When I lived in Mass, I had a few friends "out on the sand bar" that were off the grid. They used propane refrigerators in their beach shacks. As I recall, the recovery time on those units was pretty slow. If you put a case of beer in there at noon, you had better not want a cold one too long before it got dark.
“an armed society is a polite society.”
Robert A. Heinlein
"Idque apud imperitos humanitas vocabatur, cum pars servitutis esset."
Publius Tacitus
I've thought several times about buying a kerosene pressure lamp but haven't does Sam's Club still carry them? After seeing a guy loose is eybrows and some hair at the Indy 500 many years ago, about 40-45 years it was the race with a lot of rain delays and an accident which killed a driver and killed or seriously hurt some fans when his tire launched a fence and hit some spectators, anyway watching the guy barbecue himself made me leary of gas. About 20 years ago I had a VW camper and kept it loaded, when the wife and I went camping we just needed food and a couple of propane bottles we used a Coleman stove with a propane convertor and a small single mantle lantern which you screwed to a bottle and hung it with it's chain. I can' remember the brand.
I'm no expert but I have repaired a substantial amount when I was selling them used. Before me or anybody else can offer any help please describe the problem. A bad or leaking filler cap is probably the problem with 50%. Does it hold pressure? Is there any resistance when you pump it up? Using a magnet test the font to see if it is steel, hopefully it is brass. With a flashlight look inside of the font for rust. If the inside is severly rusted it is good for parts or decor only.
And of the new caps will fix your pressure issue if you have one. Try not to try and fix an older model cap with the two-part seal (the kind with a screw in the center) Just buy a modern cap. Amazon has them all the time. If it's a fuel flow problem you might have a plugged generator. Sometimes you can dissassemble them and clean them in carb cleaner, other times you need to relpace them. Do an ebay search or search google under Coleman mil spec stove parts and you'll find them. Keeping the font clean is a good idea. Never store fuel in them for any length of time. To clean a dirty one, partially fill with soapy water and a few spoons of BBs. Cap and shake like heck for a couple of minutes. Empty the BBs, drain the tank, rinse with hot water, air dry, fill with alcohol (about a third full) pressurize, open the valve and let the alcohol purge any remaining water. Empty, air dry and fill with fuel. If the valves are clogged, you will need to get new packing lead sleves etc before dissassembly. These can be found on line too.
R J Talley
Teacher/James Madison Fellow
So mate is this thing up for grabs?
In my dreams
Yes i have the complete: TM 10-7300-200-12 manual, would you like a scan?
http://www.spiritburner.com/fusion/s.../post/new/#NEW
As mentioned before, the LED Lanterns are bright, batteries are cheap (get the type that use 3 or 4 "D" dry cells), light to carry, do last a long time, and are safe. I have a number of Coleman Gas Lanterns and have not used them in many years. The LED Lanterns have spoiled me.
Getting old is the best you can hope for.
But LED lights won't heat a can of rations. . . . .
Cognitive Dissident
MAn i love this thread
I need to take a pic of the ones i need to get going .
Maybe i can get help and make it run again.
I think it is a kero lamp
Off to dig it up lol
Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.
Safeshot,
Do you have a link to a LED lantern of quality?
Thanks,
Ramar
For a cheap kerosene substitute you can go to your local midsized airport and ask for some Jet-A negative Prist. Jet fuel is basically kerosene. I am a pilot and get a free batch of it once in a while. I have burned it in my kerosene heaters and it works great. It may have slightly more odor than kerosene but nothing too offensive. Jet fuel at Michigan airports is running about $5.75 per gallon. If you can, get it without Prist which is an icing inhibitor. You don't need it.
OMGB, I thank you for inserting a little French into your posting. You may have spent time in Louisiana or know some one from the Southern area as we use the word "BEAUCOUP" almost daily.
Your spelling was incorrect but the use of the word does not have impact with a group of people who are from the North or other areas.
I once had a man from Wisconsin who was working in the Baton Rouge area come and get me to look at a small mound of dirt in his yard. He wanted to know what made it. I told him it was a crawfish hole and that we had beaucoup crawfish in Louisiana.
His next question was and I quote "what does a beaucoup crawfish look like"
For those who are not aware of the meaning of the word, it means MANY or a large bunch of a item.
Now for my back on subject Coleman posting. At the age of 65 and living in the south, I grew up *in the woods and swamps of South Louisiana. We used our Coleman lanterns almost every week.
We used both the Kerosene and the ones we burned the American White gas in.
I saw more than one lantern thrown as it lit and burned with two foot high flames coming from leaking parts. They were bright but very dangerous to use if one did not maintain them.
While serving with the 4Th ID during the sixties I saw many a Kitchen burner blow it's stack when it was lit by kitchen personal. It was funny at the time.
I now use the propane and battery lamps so I don't have to use any gas fuel.
The person who posted that the old fuel lanterns gave off heat, that is true but the fumes were and are very dangerous.
Shooter of the "HOLY BLACK" SASS 81802 AKA FAIRSHAKE; NRA ; BOLD; WARTHOG;Deadwood Marshal;Bayou Bounty Hunter; So That his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat; 44 WCF filled to the top, 210 gr. bullet
Hey Cajun...I picked up that phrase in the USAF back in the very early 70s. By Father-in-law is a coonass with a neck so red it glows and he uses it too Any way, I learned a couple of things over the weekend. Saturday I bought 4 Colemans at $10 ea. All were dated between 1958 and 1965. All looked barnd new out of the box but...all had fuel in them and it stuck of varnish and oxidation. Even the valves were stuck and refused to open. So, I removed the ventilators, the globes and the generators. I tore down each generator and cleaned them with WalMark brake cleaner using a razor blade to gently scrape the fuel rods. I also cleaned the orifices. Then I filled the takes with a few BBs and a pint of Sea Foam. I shaked and shaked and then let them sit for an hour or so. Meanwhile I opend the pump units and took out the leather pump seal. These I cleaned and soaked in Balistol. They softened right up in a matter of minutes. Using a long screw driver, I pulled the check valve on one usint that was refusing to seal. I soaked this in some Seafoam for a couple of minutes, shot some brake cleaner on it and reinstalled it...good as new. Now I pressurized the tanks...(all required new caps) and let the SF buble up and out of the valves. I wiped down the tanks (SF is a really great cleaner/degreaser) and drained out the SF. I then rinsed the tanks with fresh Coleman gas, ran some up throught the valves to clean out the SF and reinstalled the generators. I filled the tanks with gas and pumped them up 75 strokes. I let everyting sit for an hour to ensure there were no leaks. I then put new mantels on, added spark lighters to all of them, and put the globes and vents back on. Each one fired up and burned perfectly. The Seafoam saved me from having to pull the main valve assemblys...a huge time saver. Now I have one left, a 1989 CLX version. Unfortunately it broke the eccentric cam assembly and I'm going to have to order a new one.
R J Talley
Teacher/James Madison Fellow
You cannot discover new oceans unless you have the courage to lose sight of the shore
I wanted to mention too, I'm in the process of taking the burner out of an old 1948 220D model and putting it in a milspec lantern. I'm also taking the quadrant glass clips and transfering them over to the 220D frame. That way I'll have the effecient 220D burnder with two mantles, the quadrant glass and the fount from the mils-spec lantern without the noise and slow start up from the mil-spec lamp. the mil-spec stuff uses an old Aladden patent burner that is really ineffecient and loud.
R J Talley
Teacher/James Madison Fellow
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |