As far as hulls go it would be my personal suggestion that you develop a chart of "loading suggestions" for use with straight walled hulls and for Remington single piece compression formed hulls (almost always 2-3/4" length with rare exceptions).
I base that upon my experience with loading primarily full bore slugs and wad-slugs and a few sabot slugs (using home-made sabots formed from rolled brown paper tubes a process which does work but requires and incredible amount of time, effort, and patience).
Long story short, if you list loads in a three point charge format of "Min - Start - Max" by powder, projectile weight, primer type, and shell length with a known wad column set-up you can pretty much cover the entire variety of straight walled shells with just one listing.
For example I could list the following in good confidence as "loading suggestions" for the AM#73-700S slug for 12ga (this slug is for rifled barrel slug-guns don't shoot in a choked smooth bore gun):
Straight Walled 3" length 12ga. Hull:
~ Lead slug cast from AM#73-700S mold.
~ Wad Column Consisting of Fed-12S4 wad with petals cut off + as many 12ga. Nitro Cards as necessary to bring slug up to correct height for crimping placed between top of plastic wad over powder and bottom of slug.
~ Fold Crimp or 1/8"-1/4" Deep Roll Crimp.
----- Steel Powder, Magnum Primer . . . . . . . . . . . . . Min = 38gr. . . Start = 40gr. . . Max = 45gr.
----- Blue Dot Powder, Magnum Primer . . . . . . . . . . .Min = 26gr. . . Start = 33gr. . . Max = 36gr.
----- Blue Dot Powder, Non-Magnum Primer . . . . . . . Min = 28gr. . . Start = 35gr. . . Max = 38gr.
----- IMR-4756 Powder, Magnum Primer . . . . . . . . . .Min = 25gr. . . Start = 29gr. . . Max = 33gr.
----- IMR-4756 Powder, Non-Magnum Primer . . . . . . Min = 25gr. . . Start = 30gr. . . Max = 35gr.
----- HS-6 Powder, Magnum Primer . . . . . . . . . . . . . Min = 25gr. . . Start = 30gr. . . Max = 32gr.
----- HS-6 Powder, Non-Magnum Primer . . . . . . . . . .Min = 27gr. . . Start = 32gr. . . Max = 34gr.
----- LongShot Powder, Magnum Primer . . . . . . . . . . Min = 24gr. . . Start = 28gr. . . Max = 30gr.
----- LongShot Powder, Non-Magnum Primer . . . . . . .Min = 26gr. . . Start = 29gr. . . Max = 32gr.
And from me experience and running a bunch of pressure traces on such loads I can be reasonably confident that those are the numbers that will work with that kind of a wad column with that weight of full bore diameter cast lead slug in just about any straight walled hull. Obviously not every straight walled hull will be able to be worked up to a Max load but everything should work find at the Start load level and can be adjusted from there. So long as you don't load hotter then the "Max" you shouldn't get dangerously high pressure loads that could blow up your gun in your face and so long as you don't go below the "Min" you shouldn't have any bloopers and a "Start" load generally works out to be a decent load even if you don't work it a little to tune it to your gun by adjusting the charge up or down a grain or two.
A similar chart can be made up from my notes for that slug with the same kind of wad-column in Remington single piece compression formed 2-3/4" hulls. The charges will just be quite a bit lower due to the very tight initual gas seal that is formed from forcing the full diameter gas seal on the bottom of the Federal wad into the undersize tapered bottom of the Remington shell and the resulting loads won't be as powerful but they do have one advantage. Namely that when combined with a Magnum primer they make excellent cold and fowl weather loads that will continue to produce uniform ballistics well below zero when other loads may fail to even fire when the hammer falls much less maintain uniform balistics (I've personally tested their reliability down to a about -40 degrees) and are nearly immune from moisture and can even take a dunking in the creek and still fire just fine.
In any case, if you stick to offering loading suggestion for just two hull categories namely straight walled hulls as a universal group and the Remington compression formed hulls as a second group you give the loader a lot of options while keeping things reasonably simple. I divide up the straight walled hulls by length and make up two charts for the Remington shells one as maximum power cold/fowl weather loads and the other as low power plinker loads. You can always put a load for a shorter shell in a longer hull by adding more nitro cards as spacers but putting a load for a longer hull in a shorter one by using less spacers isn't advisable since there are slightly lower pressure tolerances for the shorter shells and removing nitro card spacers in and of itself increases the pressure levels (nitro cards do have some cushioning effect and under 10-K pressures they actually squish down to nearly half their normal thickness, I've tested them with a hydro-ram press).
Anyway that is how I have narrowed things down for keeping track of all my own load development and how I structure the information to share with others. As always I do include a small fudge factor towards the lower end. If for example I know that a load develops full maximum chamber pressures according to my pressure trace equipment with a 42 grain charge of a particular powder and the loads give good stable ignition all the way down to 26 grains and you start getting bloopers below that and I get good consistent accuracy in the 32 to 38 grain charge range. Then the numbers I'm going to share are going to be . . . . . Min = 28gr. . . Start = 34gr. . . Max = 40gr. Basically, fudging the numbers slightly on both the top and bottom end and giving you a start number that is inside the sweet spot I got for accuracy but towards the bottom of that sweet spot.
Anyway, that is how I choose to share my "loading suggestions" and how I structure them. YMMV
As to pictures, I do like all of the ones you post but I personally prefer diagrams I draw up in MsPaint since I feel that for communication of raw concept information they can do a better job sometimes then pictures which can be distracting. This for example being a diagram I drew up to show what a straight walled hull is and how it can very but they all work pretty much about the same so long as you can adjust the wad-column by using different numbers of nitro cards to compensate for how different base wads take up more or less space: