Removing tin from range scrap

[dikman]

I know this is probably the opposite of what you chaps generally want, but.....

I shoot muzzleloaders, so want the roundballs made from soft stuff. I have quite a bit of range scrap from a pistol range, where they shoot pretty well all modern stuff - centre-fire + a lot of .22. A highly accurate (!) thumbnail test shows that the ingots I made are harder than pure lead (presumably a high tin content?).

I gather, from reading here, that if the lead is left sitting (melted) for a while the tin oxidizes on the surface and can be skimmed off. So, my question is how long does it have to sit to significantly reduce the tin content? Or is it wishful thinking on my part that it will make any real difference?

[randyrat]

It will cook off with a real hot pot. I hate to see you do that when most people add Tin.

[Norbrat]

Where in South Oz are you? Anywhere near Adelaide? I'm happy to exchange soft lead for yours.

[Garyshome]

Trade it! I would trade it, If it was mine.

[btroj]

The tin isn't the problem, it is the antimony. Antimony isn't going to oxidize fast enough to remove thru long times at high heat.

Want pure lead? Buy pure lead. Trade what you have for lead pipe, cable sheathing, or lead sheet. This may not be pure but will be softer than range scrap.

[jmort]

"...the ingots I made are harder than pure lead (presumably a high tin content?)"

"The tin isn't the problem, it is the antimony"

Exactly. I doubt anyone would be fortunate enough to get a "high" tin content from range scrap. Even if you had 2% tin, you would still be right around the same BHN as "lead." Tin is your friend to a point.

http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletAlloy.htm

"Salvaged range lead can be quite the mix unless you’re familiar with the range and know that a specific type of shooting is mostly done. [1].22 lead is mostly lead, virtually no antimony, and usually about 1-2% tin. Jacketed bullet alloy composition ranges anywhere from pure lead to 5% Sb. As a very general statement, many handgun jacketed bullets have pure lead cores (almost all Noslers, almost all FMJs, and most std. velocity jacketed handgun bullets). Some have hardened cores (e.g. the Sierra 300 grain .44 Mag bullets is 5% Sb). If the range has centerfire rifle bullets, then they are commonly 3% or 5% Sb. So the bottom line is that jacketed bullets can contribute almost any hardness to bullet metal. I have read reports of shotgun slugs being from near pure lead to approximately 2-3% antimony. As with the sail boat ballast, check to see how well it casts and check its BHN, checking the weight against bullets from the same mould cast with a known alloy composition could help identify the alloy, or at least narrow it down."

[dikman]

Thanks for the info, guys. I guess tin isn't really the problem, then, and there is very little jacketed stuff (the secretary of the club told me that they don't shoot jacketed ammunition).

Norbrat, I'm at Crafers, up in the Hills. I think there's around 240 lbs. that I've melted down (with probably more to come, when I feel energetic enough to dig it out of the berms).

[sparkz]

Might be-able to find a scrap yard and swap some deals for softer stuff also,, I would keep some tho for other loads in smokeless carts.
anyway ya see it price sounds right,, Good find,,

Patrick

[10 ga]

Round balls of hard PB alloy aren't a problem. Use a thinner patch or cast a bit smaller. For REAL or Minnie bullets hard is a problem. I have routinely used COWW or harder for patched roundball. As other posters said, it's not the tin. Of course you should be able to trade "hard" for soft if ya want. 10 ga

[skeettx]

distance between Crafers and Adelaide is only 14 kilometers
Is this correct?
Mike

[dikman]

Close. 16 kms to the GPO (Post Office) is the generally accepted distance. Either way, it's not far to the CBD (basically, just down the freeway).

Sparkz, I doubt very much if scrap yards here would be interested in swapping, only selling. Also, I have no interest in getting into "modern" cartridge guns (other than maybe a .22 auto - maybe), so I'm not concerned about keeping any for later use.

10ga, at this stage I'm shooting a .45 long rifle and a .44 1858 Remington. The remmie is a bit of a concern, as if the balls are too hard they may be difficult to seat in the chambers without putting a lot of pressure on the loading lever. At least, that's how I see it.

I'm quite happy to swap for pure lead. This stuff has been melted into ingots, approx. 1 1/2 lbs. each, using angle iron moulds so it stacks nicely. I guess you could say that the hard work has been done. If I can't swap it then I'll just mix it with pure lead in the casting pot to dilute it down, seeing that I'm stuck with the antimony in it.
At least now I know there's no point wasting my time trying to reduce the tin content.

[MUSTANG]

Put a post on the Swapping and Selling section. I'll bet someone will be interested in trading.

Mustang

[btroj]

Put a post on the Swapping and Selling section. I'll bet someone will be interested in trading.

Mustang

Not unless it is a person in Oz. Cost of shipping would be killer from the states.

I don't want that range scrap. Shoot enough Aussie lead in your gun and suddenly your gun has an accent and uses words that don't make sense.

[bangerjim]

Put it on the barbie and try to cook the Sn and Sb out, but it will be difficult.

Trade it for pure with one of your fellow OZites.

G'day mate!

banger

[skeettx]

Thought Norbrat who is a few kilometers away would trade soft lead for
your harder stuff?
Did y'all not make this not happen?
Mike

[Norbrat]

Thanks for the info, guys. I guess tin isn't really the problem, then, and there is very little jacketed stuff (the secretary of the club told me that they don't shoot jacketed ammunition).

Norbrat, I'm at Crafers, up in the Hills. I think there's around 240 lbs. that I've melted down (with probably more to come, when I feel energetic enough to dig it out of the berms).

I'm in Semaphore, and have a good friend (also a shooter) in Aldgate, so arranging an exchange shouldn't be a problem.

PM me and we can sort something out. I doubt I have 240 lbs though.

Which club are you digging the berms? Surely not Hahndorf? Southern Vales? Monarto?

BTW, you best source of soft lead is probably stick on wheel weights. That's where most of mine is from as the buckets from the tyre dealers have ever greater %'s of stick ons due to so many cars having mag wheels.

[dikman]

Aussies don't have an accent, only Yanks and Poms!

Norbrat, whatever amount you want to swap is fine. It came out of the pistol club at Stirling. I'm also a member of Monarto Black Powder Club, and have got some from there but that tends to be pure lead. So far the couple of tyre dealers I've asked have said no, they save it and sell it for beer money!

[Norbrat]

Aussies don't have an accent, only Yanks and Poms!

Norbrat, whatever amount you want to swap is fine. It came out of the pistol club at Stirling. I'm also a member of Monarto Black Powder Club, and have got some from there but that tends to be pure lead. So far the couple of tyre dealers I've asked have said no, they save it and sell it for beer money!

I pay the tyre dealers, usually $20 or $30 per bucket. That's probably about what the scrap dealer pay them, so they are happy with that.

[dikman]

Ahh. So far I haven't actually paid for any lead . I'm working on a possible (limited) source of lead sheet - if it eventuates.