I got a six cavity Mihec mold. I was in a hurry to try it out and all the bullets were off center. Small flexes of lead got caught on the mold faces.
What is the best way to clean off for good bullets?
Thanks and have a nice holiday weekend.
Leadmelter
MI
Try wiping them off with a coarse cloth.Originally Posted by Leadmelter
If that doesn't work I use an exacto knife with a rounded tip Like a scalpel, stay away from sharp points.
Some people recommend you use a torch to melt it off. I have not had much success with that method.
Last edited by williamwaco; 08-29-2013 at 10:35 PM. Reason: spelling
First reload: .22 Hornet. 1956.
More at: http://reloadingtips.com/
"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the
government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian."
- Henry Ford
+1 on WilliamWaco's recommendation. Get it up to casting temp and wipe with a cloth or leather glove.
Do be sure not to use cloths made from man made fibers, natural fibers won't melt.
I sometimes get little build-ups of lead on the edges of the cavities. When I get ready to use it the next time, I will bring it up temp on the hot-plate and then with a paint stir stick just carefully push them off. Most of the time they will just clean off with no fuss.
Use pure mineral spirits or better yet - Eezox. The chemicals will break the lead adhesion to the metal and you can scrap them off with a razor bladeSmall flexes of lead got caught on the mold faces.
What is the best way to clean off for good bullets?
Regards
John
If it is formed to the vent lines sometimes a needle is called for. be very careful especially at the edge of the cavities. I do try to check the mold faces during casting and use a sharpened popsicle stick to remove them.
I use a lead alloy ingot and just rub the specks off as if the ingot is an eraser. this works if the mold is cold or hot.
Now if the mold was brass and the specks are "tinned" on, that's a whole nuther thang.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
YIKES!
I forgot that. That is VERY important.
First reload: .22 Hornet. 1956.
More at: http://reloadingtips.com/
"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the
government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian."
- Henry Ford
What is EEzox?
“People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf” — George Orwell
What is EEzox?
The best rust preventative you can get.
Yea Verily, and AMEN!
"When you can't make them see the light, make them feel the heat." - Ronald Reagan
"Which EEzox", I say unto you?
i use a bamboo skewer its good and pointy
and it wont hurt any mold
gets into the cracks real well
Okay, Thanks for the help on my steel moulds. Now I have a great brass mould with 'alloy tinned on' [some DA tried to preheat his mould in the casting furnace and it fell in]. Any suggestions? I have spent a week picking the alloy off with a stick and am no where near done.
Last edited by DRNurse1; 09-13-2013 at 03:09 AM.
_________________________
DRNurse1
Education is one thing you can give away freely while suffering no personal loss and likely increasing one's own knowledge.
Properly vetted source information prevents GIGO, the scourge of the internet.
I use a bamboo skewer and beeswax, to be done to a HOT mold.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
On Lee Molds (other than their 6 Cavity) I use 0000 steel wool to clean/polish them, whenever necessary. On a Mihec, I'd ask Mihec what to do.
Is this for steel or brass moulds? What effect does the beeswax have on the alloy? Regarding 'HOT mould' do you mean production hot or just hot enough to melt the beeswax (I presume the former) or something else? Thank you fr the tips/ suggestions.
@Wally: I cannot believe I did not think of that...PM to Mihec inbound and thanks, Wally.
_________________________
DRNurse1
Education is one thing you can give away freely while suffering no personal loss and likely increasing one's own knowledge.
Properly vetted source information prevents GIGO, the scourge of the internet.
My response was for "tinning" of brass molds as shown above, I'm not sure if this was the OP's problem or not? But it sure could have been. I've never seen a iron mold with tinning, but I guess it's possible. The mold needs to be hot enough to melt the alloy, the beeswax acts like a flux to de-tin the brass. A scrubbing motion is necessary...quite alot actually.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
As a last ditch effort, Separate the handle halfs and pour hot lead on the mold at the spot that is problamatic. Eventually you will get the old lead hot enough to peel off with the new lead. Try not to get it in the alignment holes.
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