"the Reason for reinventing the wheel is I We dont wish to purchase it from you or your buddy?"
That does not leave you very many members here to buy from.
Lafaun
"the Reason for reinventing the wheel is I We dont wish to purchase it from you or your buddy?"
That does not leave you very many members here to buy from.
Lafaun
Just staying at home and playing with multi-color boolits.
I am not suggesting any one NOT BUY FROM ANYONE. I certainly will buy from Randy Rat if I need a component and he has it for sale and would suggest that anyone do the same. sometimes we make stuff because we just want to. the same for cast boolit lube, why make it when we can buy it from Randy Rat, Jakes, RCBS, Lyman and countless others. Why Swage boolits when we can buy them from Speer , Hornady, Sierra and countless others, Why not reinvent the wheel.
I have swaged and cast several thousand Boolits with out buying from anyone on here. It hasn't slowed me down one bit. I am not opposed to buying from anyone on here and if the seller wants to sell and they have what I want to buy I will buy. I bought 14lbs of beeswax from a member here. But I didnt have to.
I don't get why everyone thinks they have to make it? Synthetic 2 stroke oil is $10 for a quart. So far I’ve made over 2k bullets and probably haven't used 1/16 of it yet if that much.
To each there own.
"Life isn't like a box of chocolates...It's more like
a jar of jalapenos. What you do today, might burn
your ass tomorrow."
Randy doesn't sell or offer LUBES.........
He sells only the raw materials, at great prices, so you can make your OWN lubes.....
I also do not sell lube or any raw materials.
Randy does NOT pay me any commissions for referrals for beeswax/lanolin/etc.
So, I have no vested interest in sending possible customers his way. He's a good guy, and treats everyone good.
Heck, you can use ear wax if you want some downright cheap lube.
Sheesh.....
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Duke's swaging lube was made (by me) from 50% (by weight) lanolin from Randy Rat, and 50% Militec-1 synthetic oil, purchased from the manufacturer. Heat slightly while mixing.... Allow to come back to room temperature.
I store it in empty 35mm plastic film containers. A dip of your finger, and smear on the brass to get swaged or sized.
My swage lube is NOT for sale. I shared a bit of it with FWest, to show him what he could also do with simple raw materials.
NRA Life Member
NRA Certified Metallic Cartridge Reloading Instructor
Author of a book on reloading
ILSA MEMBER http://www.internationallawnsteelsho...ssociation.com
NRA RANGE SAFETY OFFICER
And I thought this thred was about what works for swage lube ???
My comment was about his mixture not a pitch but what works. I was using Hornady Unique case lube and it was not working. Duke was nice enough to send me a little to try.
after you mix the lanolin and castor oil what is the consistency of the lube, like vaseline?
how do you apply it to cases, smear a little in a gallon plastic bag and then put the cases in and mix them up?
the lube can be thick or thin depending on room temperature. If you want it thinner add more castor oil want it thicker add more lanolin. It doesn't have to be exact. as far as how to apply the lube ask 100 people and you will get 100 answers. First what I do may not be the best way but it works pretty well for me. If I am de-rimming 22lr brass I take the cleaned brass and tumble them in a plastic bag with about a table spoon of swage lube to make sure they are coated well then de-rim them. After that I wash all the lube off the inside and outside of the jackets because I want to be doubly sure no lube is inside the jacket. I do the same with the cores I am making. after my brass and cores are completely lube free and clean I insert the core in the jacket with clean dry hands. Rubber gloves would be even better. Then as I am core seating I roll the outside only on a lubed case lube pad and seat the core after I have all the cores seated I will wash them again and tumble lube them in the same way as core blanks and de-rimming process. and point form. then back into a mek bath to clean off all the swage lube and I have great projectiles. Its the way I do it not necessarily the best or right way but it works good for me.
I've made 2 different types of lube, 1 with 50/50 of Lanolin and Castor Oil, and the other Lanolin and Vaseline 50/50. I much prefer the Vaseline and Lanolin as it's a bit thicker where the other is creamier. I just dip my finger in the container and smear it on the case.
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For bulk I do my lube like 3006. Goes quickly and evenly. I dab a little on my finger for smaller quantities.
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It's not mentioned in this thread but Lucas oil treatment (like STP) on an RCBS lube pad works great. I have tried Corbins lanolin lube and some others I have forgotten and prefer the Lucas. Try some and see what you think. It surely works great with a very thin film that comes off in corn cob media.
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |