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Thread: What happened?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master

    Defcon-One's Avatar
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    I think you panicked! Probably not Zinc. I'm gonna go with the guys in the know:

    What RickinTN, cbrick, GaryN, badbobgerman and geargasher said!!!!!

    I think you have your answer. Flux with Pine Sawdust, Temp a bit lower and use a thermometer. You want control, you gotta take control!

    DC-1

    PS: My favorte quote of the month, "Ahh, preemptive refusal." - PbHurler!

  2. #22
    Boolit Master

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    I would flux it well pour it into ingots , then use those to sweeten another alloy .

    Hi tin content turned mine grey once& as you was at too hi a temp & casting like mad.
    GP100man

  3. #23
    Boolit Master KYCaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 43PU View Post
    i mixed 5lbs of National Lead marked 777 with 5 lbs of Lino with 1/4 a lb of Tin

    I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but...............National Lead 777, isn't that 40/60 wiping solder?

    If that's true, your alloy is well over 20% Sn. At 750 degF, you're about 300 deg. over melting temp.

    That could explain the frosting.

    Jerry
    Buzzard's luck!! Can't kill nothin', nothin'll die!!

  4. #24
    Boolit Master in Heaven's Range onesonek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbrick View Post
    Me thinks Gear is right.

    Rick
    Well said, my thoughts too.
    Dave

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
    lwknight's Avatar
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    If it is correct hat the 777 is wiping solder you should be casting nice shiny ( tin wasting) bullets @ 540 degrees.
    Anyway, a mold too hot will make frosty regardless of pot temp.
    Sent from my PC with a keyboard and camera on it with internet too.
    Melting Stuff is FUN!
    Shooting stuff is even funner

    L W Knight

  6. #26
    Boolit Master badbob454's Avatar
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    also frosted bullets will hold the lube better just not as pretty / if 777 is high in tin as stated above ... add more lead to the mix low or slow the casting temp or timing , this will result in shiny pretty boolits
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  7. #27
    Boolit Bub


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    I use a cheapo infrared digital thermometer from harbor freight.
    I am sure there are more accurate thermometers out there however,
    I can't afford text book alloy.
    I use it as a reference only.

    Kinda a general rule of thumb type of deal.
    "The rifle is a weapon. Let there be no mistake about that. It is a tool of power, and thus dependent completely upon the moral stature of its user. It is equally useful in securing meat for the table, destroying group enemies on the battlefield, and resisting tyranny. In fact, it is the only means of resisting tyranny, since a citizenry armed with rifles simply cannot be tyrannized."

    —Jeff Cooper, The Art of the Rifle

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check