Original 1873 Stock Removal

[Speedo66]

Anybody know offhand which screws need to be taken out to remove the stock from an original 3rd series 1873?

There are 3 screws each on the top and bottom tangs, 1 large, and 2 smaller.

Also, what needs to be removed to take off the forearm?

Thanks

[Dirty30]

The screw at the back of the tang on top and bottom both need to be removed, then the buttstock should slide away from the tang. I believe the third screw is forward on the tang at the base of the hammer correct? As a note of caution, inspect the wrist of your stock carefully. These old guns will soak up a lot of oil and get spongy right there in the wrist where the stock meets the tang. If there appears to be cracks or weakness in the wrist be very careful when removing it, and re-assembling.

If it's a full rifle, the fore-stock should have a screw through the nose cap that is removed, then it should slide away. The carbine has a steel band there and I can't tell you what to do with that.

[Speedo66]

Excellent, thank you. It's the rifle, and yes, there is a small screw just behind the hammer.

[Speedo66]

The stock removal worked fine.

The forearm removal is another story. I tried removing the 2 screws on the forearm cap, and the forearm will only slide forward a little, not enough to slide past the receiver. It bumps into the piece the screws go into. I did more research and there is a procedure to remove the forearm.

After removing the 2 screws for the forearm cap, you slide the cap forward. Then you remove the screw holding the magazine tube cap, removing the cap and spring and follower inside.

Then push out the pin on the barrel band, and drop the magazine tube down. At that point the forearm should drop down and slide forward enough to remove it.

Unfortunately, I'm stuck on step two. The screw holding the magazine cap is bungled sufficiently to prohibit removal. I'm using proper screwdrivers and the present screw groove is slipping the driver enough that the screw doesn't move.

Next step is to a gunsmith to see if they can take it out without destroying the gun as I probably would.

Old guns are fun, but after approx. 124 years, enough Bozos have been at every screw to mangle most of them.

[fouronesix]

Those magazine cap screws can get pretty much rusted-in on the old originals. There are replacement screws available so no worries there. You just don't want to bugger the cap or especially the magazine tube- original split seam tubes are much harder to come by. If you can get any purchase at all in the screw slot, you could try a little heat from a torch followed by some Kroil as it cools. Then after cooling all the way down try unscrewing it. The gunsmith may try exactly that and if it doesn't work then he'll probably drill the screw and try an EZ Out or similar.

[Speedo66]

I dropped it off this evening at a local gunsmith. He said he was busy, so it would be a week and a half before he could look at it. But after a quick inspection, he seemed to think he could get it out.

[Speedo66]

Got a call this afternoon from the gunsmith, rifle was ready. Said they were able to get it out without too much trouble.

As Fouronesix said, they did exactly that. Kroil and heat.

I thought the fee was more than fair, $20. Tomorrow I'll play with it and drift out the barrel band pin. Hopefully it will allow the mag tube to drop down and release the forearm.

[missionary5155]

Greetings
In a pinch if you do not have any Kroil try some brake fluid. Have used brake fluid for barrel removals, stuck bolts and screws with good success. Yesterday working with a 1892 from 1896 the hammer bolt was rusted in. 1 hour of brake fluid soaking in and around the threads it can out fairly well.
Mike in Peru

[Speedo66]

Good tip about the brake fluid. Care should be taken though since brake fluid is known to damage auto paint. I'd be extra careful with it around a stock that has any type of finish applied to it.

[Jjed]

there is a video on youtube on how to disassemble the 1873

[Speedo66]

Argggg...... Still having problems. The magazine cap screw is out, the spring and follower are out, the magazine band pin is out, the forearm cap screws are out and cap slid forward, but the magazine tube still won't budge despite much penetrating oil.

I looked at a disassembly video, but it was animated, with the pieces magically falling off by themselves. Need to find something that takes you step by step, which I haven't found yet.

[Speedo66]

Got it!

Someone on THR suggested putting the magazine plug back in, and inserting a close fitting punch through the holes and twisting to break it loose.

I applied copious amounts of PB Blaster and slowly worked it back and forth and it finally gave way.

Lots of gunk in there, cleaned the underside of the barrel, tube, forearm, and front of the action from a 124 year accumulation.

Applied some anti-seize compound for next time.

Thanks to all for their suggestions!

[fouronesix]

Good deal! You shouldn't have any more problems with assembly or future dis-assembly- unless you wait another 124 years to clean it.

Those original split magazine tubes are fragile and you're lucky to get it wiggled out without damage. Even using a tight fitting pin through the holes can warp, bend or twist the tube. Also, the mag tube recess in the frame is likely pretty well corroded/pitted and it'd be good to get the rust brushed, sanded or scraped out. Cleaning that portion of the mag tube will be a lot easier since it is out and exposed. Sounds like the project is well on the way!