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Thread: ID Mold Help?

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
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    Jul 2009
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    Texas
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    ID Mold Help?

    I am a newbie as casting bullets. I bought a mold at EBay and if it still up please look at it.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thompson-Cen.../110967087017?

    Thompson Center 50cal maxi-ball mold. Used. Buyer pays actual shipping cost. No International Bidders. Payment must be made within 48 hours unless other arrangements have been made. Please ask questions and check out my other auctions. I will combine shipping. Send me an email if you buy more than one item.

    The only marks on in it say ‘534’and the seller told me it was a 370 grain Thompson Center 50 Cal mini ball. Is this a Thompson Center 50 Cal 370 grain mold? It looks a little colored in copper.

    Thanks, Robert
    Last edited by robertmcw; 10-31-2012 at 06:36 PM.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    2,796
    It looks like what the description says- T/C 50 cal Maxi Ball mold. I don't know what the "534" means. I have had one just like it since the early 70s. I should be aluminum and uses standard mold handles. The odd color is just the lighting in the photo. They were fairly black when new. It was designed for the T/C 50 cal "Hawken" rifle with 1:48 twist. Nominally I think the weight cast with pure lead is approx 370 gr. The top band is slightly larger than bore diameter so it is engraved when seated. The base and body band are approx bore diameter- that is how the Maxi Balls are designed. The price seems fair if it's in good shape. I always found them to be easy to use.
    Trust but verify the honeyguide

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I agree with fouronesix. The moulds are an anodized aluminum and it looks like it has worn some which gives it the odd color. The number I have been told has no meaning and is just a number the stamp on them to keep the two halves together and keep from getting mixed up with others. I have several and each has numbers that mean nothing. No way to tell the actual size or weight because they made them for different calibers and they all basically look the same so if he says it is .50, it probably is but no way to know for sure until you actually have it other than his word. They also made them in different weights from time to time.
    Aim small, miss small!

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy garbear's Avatar
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    I have a mold just like that one. My mold drops right at 370 with pure lead.
    You will like the mold.
    Garbear
    Garbear

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

    FLINTNFIRE's Avatar
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    Looks like the .50 caliber maxi ball I have from 1989 and my dads in the maxi hunter has the anodizing the same also , they all were copper tint to the color .

  6. #6
    Boolit Master HARRYMPOPE's Avatar
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    the TC maxi molds i had in 45 and 50 cast a bit bigger than the Lyman ones and shot better.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master Maven's Avatar
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    I've owned 5 or 6 T/C RB (.45cal. & .50cal.) and Maxi-Ball molds (.45cal. & .50cal.) and have been impressed with their quality, consistency, and casting ability. OTOH, the Lyman's, both RB (.50cal.) and Maxi-Ball (.50cal.), which cast well, varied more widely in diameter than the T/C's. In fact a borrowed Ly. Maxi-Ball mold cast larger than the T/C I have, leading me to purchase one of my own. Unfortunately, the latter cast too small for my rifle's bore. The borrowed oversize (and overweight) Ly. Maxi- shot well, but was no more accurate than the T/C Maxi- from the same rifle. In sum, T/C made* an excellent mold.


    *Marketed may be a better term as I don't think T/C actually made molds. Rather, Green Mountain, Lyman, Ohaus, and possibly Shiloh produced them at one time or another.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy KyBill's Avatar
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    I agree with HarryMpope Lyman is better .I have the T/C molds and they work well for me new were Black anodized aluminum with a little heat and getting to hot turn copperish in color. my .50 maxi has 373 on it just checked . numbers match both halves . Reason I like Lyman can cast a lot before needing to cool down. if lead starts to stick to the block at the cutter your too Hot.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master Maven's Avatar
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    KyBill, I think you misread Harrypope's post re Lyman's Maxi-Ball molds being better than T/C's. Here's what he wrote: "the TC maxi molds i had in 45 and 50 cast a bit bigger than the Lyman ones and shot better." (sic)

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check