Ok what are you guys using for lube on your molds? Handles, pins, etc. I've been using stick alox on the alignment pins etc but there HAS GOT to be something better.
Thanks in advance.
Copper
Ok what are you guys using for lube on your molds? Handles, pins, etc. I've been using stick alox on the alignment pins etc but there HAS GOT to be something better.
Thanks in advance.
Copper
Copper75
"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing." (Edmund Burke)
Paraffin - it is an alkaline and leaves no residue...there HAS GOT to be something better.
Regards
John
Bullplate mold lube, available from Bullshop on this site. A little last a looong time!
I use tungsten disulphide (powder) mixed into a light grease (SuperLube). Spread it on the top, the mold faces and under the sprue cutter. For some reason the bullets drop out easier. Coating the bottom and outsides keeps the alloy from sticking when initially dipping the corner of the mould to warm it up.
trk
aka Cat Whisperer
Chief of Smoke, Pulaski Coehorn Works and Skunk Works
N 37.05224 W 80.78133 (front door +/- 15 feet)
I like antiseize apllied using Q-tip. Most any autoparts store carries antiseize.
2 stroke oil. I use the synthetic. Very sparingly applied with a Q tip
How much bullplate is too much? How do you apply it? I mean, with a q-tip, ok, but, should I see a lube film on the bottom of the sprue plate or is that too much? How often do I reapply? It seems like the stuff burns off very quickly.
A good comparison that I have found is think about how you oil a cast iron pan after cleaning. You put a little oil in and smear it around with a paper towel, then use another paper towel to wipe out as much as you can. It doesn't look wet, but looks shiny. Do the same with the mold, but use a q-tip to apply and wipe off the Bullplate.
Bullplate!
Do a search for the instructions for use they are here on the site.
For fine firearms and shooting requisites visit my Web Site by clicking the link below:
Pukka Bundhooks
this might be a dumb question. But why do you need to lube a mold?
I believe it helps so the top of the mold is not gaulled (sp?) by the sprew plate.
Some feel it helps the bullets drop out also.
My personal experience is that I never needed it because I always had the sprew plate with enough clearance so that it didn't scrape the top of the mold.
With the Mark IV the bullets drop out effortlessly and the sprew plate doesn't need to be run excessively tight.
It also helps prevent wear on the alignment pins. I use a q-tip that is already damp with Bullplate from previous casting sessions. It leaves a faint film on the surface of the mould and sprue plate.
It is easy to re-lube the top f the mould as needed during the casting session.
Caliper slide silicone dielectric grease also works good.
As has been said lubing the mould stops sprue galling and alignment pin wear especially on aluminium moulds, where steel and aluminium meet steel will always win. It also means that if you cut the sprue plate whilst the alloy is still fluid it stops the lead smearing.
I never lube cavities to help boolits drop, if they need help dropping then I find the mechanical problem that is hanging them up and fix it. Mind you some people swear by Kroiling the cavities but it has never worked for me.
For fine firearms and shooting requisites visit my Web Site by clicking the link below:
Pukka Bundhooks
LBT's mold lube - comes in pencil size sticks.
Grouch
Bullplate. Use it for the same reason oil is always used, to cut down on wear and make things move easier.It also keeps lead from sticking to the flat surfaces to eliminate galling and ruining the aluminum moulds. Helps keep down finning on the base of the bullets. Not so important with steel moulds, just keeps them working smoother. Of course you can get by without it but if you want your LEE molds to last through 40,000 bullets you are going to have to use something. Bullplate also doesn't build up like most other lubricants, keeps things looking nicer and cuts down on cleanings. Synthetic 2-stroke oil works almost as well. Almost.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |