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Thread: Accurate mold problem

  1. 08-02-2013, 12:38 AM #41
    Greg G
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    A fix for that mold would be to remove the sprue plate screw and drill all the way through and tap from the sprue plate side for an allen head set screw that would go in first under the sprue plate screw. You'd have to put it in upside down so the allen wrench could be inserted from the other side of the block. Once the sprue plate is adjusted tighten the set screw down. It won't damage the threads because it will be against the tip of the sprue plate screw. After the threads are cut for the new set screw the threads would have to repaired for the sprue plate screw of course. Better to do it after drilling and tapping the new set screw threads.

    Does that make sense without pics?

    I don't use loctite on the set screws because it loosens before the mold is up to temp.
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  2. 08-02-2013, 03:11 PM #42
    Pooch
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    Mountain Molds gives the option of a screw or stud & locknut. I really prefer the stud & locknut.
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  3. 08-07-2013, 12:09 PM #43
    NVScouter
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    Why did you bother to bring this back from the dead AKA 11:11:2012?

    Quote Originally Posted by bigboredad View Post
    So why do you continue to whine about it. After the way you have been on here I wouldn't blame Tom for blowing you off which I see he did not do
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  4. 08-07-2013, 12:40 PM #44
    tomme boy
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    The OP was winning about this on another post.
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  5. 08-07-2013, 01:05 PM #45
    NVScouter
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    Gotcha!
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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check