Seating die clogging up

[PuppetZ]

Hi everyone, I figured I'd ask for advice here. I have a problem with my 45 ACP seating die clogging up real bad with lube. I use a modified 45/45/10 recipe. Modified because I couldn't locate any JPW up here and finally settled on using plain beewax. Thing is the stuff get left on the seating plug and it change the COAL quite a bit over the course of a session. The lube seem to be doing a good job otherwise in the barrel.

I figured that adding some harder kind of wax might keep the lube from sticking to the die. Maybe some parafin? Or carnuba perhaps? Or I could simply trash the whole batch and make new lube with another brand of wood wax. Any thoughts are welcomed.

Thanks

[runfiverun]

anytime you put stuff all over a boolit it goes all over everything else it touches.
look in the end of your chamber.

[cajun shooter]

Plain BW is not going to add everything that JPW would. Making your own lube is easy and then again it may be the hardest thing you ever try to do. Lube recipes are the same thing as cooking or baking. You can't use a recipe that tells you to use condensed milk and you decide to use water. The end product will be nothing like it is supposed to be.
I suggest you go to the hundreds of lube recipes on this site and start with one that you are able to purchase the supplies for.
I see you are in Canada and I'm not sure if you have any access to the Bullplate lube sold by Bullshop. If you mix it with plain BW it makes a excellent lube called Speed Green. There are several others that will work also.
Making your own lube is a lot of fun but it is sometimes easier for many reasons to just purchase lube that is for sale on several different sites. Later David

[fcvan]

When I first started loading 45 ACP I had a similar issue. I use Lee dies and a Lyman 450 lube/sizer. I found that belling the case mouth just a hair larger than the boolit base helped eliminate lube working its way up and into the seating stem.

I found the problem out when I loaned my equipment to a buddy and he let the expander die get out of adjustment. There was so much gunk and lube the boolits were seating too deep and wouldn't feed in his 1911 reliably. Fortunately, the loads weren't hot and so they could be fired rather than just pulled. We shot them up and I showed him how to reset properly and he learned to keep a closer eye on the equipment. He soon bought his own gear and neither he or I had future problems.

[jsheyn]

I second fcvan...also are you pushing your bullet to deep into the sizing die???

You didn't mention what lube sizer your using but most should have a depth adjustment

[mdi]

Like RFR said, anything on your bullet can transfer to the seating die. Dip lube and set the bullets on their base, keeps nose clean and no transfer to seating die. Or tumble lube and set the bullets on their base so excess lube can run down the sides and off the nose. Or just wipe their little noses off as you put them in the case...

[nicholst55]

Buy a Dillon seating die. They disassemble quickly and easily for cleaning; they even hold their adjustment once reassembled.

[garym1a2]

Seat at seperate stage than crimp and than just clean it every so often and resetup.

[gunoil]

alcohol and goof-off. brush and q-tips.

[canyon-ghost]

I use RCBS dies and Carnuba Red. Every 25 or so, I check the seating die. I unscrew it, shoot it full of Rem Oil and clean it out with Q-tips. It's just one of those things you need to do, like re-zeroing the scale every 20-25 rounds. It happens with cast bullets no matter what you do. It's better to have a work ethic than to make bad ammo.

Good Luck,
Ron

[mongo]

I use Q tips and a little Hoppes every 100 or so rounds.

[DLCTEX]

I find that most people do the same as I did when first tumble lubing and use too much. I thought I needed to fill the groves at least some. NOT! Warm the boolits and lube, thin the lube if necessary to apply a light coat. Just enough to see a color change is enough. Second coat after sizing, then again only if leading occurs.