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Last edited by gunoil; 08-13-2013 at 10:34 PM.
I tested water quenching from the last coat. Did nothing to improve the hardness.
I did have some increase, about 2 BHN when baking the coated boolits for 1 hour at 375 degrees and then water quenching. Any higher temperature and the coating turned brittle and would flake off the boolit.
I am experimenting with heat treated straight linotype now but as of yesterday the hardness only increased by 5 BHN. I will check it again tomorrow and hopefully will see an additional increase. Trying to get to 35 BHN to then run tests on different baking times to see if I can keep the full hardness.
OK thanks I'll stop water dropping them then doesn't sound like the improvement is worth the trouble. I think it's going to be best to just melt these down(only 500 this time) and try again following someone's proven system.
Ausglock you seem to be the one with the most experience so I'll be using 7 to 10ml on the 2nd and 3rd coat at 5-1-10. Do you do anything different on the first coat like more acetone and less color? How long do you let the first coat dry after shaking and before baking?
My leading is from the half way point and out so I'm guessing that means the coating is failing so I must be doing something wrong when preparing the bullets.
Bullet to bore size is good pulled bullets are .357 and bore is .3555 also I'm crimping lightly in the seating station and all pulled bullet have no shaving that can be seen.
It seems like people are having such good luck with this coating and I really want it to work but I must be to close to the problem to see what I'm doing wrong. Gonna log every step and take pics of the bullets along the bullet and the smash test that way if anyone see's anything they can point it out. So far tho my bullets look nice enough they just don't work.
Last edited by Thompsoncustom; 08-14-2013 at 06:14 AM.
TC, dont mention ml's anymore would be appreciated, this is usa. FIND A TEASPOON MEASURE, i use a plastic one. Your ?'s have been answered at least 3 times. 5-1-10, shake with lid off, look at em,, you'll see change. Throw em out on dry rack fir 30 mins.. then cook 8 mins at 375. REPEAT.
Your trying to put it on like paint, think "kool-aide" looking mix, super thin...,,, after you cook it first time you'll see. repeat.
Last edited by gunoil; 08-14-2013 at 07:28 AM.
TC.
Ignore Gunslick. mls are fine
I have mixed more new colours tonight.
My process is:
Shake the colour.
Add 50mls to a bottle immediately after shaking.
Add 50mls of acetone.
Shake the Catalyst.
Add 10mls of Catalyst.
Add 50mls of Acetone.
Put the lid on and shake it all like crazy.
This is 5-1-10.
I use the same amount of mix for the first and second coats.
Wipe test and smash test after each has cooled.
I bake at 195Deg C for 12 minutes.
How hard is your alloy?
I really can't understand what would be causing you problems other than soft alloy or uncured coating..
Mix a larger quantity of coating and coat at least 100 bullets in one go.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Ok wambat breath, u better be nice some american may invent new NANO tech supercoat that only takes one coat.
Iam tellin ya , Nano is where is at and where it will be in the future. I heard someone say large ammo companies are dabbling in coatings. Well maybe hi-tek-supercoat is already involved in NANO. Yay!
'Murrica!!!
Now that that is out of my system I can add something productive.
I must agree with Popper on the leading only half the barrel issue. I'm thinking either undercooked, poorly coated, or undersized.
I plan to freeze some boolits this weekend and then do the hammer test to see if below freezing temperatures cause the coating to become brittle. It is a concern for me because we get cold winters. I'll post about it.
^^Good question. 400 on my oven knob equals 375 in the oven.
I'm thinking your not letting the coating dry enough, not baking hot enough, and/or not baking long enough.
Did you say whether or not hey pass the smash and swipe test? Are your bullets to small?
Stepping into this discussion, I am new to the HiTek coating. I've done about 6 batches so far and while I have not fired any yet, my bullets look good to me. They are evenly coated and pass the smash and acetone tests. My question is about drying time----that is to say between tumbling and baking. I have the instruction sheet that came with my kit from Bayou and all that is stated there is that the bullets should be left on the wire mesh until they are "dry to the touch". I've seen some here say 10 minutes, some say 30 minutes, some say overnight or even longer. After coating, my bullets are dry to the touch in about 2 minutes.
So what exactly can go wrong is they are baked too soon and what is the general consensus of the proper drying time?
If baked to soon the bullets will be bubbly from where the acetone gassed off. They look kind of like the moon.
For me, with no fan blowing on the boolits, I need to let them dry for a 1/2 hour. The only reason I let them dry overnight or longer is because I only bake on the weekends, but I'll cast and coat (1st coat) throughout the week.
That's the way I'm going to go about the process. LL, what oven/toaster are you using? I have everything, just need the oven.
I have the Wal-Mart Black&Decker el-cheapo convection oven. Looks like they are pretty hit or miss in reaching the correct temp. Mine hits 375 easy, holds that temp pretty well (Fluctuates between 368 and 380 degrees), and works as it should.
When I first bought it I was concerned about being able to bake enoough boolits to keep up since it is such a small oven. I bake about 100 38 specials and about 50-75 45 acp bullets at a time. It actually goes very quickly as you piddle in the garage while baking.
I can easily get 1,000 bullets baked in a day with out feeling rushed at all.
When the bullets are touch dry, feel them. They will feel cold. This is the cooling effect Acetone has on the metal. this means that there is moisture (not water) under the coating.
This is why I leave for at least 10 minutes then warm with a hair dryer before baking. Or leave for 1/2 hour (no hair dryer) or even leave for 24 hour or overnight if I don't get to bake them that day.
The commercial casters will leave coated and unbaked bullets for up to a week depending on their production schedule.
Last night, I placed 4 pieces of 1"dia steel tubing, 1" high spacers on the top of my oven and placed the next tray to bake on this to pre-warm the bullets. each tray holds approx 250 bullets. with a 12 minute bake time, the tray on top was just able to be picked up with bare hands and placed into oven without burning my hands. The bullets were nice and warm and the oven didn't loose much temp trying to heat the bullets up to curing temp.
I coated with the new red/copper without metallic ingredients. It looks just like the old red/copper. Just not as sparkly and more idiot proof for the shake and mix process. I used the new experimental 3-extreme Catalyst for this 5-1-10 mix. After 2 coats and wipe and smash tested. I tried sizing. The bullets coated were Lee 358 158gr RNF. I sized them to .356 with only 2 fingers on the little lee C press handle to push the bullet through the sizer. nice and easy sizing.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
All this is " SIMPLE " ???
It is actually very simple. Much more simple than the 877 posts would lead you to believe!! I can get a couple thousand boolits baked in a weekend without rushing. While some are baking, I'm sizing or doing something else.
Not only is it simple, but it is CLEAN in the reloading process. No melting lube to fill resevoirs, no lubing bullets and praying they don't stick together in their storage bins, no worrying if the lube will melt off or degrade, no gunked up sizing dies, no sticky fingers, no wiping the loaded rounds off after loading, no lube build up on the firearm when firing, no smoke.
So in conclusion: Screw traditional lubes.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |