MidSouth Shooters SupplyInline FabricationLoad DataSnyders Jerky
Lee PrecisionTitan ReloadingRotoMetals2Reloading Everything
Repackbox Wideners
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 23 of 23

Thread: using Lee pro 1000 as a single stage press

  1. #21
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    11
    well I got it put together taken apart and put together again (I like dis/reassembling stuff and understanding its parts) and decided to just run it with no cases for a while to look at all the operations, then I started running it with only the de-priming die in while feeding one case at a time. after a bit I added the case feeder and got into a rhythm.

    check case orientation and make sure its seated properly
    handle down
    catch the falling case
    visually confirm case is de-primed while raising handle
    repeat

    I ran into some problems along the way such as the shellplate not indexing fully or at all, cases not de-priming and etc but I was able to isolate each problem and make adjustments until I had it running flawlessly for a few hundred cases. This was extremely educational and I think Im really getting a feel for how to quickly prevent several problems and fix them if they do occur. in the end it was quite easy to deprime extremely quickly.

    I will repeat this process again with only the priming step, and then do only the powder and bullet seating. Hopefully ill find any quirks in each step after the first 200 or so rounds and understand how to fix them individually before trying all of them together. I think if I really understand each part then ill be able to trouble shoot quickly and working with the quirks in this piece of hardware will be an enjoyable part of the process instead of the headache that it could become otherwise.

    Since the manufactuors documentation is... extremely lacking... Once ive loaded a thousand rounds or so I think I will write up an introduction to the machine for newer people and a guide on a process to set it up and prevent problems, all of the issues ive seen so far could be prevented completely by going through a ~2 minute calibration procedure before starting work. I assume the problems may crop back up again after enough rounds have been loaded, but it should be easy enough to just recheck calibration every time the case-feeder is empty.

    I think this machine is going to work out just fine as long as the priming step isn't too much of a problem. I'm a little worried due to all the stories ive heard but we shall see.
    Last edited by authentic; 06-30-2012 at 03:13 AM.
    I'm not reloading to save money or for political creed or civic duty. I'm reloading because reloading is awesome.
    ...
    And zombies, I'm also reloading in case of zombies.

  2. #22
    Banned


    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    29˚68’27”N, 99˚12’07”W
    Posts
    14,662
    Never let the primer chute run empty, keep it clean (remove all primers and "dust" it with a camel-hair paintbrush after every session and you'll be fine. I use masking tape on the back side of the primer chute to ensure that the halves stay locked together tightly and don't spread out. When the last primer goes out of the tray I load maybe four more rounds and when the topmost primer emerges from below the socket that holds the tray, I pull the tray and refill it. If you pull the tray while a few primers are still in the chute near the top where you can't see them, they jam up and you'll have to fish them out before you can reinsert the tray. The priming system relies totally on gravity to push the bottom 10-12 primers along, and when the weight diminishes by running the primers too low in the chute, they stop feeding properly and jam the primer mechanism because the primer won't be pushed fully onto the punch.

    Another tip is put clear tape over the top of the primer chute to keep stray powder kernels from falling in there as they sift out of the measure directly above it.

    The most important thing I think to learn about any progressive is ALWAYS cycle the handle through the full travel, NEVER stop in the middle unless you're forced to by some malfunction. This will get you in the habit and keep you from having missed, double, or partial powder charges and keep you from missing primers.

    Gear

  3. #23
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    11

    good tips

    thanks, those sound like good tips.

    Quote Originally Posted by geargnasher View Post
    Never let the primer chute run empty, keep it clean (remove all primers and "dust" it with a camel-hair paintbrush after every session and you'll be fine. I use masking tape on the back side of the primer chute to ensure that the halves stay locked together tightly and don't spread out. When the last primer goes out of the tray I load maybe four more rounds and when the topmost primer emerges from below the socket that holds the tray, I pull the tray and refill it. If you pull the tray while a few primers are still in the chute near the top where you can't see them, they jam up and you'll have to fish them out before you can reinsert the tray. The priming system relies totally on gravity to push the bottom 10-12 primers along, and when the weight diminishes by running the primers too low in the chute, they stop feeding properly and jam the primer mechanism because the primer won't be pushed fully onto the punch.

    Another tip is put clear tape over the top of the primer chute to keep stray powder kernels from falling in there as they sift out of the measure directly above it.

    The most important thing I think to learn about any progressive is ALWAYS cycle the handle through the full travel, NEVER stop in the middle unless you're forced to by some malfunction. This will get you in the habit and keep you from having missed, double, or partial powder charges and keep you from missing primers.

    Gear
    I'm not reloading to save money or for political creed or civic duty. I'm reloading because reloading is awesome.
    ...
    And zombies, I'm also reloading in case of zombies.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check