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Thread: Annealing Jackets

  1. #101
    Boolit Mold spkltrt's Avatar
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    question to the annealing experts. i am new to the swaging process and using soft copper tubing (got some really nice looking 125gr 357's) but the base have a tiny stress crack on the corner. When you anneal the copper jacket at first: does it last the entire process of expanding the copper, rounding the end and flattenig the base?

  2. #102
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    Normally yes but not always. Usually stress cracks at the base is caused by uneven cuts and one side of your round over punch smashing the bottom of your jacket. That can be relieved by annealing but not always. This is especially true of coiled copper tubing as its not as good an alloy as the rigid tubing as well.

  3. #103
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    I haven't bothered to try annealing the soft copper tubing. I found it to allready be softer then anything else I use to make bullets from. I'm not sure annealing the copper tubing is the problem??

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  4. #104
    Boolit Mold spkltrt's Avatar
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    i found the culprit: seems the copper tubing is not seemless and at the corner of the base shows up as a hairline crack

  5. #105
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    Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #106
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
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    A note on annealing 22lr jackets. I have an old 4# Lee pot I got in a garage sale, never figured out what to do with it. It makes a perfect kiln for doing 100+ jackets @ a time. DUmp them in, crank it to #6, cover w/ heavy tin foil or a ceramic tile & stir once after 5m. Let them go another 5 & turn it off. They come out quite soft & ready for ss pin cleaning & when BT gets me the rest of the dies, I'll be makin bullets.
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  7. #107
    Boolit Master
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    As far as the tubing goes I end round first then anneal before reducing and swaging. If you have to reduce a few times, it could be worth annealing again.

  8. #108
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    OK! I had been saying it for a while but today I finally tried it and I must say it worked pretty darn good. Using the Lee #20 lead pot to anneal brass in. I used a new pot that can be found and keep it sepperate from any melted lead.

    It is quick! faster then anythign else I have tried yet and cheap! Only takes elc. I let them soak for maybe 20 minutes and WOW! that was too much! Things where glowing! Probably only needed 5-10 minutes max or possibly less. I was able to anneal probably 4-500 24 cal jackets at one time. Quick, perfect and awesome!

    Give it a try if you haven't all ready, just make sure you use a clean pot.

    Good shooting

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  9. #109
    Boolit Buddy
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    Brian- Bought one for just that. What setting did you use? Built a PID a while back, will probably use that.
    Supe

  10. #110
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    More infor to come! Just want to report back that I had %100 sucess with the brass I annealed in the Lee Lead Pot. I believe it will be my primary means to anneal all my riffle caliber brass jackets.

    Got to be sure to clean the brass after annealing! Good way to start the claening process is take the brass stratight from the "Lee Oven" and poor them directly into a bucket of hot citic acid water bath.

    I'll get back with my thoughts and future use of the Lee Oven

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  11. #111
    Boolit Bub
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    Just came up out of the shop. Finished derimming 22lr jackets and have begun the annealing process. Using an evenheat oven, raising temp to 1250 F for a 1 minute hold. Cases can be crushed with minimal finger pressure. The temps listined at the beginning of this post are holding true.

  12. #112
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    What model of oven are you using? This seems like the best way to go. The price isn't cheap, but it seems the most efficient way.
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  13. #113
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    I'm with Brian on the Lee 20 pound pot for the annealing.

    Compared with the commercial annealers, the Lee is a financially viable way to go. It will run hundreds of .22 LR brass de-rimmed pieces in a single 12 minute batch (goes faster than my ability to assemble into bullets), and is easy to just pick it up, and dump directly into hot water/Lemishine/Cictric Acid bath for cleaning. The lower 1/3 of the pot gets to annealing temperature, so keep the fill to about 1/3 full. That's a lot of brass.

    I also tried some 9mm brass, that went fast. It also went fast for the 5.7X28FN brass I annealed in it, 15 minute cycle time.

    I'm very happy with this an an annealing vessel.


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  14. #114
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    I'm thinking of getting a used knife blade annealer. Looks like I should be able to do several hundred at once. I just need 400 bucks now....

    And here I thought I was going to buy another ivory back scratcher.
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  15. #115
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    $400??? Are you nuts????

    Get a BRAND new Lee 20 pound dipper pot for UNDER $100, and do even more, per batch, than you'd ever do with the used knife blade annealer.
    The Lee pot version is even designed for the exact perfect temperature range!!!!



    Quote Originally Posted by Del-Ray View Post
    I'm thinking of getting a used knife blade annealer. Looks like I should be able to do several hundred at once. I just need 400 bucks now....

    And here I thought I was going to buy another ivory back scratcher.


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  16. #116
    Boolit Master

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    Annealing Jackets

    Or do it for 20$. Buy a cast iron skillet with a lid. Fill it full of brass you want to anneal or core bond, and place over a burner on high for fifteen minutes. I am able to do 250-300 40's with bonding the lead in fifteen minutes. I can do more if I'm annealing. Your limited to real estate with the lee pot, and you can only fill it a third of the way full.

    Grumpa taught that to me a few weeks ago and works like a charm. You can even add your thermostat in the top to confirm you have reached 800+ degrees.
    "The right of the people to keep and bear...arms shall not be infringed. A well regulated militia, composed of the body of the people, trained to arms, is the best and most natural defense of a free country..." (James Madison, I Annals of Congress 434 [June 8, 1789])


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  17. #117
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    New here so if someone else mentioned it I did not see it. When I need to dry cases after sonic cleaning I use a food dehydrator that was useless for food but at about 100 degrees for an hour I can dry about 500 9mm brass. Works great, but I wouldn't try food again in it

  18. #118
    Boolit Mold USMCamp0811's Avatar
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    Is that a gas or electric stovetop you are using? Just curious as I am planning my entry into the swagging realm and I'm trying to figure out how I will anneal brass in my apartment. I've only got a small Q gas grill and an old electric stove that is not self-cleaning. The 4# Lee pot sounds like a good possibility but hey a cast iron pot sounds even better, if feasible.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lizard333 View Post
    Or do it for 20$. Buy a cast iron skillet with a lid. Fill it full of brass you want to anneal or core bond, and place over a burner on high for fifteen minutes. I am able to do 250-300 40's with bonding the lead in fifteen minutes. I can do more if I'm annealing. Your limited to real estate with the lee pot, and you can only fill it a third of the way full.

    Grumpa taught that to me a few weeks ago and works like a charm. You can even add your thermostat in the top to confirm you have reached 800+ degrees.

  19. #119
    Boolit Master

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    I'm using a propane turkey fryer for the heat. 15 minutes on high and the pot is above 800. Good or me.
    "The right of the people to keep and bear...arms shall not be infringed. A well regulated militia, composed of the body of the people, trained to arms, is the best and most natural defense of a free country..." (James Madison, I Annals of Congress 434 [June 8, 1789])


    Once the people find they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic.
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  20. #120
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lizard333 View Post
    I'm using a propane turkey fryer for the heat. 15 minutes on high and the pot is above 800. Good or me.
    I have been looking for an alternative to heating each case individually with a propane torch. Do the cases begin to glow in the pan and does the pan start to show any color from the heat? This may be the answer I have been looking for.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check