Do you find the need to add tin to wheel weights?

[Mark85304]

I am casting boolits using straight wheel weights and I find that the alloy does not fill the driving bands well (the edge is not sharp). The 22 calibers cast pretty good, but as I get longer or larger calibers the drive bands begin to look rounded. I think adding some tin to the alloy will help fill out the moulds better. I do not have a thermometer but even when the mould is hot enough to frost the boolits, the drive bands just don't fill out well, especially on my 44 and 45 caliber aluminum moulds.

What do you think?

[ScottJ]

I found that if I'm willing to accept a full grey rather than shiny finish by running hot enough to almost but not quite frost them I can skip the added tin.

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[zxcvbob]

I'm using Lee boolit molds that don't have sharp corners; I seldom have to add tin to anything. I have some WW lead, but I usually just use scrap.

[littlejack]

Mark, welcome to the CastBoolits.

No sir, you don't have to use tin in ww alloy. I have cast thousands of boolits along with thousands of other casters who have done the
same.
It will help fill out of the cavity if you have it, but you CAN get very nice boolits without it.
I do use tin now, because I have it.
Jack

[canyon-ghost]

I usually run hot enough for fillout, sometime I add tin. I guess I'd say both.

[runfiverun]

mold temp is more important than your alloy temp when it comes to fill out.
tin has its usefulness and in some cases fill out is one of them.
i would try getting the molds hotter first then add the tin if things don't improve.
usually letting the alloy run into the cavitys from a slight angle will allow them to vent better and negate the need for tin.

[Hardcast416taylor]

Pot temp. and mold temp. go hand in hand for good fill out. If 1 is a bit too cool at pouring you will not get good fill out or wrinkles will result. Our not knowing what you are using as a melt pot doesn`t help in our help. LEE pots are hit and miss on their temp settings, a therometer for lead would help you know the pot temp. when pouring. Tin can be used by getting some Lead-Free solder. Unroll about a 10" length for a full LEE pot then stir in and flux before starting pouring. A temp. of about 700 degrees will usually solve any wrinkle and fill out problems.Robert

[a.squibload]

Need? No, but poured my best boolits ever after reading
about alloys on Castboolits. Around 1% tin (or pewter)
makes it easier to get good fillout. I'm all about easy!

[40Super]

I usually do, I like to have nice crisp edges and the tin does help make it easier .Otherwise you fight temps up and down all the time.Angling the mold helps on many also, along with faster/slower pour, more/less sprue,lattle/bottom pour,ect....
One example= I have a new brass mold that will not fillout good no matter how much tin, all it takes is as fast a pour as I can and a pretty big sprue puddle(about twice the size as any other mold. If I do that it drops perfect bullets every time, regardless of tin content.

[dragonrider]

Straight WW's works well for me,

[ColColt]

I add about 2 ounces per 10 pounds of WW's-no problems with fill out so, I don't look a gift horse in the mouth. Moreover, 2% tin has been recommended here countless times.

[lwknight]

Need? No.
It makes things go better all the way around.
I'm not too cheap to make things better.
I can speed up production and make better bullets with added tin.
Sure some people do just fine without but they could do a lot better.

[Defcon-One]

There are two ways to increase mold fill-out in a clean, oil free mold. Higher temperatures which you have tried and Tin.

The higher temperatures (Mold & Alloy) keep the metal flowing longer since it takes longer to cool down and reach its set temperature. The Tin decreases the surface tension of the alloy allowing it to flow into sharper corners where pure lead and low Tin alloys just won't go.

Since you are pushing temps to bullet frosting levels now I would say try 1-2% Tin in your mix. It makes it much easier to get good fill out and you get a tougher bullet as well, meaning that it is less brittle and less likely to break up.

For the little extra you pay for that Tin, you get a much more usable alloy. That means faster, easier and more productive casting sessions. It works for me!

I use 2% Tin, 3% Antimony and 95% Lead for my hangun bullets (at 725-750 Deg F) and Lyman #2 which is 5% Tin, 5% Antimony and 90% Lead for my rifle bullets (at 750-775 Deg F).

One last thing. If your mold has any impurities or oil in the lube groove area, you will never get it to fill out completely. A clean, oil free mold is critical to getting good bullets, so check that first.

[Dennis Eugene]

Usually I don't bother adding tin. However today I was casting some bullets that I intend to give to a friend ,so I added a little tin just to make a prettier bullet, and because I want him to think I might just know what I'm doing. Dennis

[cf_coder]

I always add tin as I feel it make it easier for me to acheive fill-out... well, that and I seem to have a very large supply of what appears to be 50/50 solder. So adding it doesn't hurt. I tried using straight isotope core lead and had problems getting good sharp edges. 2% tin in that mix fixed that issue straight up.

Welcome to the site from a fellow AZ caster! There's a few of us on here and it's good to find more.

[dnotarianni]

Rounded drive bands = more lube and better sealing to the bore. Just another opinion. How do they look after sizing?

Dave

[Mark85304]

I picked up some 50/50 lead/tin bars today. I added one pound bar to 19 pounds wheel weights. These are my results.



Left to right: Lee 457 340 grn FN, Ranch Dog TLC 379 235 grn RF, Lyman 375248 249 grn RFP, Lyman 356402 120 grn TC, Lyman 287346 135 grn RN, Lee 22 Bator.

I'm getting the hang of these aluminum moulds. As you can see some of them are not the prettiest, but shootable. I am having a blast. Now to get my Lyman 450 sizer set up.

[40Super]

Your molds need to be warmer ,plus you can get away with less tin than what you are. I use around 1 to 2oz per 19-20lb pot. I would try less than half and see how things look,once the molds get warmer,you'll see better fillout and no wrinkles.

[dnotarianni]

As you can see some of them are not the prettiest, but shootable. I am having a blast. Now to get my Lyman 450 sizer set up.

I have never seen a pretty bullet recovered from the backstop when I am scrounging range lead!
As you said your having a blast, now blast that lead
Dave

[captaint]

For me, it's been a specific mold issue. Some molds, not so much tin required. Others, just add the tin and get it over with. I have a H&G 2 cav 68 mold that WILL NOT fill out the drive bands all around without some tin. Just ain't gonna happen. enjoy Mike