no issues.
    The advantage to the pid is a very stable lead temperature which aids in keeping the boolit weights stable.
    THe new RCBS pots are equipped with a thermostat that is set for 50 degree between the on/off/on cycles. Found this out when the thermostat went bad in my 1980s pot.
    If you decide to equip the magma pot yourself there is a video on their site showing the location of the thermocouple.

  11. #11
    Boolit Mold
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    you cast boolit guys are hipper than I thought.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master Norbrat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by leadman View Post
    One works, the 2 units I got yesterday don't turn on the solid state relay.
    Could be you got a model with an internal relay. That's what happened to me.

    Post #267 & #269in this forum http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...urnace/page14:

    "Actually, if you bought a cheap Rex C100 (likely a chinese made knock-off), it could be relay only, and won't work with an SSR. Have a read through this Brewers forum http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/rex...d-ebay-254480/ about these problems; you may be able to fix it by removing the relay in the PID and jumping the terminals. "

    and

    "I bought this one http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/110761287592 and even though the description says it has an SSR output, it didn't.

    So I also removed the relay and jumpered the pins, and now it works fine with the SSR. "

    Although I did have to switch the + and - input to the SSR as the relay feed was back to front, so to speak. I could have got around this by switching the relay jumpers on the pcb, but didn't bother as end result works fine.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
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    Guardian-The first thing that I noticed when I received my Magma w/pid installed was the quality of the materials used. It works. Very well made unit.

  14. #14
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    My reason for considering 220 was safety, not a reduction in power consumption. The lower amperage of 220 seemed it would be more amenable to the use of an extension cord. I know just enough about electricity to get power from point A to B, that's about it. I do have a 20 amp 110 outlet available, but was concerned about the "warm cord" Springfield mentioned.

    Springfield, thanks for the tips. I'll be sure to get both bottom plates.

    I'm still on the fence about the PID. I may order it without and upgrade later.

    Thanks for the input.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master



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    The nice thing about having a separate PID is, one, they are cheaper than the factory unit, and two, you can keep a spare around for when it dies and you won't have any down time. Also, if you have more than one pot you can switch it around easily. I am a big believer in spares.

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master
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    If you didn't know, the Lee Pro-4-20 has an 800 watt heating element. At 120 volts, it's pulling 6.7 amps. Assuming the cord (or extension cord) is 14 gauge, it will not heat up. If you used a very long extension cord, there could be a problem......but it would have to be VERY long.
    You cannot discover new oceans unless you have the courage to lose sight of the shore

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check