Has any one tried Blueing a Barrle at home??? Do you know how it works best??? Or should I even try to do it??? Thank you for your input!!
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Has any one tried Blueing a Barrle at home??? Do you know how it works best??? Or should I even try to do it??? Thank you for your input!!
Google it, this will give you a basic understanding.
Here is some good info on blueing types from Brownells http://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn/...aspx?lid=11043
...it usually doesn't. YMMV
What type of home bluing?
Hot caustic bluing? Leave it to the pros. Cold bluing, like with the Casey Birchwood stuff? It's really hard to get an even finish, the finish is not durable either. Best for just small touchups.
Rust bluing is easy to do at home, requires little in the way of equipment, and can give excellent, durable results. It takes a long time to accomplish. Most of the time is just spent waiting though, so you can be doing other things.
I just finished my first rust-bluing job, so I'm no pro. I had a little bit of a problem, I think due to me not letting it rust long enough initially, but was very happy with the results.
Lots of information here and all over the net on rust bluing.
Depends on what you use. I have used the old Neidner formula rust blueing involving nitric acid, hydrochloric acid, distilled water etc. Lots of work but gives a beautiful finish. Also have used Brownells Oxpho-Blue, which I like, and it is easy to use. Have blued, or blackened, if you prefer, guns using Precision Brand Tool Black which I got from MSC. Preparation of the metal is key to the whole process, it must be clean, and oil free.Originally Posted by Alaksa girl
Has any one tried Blueing a Barrle at home??? Do you know how it works best??? Or should I even try to do it??? Thank you for your input!!
Any of your cold bluing is garbage and best used for touch up's (if you cant figure out rust bluing). I have used every manufacture of rust bluing compounds including some from a book published in 1914. I like Mark Lee express blue. A pair of nitrile gloves, a torch, carding wheel and a pot of boiling (in my case city tap) water and I can do a 1911 frame in around an hour and change.
1. Clean and thouroughly degrease
2. Finish the metal to be blued to the desired surface finish you want (bluing doesn't hide anything). Rust Blue like a 320 or so finish.
3. Clean and thouroughly degrease
4. Put on some nitrile gloves
5. Get a pot of water boiling
6. Warm the part being blued with a torch till its just uncomfortable to hold
7. Rub express blue on in long complete strokes. (the heat will make it dry almost instantly)
8. Boil in pot of water for 10-15 min. (time is dictated by part size, you want it to reach same temp as water for at least 5 min)
9. Remove from boiling water and blow water off leaving no watermarks.
10. Brush under a carding wheel (available from brownells, basically a very fine wire wheel)
11. REPEAT from step 2
12. Keep repeating till you get the color you want (darker with more repetitions, but as some point the steel simply won't rust anymore "thats good")
13. Warm metal up with torch and oil liberally, and leave till next day. Then wipe down well with lint free absorbant cloth.
It sounds like a lot, but once you get rolling it goes by quick.
What dose YMMV stand for????
Very nice ... thanks for the input !!!
Your Mileage May Vary.
I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
The BHN Deformation Formula, and why I don't use it.
How to find and fix sizing die eccentricity problems.
Do you trust your casting thermometer?
A few musings.
I've actually had really great luck on one Mauser rifle (barrel+action) I did with brownell's Oxpho blue. I started with all parts polished out to 600 grit. Then you boil the small parts in hot soapy water. Larger parts you clean by hand. Then degrease with acetone. Repeat this several times until the parts are 100% free of grease, oil, dirt, or other contaminants. Now heat the part up with a heat gun until it's too hot to touch. Immediately hit it with a swab dipped in the bluing solution. Repeat this process as many times as necessary (I was doing between 12 and 20) to achieve the level of depth and darkness desired, blending the finish using steel wool between passes. When you are satisfied with it, slather a thick coat of Hoppe's gun oil over the entire surface and let sit for a few days, then wipe dry with a rag and apply another coat of oil before storing the part. My Mauser really turned out looking sharp with this method - super deep and glossy blue. Then again it probably took longer than hot tank chemical bluing would have.
I plan on refinishing a Model 94 I picked up and am going to try airbrushing the Birchwood & Casey Perma Blue. There's a fellow who posted online his whole process he used on his 94 and it came out real nice.
"If you could kick the person in the pants responsible for most of your trouble, you wouldn't sit for a month."
Theodore Roosevelt
Thanks I am working on blueing... I like what I am getting but it will take me a while to get it to the color I want!!! But I think it's going to work well!!!
Where did tou pick that stuff up at? I never find any in stores and cant get anyone to ship anythin like that to ak. I have a 12ga i need to reblue, although am also considering parkerizing or maybe duracoat. I have it powder coated right now but its coming off.Thanks I am working on blueing... I like what I am getting but it will take me a while to get it to the color I want!!! But I think it's going to work well!!!
A local friend surcumed to my wife's smile and gave her his left over from a recent bluing job.... I wish i had the power over guys that a nice smile brings....lol
I hear that lol. My wife could probably gdt away with robbing a bank with her smile.
Dont just say it jr... Post it... Pic is needed for verification...
Dont let your wife catch you asking for photos of other women, but you asked for it.
I just robbed that from her fb profile. She has better ones but my phone doesnt like searching through them.
I've blued reloading dies using drain cleaner and a camp stove.
Link to follow:
Visit my page at www.echoarms.com for casting, reloading, and firearms accessories as well as FFL services in Southern California.
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Visit my page at www.echoarms.com for casting, reloading, and firearms accessories as well as FFL services in Southern California.
Like my Facebook page: Echo Arms
Lol.... Yep, you were right JR.... A bank robber for sure.... Better put a real ring on her finger soon...
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