Controlling or dealing with lead splatter

[kdiver58]

I am in the process of guilding the area right in front of my garage with range lead .. Not on purpose .. it's just happening .

What if anything do you put down to keep from metal plating your concrete ? Chiseling it off is getting to be a pain .

[Hawkeye45]

Any of the drips that I made on my concrete has come up easily with hosing it down a couple of times then using a stiff garage broom. Have a lot of experience with doing that. LOL

Mr. Ed

[fredj338]

Take a good size sheet of cardboard & cover it w/ alum foil, tape it to the back. Put that down under your pot.

[dragon813gt]

[leeggen]

All you have to do is lay a sheet of luan plywood down, or if you want get a bag of sand box sand and sprinkle it around your smelt area, then just sweep it up.
CD in TN

[williamwaco]

I use the large sheets of cardboard from cut up boxes.

Foil seems like a really good idea since it wouldn't stick but I am WAY too tight for that.

I just throw it away and get new boxes occasionally.

[SODAPOPMG]

look no further than the auto parts stores
look for the garage floor drip pan it's about 3 1/2 x 5 foot made out of sheet metal with a rolled edge

[kdiver58]

You guys rock !!

[Springfield]

I have 2 drips pans I use when smelting and another that is right in front of my casting pot. Lead just doesn't stick to it.

[remy3424]

Nice drip pan dragon...I will be "blocking-up" my pot in my next session wheel-weight melt-down. When casting I have my Lee bottom pour in a "brownie-pan" or whatever they are called, about 18"x24"x1", open the spruce over it also to catch all the lead, except the boolits. I am sure I saw that somewhere here once.

[Iron Mike Golf]

I use a welder's blanket from HF under my pot.

[D Crockett]

the best thing I found and mine were free is the tin sheet that you use on roofs I lay 3 of the 10 ft sheets down make all the mess you want and just sweep it up at the end of the smelting job not using them just slid them under the house it can not get any easer than that D Crockett

[Mal Paso]

look no further than the auto parts stores
look for the garage floor drip pan it's about 3 1/2 x 5 foot made out of sheet metal with a rolled edge

Very Cool! I use a piece of 20 ga Galvanized Steel from the local plumbing wholesaler but I think it was originally 10 feet long.

One caution about Cinder Block as I've seen a lot of it under smelting equipment. It's not the same as concrete and can fail suddenly under load. Block walls get almost all their strength from the concrete poured inside, the block itself is fragile.

[shadowcaster]

One caution about Cinder Block as I've seen a lot of it under smelting equipment. It's not the same as concrete and can fail suddenly under load. Block walls get almost all their strength from the concrete poured inside, the block itself is fragile.

This is true.. but to use them on there own, you get the most strength when they are used with the holes in the up and down position, and not sideways like in the pic above.

Shad

[MaryB]

I have never seen the block filled when doing a foundation other than one here and there to hold the rebar in place. as long as it is standing up it is strong.

[dragon813gt]

Block foundations are almost never filled. And I realize they don't have as much strength the way I have them stacked. But they get inspected before every use. I've never seen a cinderblock just suddenly fail w/out showing cracking fist. I also make sure the pot legs are overtop of the webs. Unlike in the pics which was from the first time setting it up.

[Spruce]

Wal-Mart also has garage drip pans, and they work very well. Roof flashing can be bent for a three sided splash guard and wind break around your pot.

[Mal Paso]

I have never seen the block filled when doing a foundation other than one here and there to hold the rebar in place. as long as it is standing up it is strong.

I haven't seen any block wall that wasn't fully "grouted" (filled) in the last 25 years but we have earthquakes here.

I just think many people have misconceptions as to how strong they are. My first experience, I backed my uncle's little Cub tractor over one used as a wheel chock and turned it to cinders. I've never seen a job site where there wasn't a pile of block broken from handling. It doesn't have anywhere near the strength of poured concrete but looks similar to many people.

[Airman Basic]

So, why not fill the holes with concrete if it makes you feel safer?

[Dusty Bannister]

I used the concrete blocks set in their normal positions to raise the pot so I would not have to stoop with my face over the pot. The stand is two blocks high, with the smooth sides and holes up and down. On top of that is a layer of 2x8 one direction, and another layer of 2 x 8 running the other direction. The support is adequate for my needs as I seldom exceed 60 pound batches for smelting or blending alloys. The top of the pot is about level with the top of the bench so pouring is not so tireing. Laid up dry, I can move the blocks and stand where ever I choose. I would rather not use a drip pan due to the trip hazard if one needs to move away from the burner quickly. Cheap plywood, underlayment or cardboard is sufficient to keep the mess under control. Be safe.
Dusty


Dusty