Reloading EverythingTitan ReloadingSnyders JerkyRepackbox
MidSouth Shooters SupplyLee PrecisionLoad DataInline Fabrication
RotoMetals2 Wideners
Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: Can anyone help

  1. #1
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    89

    Can anyone help

    can anyone tell me what i am doin wrong??

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMAG1152.jpg 
Views:	45 
Size:	24.5 KB 
ID:	70957

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	100MEDIA_IMAG1153.jpg 
Views:	34 
Size:	20.8 KB 
ID:	70958

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Colorado Springs, Colorado
    Posts
    2,090
    Yes. More info please
    Common sense Gun Safety . . .

    Is taught at the Range!

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

    imashooter2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    7,937
    Most likely a cold or dirty mold.

  4. #4
    Boolit Bub

    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    53
    Mold is too cold would be my first answer, oil in mold could cause it also. I use a hot plate to rest the molds on to keep them up to temp, that corrected my wrinkles.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    wallenba's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    S. E. Michigan
    Posts
    2,695
    Mold, and alloy not hot enough. You need to get a thermometer for your pot. Probably you are trying to cast as soon as the alloy is melted. You have to get it to 700-850+ degrees, enough so that the alloy does not begin to set up the instant it leaves the pot. A mold not hot enough will cool and set the alloy in a non uniform way. That creates the wrinkles you see. It must remain in a molten state all the way through the pour process. Then give it time enough to set up before moving the mold, so that it can't move around in the mold while it is still molten. A cheap hot plate can be used to prewarm the mold.
    Dutch

    "The future ain't what it used to be".
    -Yogi Berra.

  6. #6
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    89
    ok more info, its a Lee 6 cavity mold brand new out of box, i cleaned it before use. i could not fit th corner of it into the mold pot like the lee video shows so i set it up on top of the pot for about 5 min, used beeswax where i was told to and used a match to oxodize the bullet mold cavities. casted around 100 bullets all came out this way.

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

    imashooter2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    7,937
    Mold too cold. I set my mold on top of the pot when I plug it in.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Peace River, Alberta
    Posts
    2,130
    Wrinkled bullets can indicate a) metal too cold b) mold too cold c) oil in the cavity - or any combination, or all three

    I would scrub the mold clean with white ( camp stove naptha) and dry it with an air hose.

    1) when you smoke the cavity (cavities) do this when a the mold is cold. make sure you use a hardwood splinter. Sometimes matches, both wood and paper, will have wax in them. When smoking a mold, less smoke is better than a black sooty mold. Do not use a candle to smoke a mold

    2) when you lube the points on a mold it is best to do this on a hot mold with a bullet in the cavity , cast 4-5 bullets, then lube before you drop the bullet.

    3) it is extremely important to have the alloy temperature high enough so the mould fills.

    Just a note, an oily mold will sometimes give wrinkles in the same pattern. Cold metal or a cold mold will give rounded edges where there should be sharp edges.
    The sprue should take a slow count to between 8 and 10 to harden when the mold is at the best casting temperature
    also a larger sprue is better than a smaller sprue.
    Go now and pour yourself a hot one...

  9. #9
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    34
    I usually just dip the corner of the lee six banger into the lead pot and hold it there for about 15 seconds or until the lead that adhered to the corner of the mold remelts. That will get the first four
    cavities hot enough to make good bullets. The two cavities closest to you will heat up after 5 to 10
    casting cycles.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    British Columbia
    Posts
    500
    If you have a small hot plate pre-heat your mould on it. Melt has to be hot enough to stay liquid while it fills out in the mould.Mould has to be hot enough to allow that.

    No hot plate, cant get mould in pot? Get melt to about 750-850 and cast until the mould gains enough heat to let the metal fill out. Just dump the rejects into the remelt pile. May take a dozen or more pours until the mould is warm enough.

    Once the mould is up to operating temps. you may have to reduce pot setting a bit until you can establish a smooth casting rythm. Watch your fill out and act accordingly.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    2,377
    I preheat my molds on my gas burning stove in the kitchen . The spruw puddle on top should stay liquid for three or four seconds before it starts to harden, then you know your mold is up to temp .

  12. #12
    Boolit Master




    41 mag fan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    The Cross Roads Of America State
    Posts
    2,695
    Seems like most have covered the bare facts here on getting your mold up to temp.

    I don't know about going anything over 750* on your melt as this will start burning out any tin you have in it.
    But either/ or you use a hotplate, or set the corner of the mold in the melt to preheat, once you start casting, cast fast. 3-4 casts/minute, don't look at them as in this time your molds will loose heat. As quick as you can refill do, maybe let the casts set a sec or 2 in mold after breaking sprue, as they will still transfer heat to the mold. Pour a big sprue puddle on top of the sprue plate as this will help with base fillout and get your sprue plate up to temp. 6 seconds to solidify on sprue is optimum time range.

    You'll know when your mold is up to temp if after 8-10 casts they start coming out filled out. In that time, if they come out shiny and then start turning to a grainy looking texture on them, your mold is too hot.
    That's when you can back off on the speed and build a cadence or rythym.

    On all my molds, I run my pot at 700*, since I have a shop with a/c and a vent over my pots. If I cast in my garage door in the summer, I can get away with 650-675*.
    When my molds come up to temp, I establish a rythym, I might cast 2 sets real quick back to back, then stop and leave my mold open for about 10 seconds, and i'll watch my casts to see if they stay shiny or start to turn grainy.
    If grainy looking finish, I'll slow down more, leave my molds open longer, maybe 15 seconds. If they stay shiny, then I will start casting again, maybe cast 2 back to back, leave mold open count of 10 , cast another, leave mold open for 5 or 10.

    I'll know when I got the ultimate rythym, as my casts will fall out. Sometimes it takes a little shake, but most often they fall out. If they start to stick, i'll speed up, no waiting between casts, for 3 or 4 casts, then start backing off again. If my sprue starts taking longer than 6 sec to solidify but my molds still cool, I'll keep mold closed, leave sprue plate open for 5 -10 sec to cool down, then start again.
    You'll know you got the ultimate rythym going, when your casts fall out as soon as you start to open the mold. Sometimes it gets to the point of irritating as they fall quicker than I can get my mold open, causing dings on them.

    Another way I can tell if my molds are not up to par, is thru my Lyman furnace. I like refilling at 1/2-1/3 pot, my casts will start sticking in my molds at these levels, letting me know to either check my rythym or check my pot level.
    Good luck and enjoy your casting adventures!

  13. #13
    Boolit Bub
    treadwm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    62
    Looks like you got lots of good info here. I ran into the same problem at first. Here's the thread covering that. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...try-at-casting

    For me, 95% of the time the problem is mold not hot enough. Period. Find a way to get the mold temp up that works for you. I happen to use an electric skillet that I "borrowed" from the wife. I set it to 400deg and let the mold get toasty.

    Your pot temp never needs to be over 700. Isn't good for the lead and it didn't help a bit with the cool mold problem. Keep at it and you'll get there. By my 3rd attempt it was going very well.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check