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Thread: New casting bench

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master
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    New casting bench

    The old chest freezer I was using as a casting bench is going away. I am buildi something specifically for casting.

    I am asking if anyone can think of a reason to make it more than 2 feet deep. The pot only needs a foot. 3 inches behind leaves me plenty of room in front of the pot. It will be about 6 feet long so surface space isn't an issue. If I wanted I could easily make it 3 feet deep but I think the extra depth would be wasted space.

    I also want to run a heavy extension cord to a power strip. I currently have a couple cords running across the garage for power, I would like the to go away.

    Can I run my RCBS pot and a small hot plate on a power strip at the same time? What about adding a small fan in addition. I prefer not to over load a circuit.

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    what else is on the circuit?

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master
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    An outlet in the garage. It is very rarely used. The other one I could use run to the garage and a single outlet in the kitchen, again rarely used. That outlet in the kitchen is almost never used.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
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    if that is all that is on the circuit i don't for see any issues. 15 amps and under total.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy drklynoon's Avatar
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    I wouldn't make your bench any deeper than two feet this should eliminate your need to stretch across to get something.
    Nathan

    Casting and reloading novice

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    Just measured my work area, two feet is plenty but remember the pot radiates a lot of heat so watch what is on the wall behind it.

  7. #7
    Boolit Mold dickttx's Avatar
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    Interesting questions. I am trying to get set up for casting. I inherited a workbench my dad had made with a 3" laminated maple top (old shuffle board). However, I was also planning to cover that with some leftover backer board--the stuff they put on under the tile in our kitchen backsplash. It seems to be pretty heat resistant. Thought about putting it behind the bench too, if it ends up against a wall.
    Anyone, use this?

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Mine will have a plywood top. I may add a layer of Masonite if it strikes me.
    Wall behind mine is concrete block so radiated he's isn't an issue.
    I think 2 feet will work well.

  9. #9
    Boolit Bub
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    Nice thoughts.... Any opinion on ventilation for the pot and melting of the metals?
    I am giving thought to a workbench with casters to roll out for air ventilation... I was impressed with the metal bench in another thread...but that takes ability and hvy scrap metal...
    Keep us up-2-date on your progress... I'm sure it'll be neat.
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  10. #10
    Boolit Master 1bluehorse's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Remyvtr15 View Post
    Nice thoughts.... Any opinion on ventilation for the pot and melting of the metals?
    I am giving thought to a workbench with casters to roll out for air ventilation... I was impressed with the metal bench in another thread...but that takes ability and hvy scrap metal...
    Keep us up-2-date on your progress... I'm sure it'll be neat.
    I use the bottom half of an old roll-around tool box set. All metal, 4, 4in deep drawers and the bottom part is a large open area with a drop down lid...measures 27in wide, 18in deep, and 32in high.

    Easy to move around until you fill that bottom area with a couple hundred pounds of ingots, then it becomes pretty stationary...

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    I like the idea of a power strip on a heavy extension cord. I will do that to my bench too. Thanks. Joe
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  12. #12
    Boolit Master
    Mal Paso's Avatar
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    My casting table is 30 inches deep with the pot all the way back. That allows my to rest my forearms on the front of the table while I run the mold under the pot. I cast seated in an office swivel chair. I am planning to build a replacement with a polished oak armrest across the front that would also act as a lead stop in case of a pot failure.
    Mal

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  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I got it built. 28 inches deep, 60 inches long. Room under the lower shelf for a couple Rubbermaid bins full of ingots. Shelf is plenty big to store tin ingots, smelting supplies, and who knows what else.

    Need to run my cord and get the pot back in place. I decided to leave the plywood top bare.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy RoGrrr's Avatar
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    I bought several solid core doors at a garage sale. They just wanted to get rid of them, so for $20, I just couldn't pass them up. I didn't have any use for them AT THAT TIME. Eventually, I used one for my computer table (it doesn't SAG like the old hollow core door I was using) and one for my loading bench. There's enough room in the basement that I can walk all the way around it so I now have almost 7 feet on "this side", a couple feet for my sizer/luber and another 7 feet on the other side. Oh, yeah, I have 2 single stage presses on that 4th/last side. And I hung several drawers under it (nice thing about solid core - bolts/screws hold well) for accessories. Plus another shelf below the drawers. If you can't spread OUT, use vertical spaces...
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check