Old Mauser Barrel Cleaning

[STP22]

Bore foam works and reduces the scrubbing. I fill the bores with foam, then place a folded paper towel on the floor and stand the muzzles down down on the towel and wait overnight...when the blue stops on the towels, I look for the towel stain to turn from black to gray. (It may require multiple "soak cycles".) When the the gray color appears, it`s time to scrub and then peek thru the bore. Often, it appears to be as good as it`s likely to get.

YMMV

Regards,

Scott

[DanM]

I recently used Wipe Out to clean a really trashed Hakim bore. Took many apps over a period of four days leaving it in overnight and then another app thru the day. The first day, I did not wait so long between apps, and that was likely a waste of foam. Took 4-5 apps just to get thru the surface crud and down to the copper. Then the patches started turning blue. Finally the patches came out clean. The stuff is not as magical as some folks claim, but does work. Bore would probably just squeak out a 'very good' rating now with some nice shine on the lands and some roughness in the grooves. Used most of a small can on one rifle. BTW, don't let it get on your wood....DanM

Now that I think about it, four days to clean a nasty Hakim bore is really pretty good results. Let the foam do the work. Would use the stuff again if needed.

[10x]

Simple household ammonia will do the trick.
It dissolves copper, grease, and will not corrode iron or steel.
do not use a bronze brush as it will dissolve it too.

I have used a dilute ammonia solution in hot water to clean oil out of oil soaked stocks. It will take off an oil finish...

[Nickle]

Ammonia will hurt steel barrels if left in too long.

Just keep the exposure short, a few minutes, and don't let it dry on it's own. Household ammonia is fairly weak. Sweet's 7.62 Solvent has a fair amount of ammonia, stronger than household strength and does a fair job of cleaning copper fouling out. I haven't seen anything yet that cleans copper fouling out that's better than ammonia, and does less damage.

So, consider it a "necessary evil" and less harmful than any alternatives.

[10x]

Ammonia will hurt steel barrels if left in too long.

Just keep the exposure short, a few minutes, and don't let it dry on it's own. Household ammonia is fairly weak. Sweet's 7.62 Solvent has a fair amount of ammonia, stronger than household strength and does a fair job of cleaning copper fouling out. I haven't seen anything yet that cleans copper fouling out that's better than ammonia, and does less damage.

So, consider it a "necessary evil" and less harmful than any alternatives.

1) Ammonia by itself will not damage iron or steel. It will remove any protective coating of oil and leave the surface to oxidize (rust) after it drys.
That is why it is so important to rinse with hot water, dry with a patch, and get a protective layer of oil over the metal to keep oxygen away from the metal.

2) Household ammonia is one of the best copper and fouling cleaners there is. Just make sure that you do not use it to clean an oil finish stock or it will take that oil off too.

There is a sequence to cleaning with ammonia - or any cleaner that leaves the metal exposed to air. That sequence includes sealing the metal with a rust inhibitor (gun oil) before it sits for too long.

[Nickle]

Yeah, I think I'm well aware of that.

My point wasn't to use ammonia based solvents, just to use them carefully, and not leave the ammonia in the bore for extended periods.

I've seen too many barrels wrecked by using some pretty stupid methods. I've seen so many folks that worshiped J-B bore paste, and would use it to remove copper fouling. Doesn't do the rifling any justice.

Now, remember, I use to be a match shooter, going back to it. That doesn't make me any smarter, but it does mean my standards are different, usually much higher than many folk's are. It also means I've probably seen some things many of you haven't.

By the way, you don't have to rinse with water, if you're using Sweet's. If you want to dispute that, you'll find yourself arguing with a whole lot of benchrest shooters that used to routinely use Sweet's to remove any copper fouling.

Used to use a wet patch with Sweet's, followed by a dry patch, 5 passes with Shooter's Choice on a bronze brush (usually from Hart's, bronze core), followed by a dry patch, then 5 more passes with the Shooter's Choice and the bronze brush then 3 dry patches. That's after 6-10 shots, basically, after each relay. If you think it didn't work, some mighty small groups were made using this method, in the vicinity of under 1/4 MOA was normal.

[10x]

Yeah, I think I'm well aware of that.

My point wasn't to use ammonia based solvents, just to use them carefully, and not leave the ammonia in the bore for extended periods.

I've seen too many barrels wrecked by using some pretty stupid methods. I've seen so many folks that worshiped J-B bore paste, and would use it to remove copper fouling. Doesn't do the rifling any justice.

Now, remember, I use to be a match shooter, going back to it. That doesn't make me any smarter, but it does mean my standards are different, usually much higher than many folk's are. It also means I've probably seen some things many of you haven't.

By the way, you don't have to rinse with water, if you're using Sweet's. If you want to dispute that, you'll find yourself arguing with a whole lot of benchrest shooters that used to routinely use Sweet's to remove any copper fouling.

Used to use a wet patch with Sweet's, followed by a dry patch, 5 passes with Shooter's Choice on a bronze brush (usually from Hart's, bronze core), followed by a dry patch, then 5 more passes with the Shooter's Choice and the bronze brush then 3 dry patches. That's after 6-10 shots, basically, after each relay. If you think it didn't work, some mighty small groups were made using this method, in the vicinity of under 1/4 MOA was normal.

I use household ammonia to take out copper fouling. It is the least expensive and works extremely well. Household ammonia also removes any oil. The reason I rinse with hot water is so the metal dries faster after a patch is run through the bore. The protective layer of oil to stop rusting is applied as soon as possible.
I used to use Sweets - it seems to have a rust inhibitor in it.

I only use ammonia once or twice on a bore once I start shooting cast bullets out of the gun. The only time I will clean with ammonia is if I shoot a copper jacket through the bore and on some guns that is either never or very seldom.
It is not the ammonia that is the problem for an extended period. It is the oxygen that reaches the metal when the ammonia dissolves the copper, fouling, and oil.
I have had some guns go from a 6" inch group down to less than 2" after cleaning with household ammonia. And after getting all of the fouling and crud out of some bores they looked like a sewer pipe. And I have had some guns where a good cleaning of the bore made no difference in group size.

Every one has their own cleaning routine that works for them.

[Lead Fred]

I bought a can of those years ago at a gun show.
It takes black fuzzy bores, turns them shiny silver.

WEAR A MASK & GLOVE

I got sick as ship using it the first time. I now use a M17 mask.

http://omegacrossroads.com/GunCabine.../corrosive.htm

[725]

I use janitorial strength ammonia (10%) from the hardware store. Use it, wipe it, and oil it. Never a problem.