I got this idea from this forum, made a DIY video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3ioBcfMD78
I got this idea from this forum, made a DIY video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3ioBcfMD78
Looks like a lot of work to me. I use a hair blow dryer. I am sure a paint stripper would work to, but might get a bit too hot.
Pretty simple in my opinion, drill 2 holes and bolt it down. I guess there are many ways to apply heat.
I'll bet your method applies heat faster but I don't think I would like the noise of a blow dryer... although it would block out the noise of the rest of the family trying to get my attention every 10 minutes for something unnecessary.
I did the same thing a few months back for my Lyman 45. I used a thinner metal plate that I had screwed to a 2x4 and then bolted my Lyman through the plate and the 2x4 which is mounted to my workbench. Same idea on the iron as well. Worked great in the cold garage to get my lube flowing again. I mostly use BAC Lube so in the other 3 seasons I don't require the heat but I did need it this winter.
Bruce
I Cast my Boolits, Therefore I am Happy.
Bona Fide member of the Jeff Brown Hunt Club
A 100-Watt light bulb silent.
I did the same thing with some 5/8"x4" extruded aluminum. Difference is my iron has a braided cloth cord on it! I used a light for years, but it doesn't get the front around the die very warm. The heat sink works better.
Gear
Looks good. Want to sell a piece of that aluminum and recoup your investment?
Cliff
FPD, NRA Lifer, USN retired
Gear,
I encase the lamp and lube-sizer with heavy-duty aluminum foil, which does a very good job of heating the far sides and fronts of the reservoir and the die areas. With care, a piece of foil will withstand months of wrapping and unwrapping.
I would like to report back that after using it half a dozen times I am very pleased. I typically fire up the iron for about 3-4 minutes then unplug it. The heat continues to move and things soften up nicely. The heat is retained very well and lasts well through my sizing sessions (Typically 30-60 minutes).
Gj. I love to hear of inventions made from thrift store finds.
L. Bottoms
My feedback link
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=leadbutt
Looks good. I've had a similar setup for a few years and really like it.
David
Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris
I don't see that he included the pattern under the plate as an insulator - I think an insulator is desirable. Also - I would bolt the LAM to the plate, then use C-clamps to buckle it down on the workbench. Allows more flexibility. Otherwise, good effort.
Echo
USAF Ret
DPS, 2600
NRA Benefactor
O&U
One of the most endearing sights in the world is the vision of a naked good-looking woman leaving the bedroom to make breakfast. Bolivar Shagnasty (I believe that Lazarus Long also said it, but I can't find any record of it.)
When I have done similar projects I take a large flat file or a flat plate and some sand paper and try to get a 70~80% flat on my surface.... like the bottom of your sizer. Then use just a little copper grease, available at an electrical supply store, and out line my contact area with it. Just need a little , but the heat transfer rate goes way up. Now with a little Kaowool from a refractory supply you could have that sucker too hot to touch!!!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |