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Thread: RCBS Lock-Out Die

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy jeff423's Avatar
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    RCBS Lock-Out Die

    I'm thinking about getting one of these for my progressive press. I know it will catch no charge and double charged cases, but how much variation will it permit once you have it adjusted for the correct powder volume? I know this is very dependent on the type of powder and charge weight. Most of the reviews at Midway say it's great but some say it permits too much variance with high density powders like Titegroup.
    I'm interested in hearing from people who own or have used one.
    Please don't respond with generalized comments about safety while reloading. I'm not trying to be a jerk, I'm just seeking specific information.

    Thanks,

    Jeff

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    LUBEDUDE's Avatar
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    I just happened to have read a reveiw this morning that was laying on the floor of my office. It was a few years old.( Ya think I need to clean my office ?) The fella hooked one up on his Dillon and said it worked well within 1 grain either way. He felt it was within safe enough limits for his use.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    LUBEDUDE's Avatar
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    Maybe H110 will chime in about how he improved his Lock-Out with his modification.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy jeff423's Avatar
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    Thanks Lubedude,

    I looked up H110's modification and it was for a different type of powder check die (if I found the right thread).

    Jeff

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Jeff,

    I will probably go to the lock out die at some point as the buzzer Dillon style powder check system is dependent on batteries and Murphys Law prevails.

    That said, I put one of the manual eye ball reading type Powder Check dies by RCBS on my Lee turret press and I flat like it there. Pretty fool proof and simple. Not cheap but it is perfect for the turret and I like the safety check it gives me when I am loading 9mm which is a tiny case.

    I manually eye ball powder levels as a habit, have lights on my presses (inlinefabrication.com)
    and the RCBS powder check (or lock out die type) die is added safety and I like that option very much.

    May be its over kill, but as I get older in years: I like the redundancy for safety.

    I applaud your interest in such dies !

  6. #6
    Boolit Man
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    I just got a Lock Out die for my LNL. Works as advertised. I do notice it takes a little extra force to cycle the die. And, by extra force, I'm talking ounces not pounds. It was easy to set up. I have only loaded about 500 rounds of 9mm using mixed brass . I had it lock up once on a odd ball piece of brass that was quite a bit thicker than the others I was loading. I think the dies operating window depends on the type of powder you are using. I was using Power Pistol and it seemed to have a .2+/- grain operating window.

  7. #7
    Boolit Mold
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    I purchased the RCBS lockout die for my LnL ap press. After configuring the die as per RCBS’s instructions for 5 grains of Bullseye, I proceed to test how it would react with less powder, and at 4.5 grains, the die locked up. I then figured, take .5 out and it locks up, so I’ll add .5 for a total of 5.5, no lockup, 6.0, , 6.5, 7.0 , and on up, finally got it to lockup at 9.8 grains. I ended up emailing RCBS and asked specifically on the over change, and their response was it needed to be a double charge in order to lockup. If you have one, take it out of the press and configure it manually and test it out. I use the die for low powder and no longer trust it for an over charge, unless it’s a true double charge. I stick to my normal practice and look into each case before I set the boolit on it.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    LUBEDUDE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by milprileb View Post
    Jeff,

    I will probably go to the lock out die at some point as the buzzer Dillon style powder check system is dependent on batteries and Murphys Law prevails.
    !

    Actually the Dillon and the sound is only half of the equation which is the extra bonus.

    I use my eyes with the Dillon as well.

    If you have it set up correctly, the brass "pointer" on the plastic alarm part should line up in the middle of the "V" in the rod that drops into the case.

    Now all you do is watch with each turn of the crank for the pointer to line up in the middle of the V.

    You learn how much your load is off up or down by how much the rod is off, up or down without the alarm going off.

    For my loads, as long as the pointer stays in the V, I'm good, if it slips out, then I need to weigh it.

    I definitely trust my eyes over the sound.

    Good Luck

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    Lubedude: It was right in front of me and I never bothered to see that solution. Thank you, that is now how I will do it !

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Thumbs up

    Good Deal

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by LUBEDUDE View Post
    Actually the Dillon and the sound is only half of the equation which is the extra bonus.

    I use my eyes with the Dillon as well.

    If you have it set up correctly, the brass "pointer" on the plastic alarm part should line up in the middle of the "V" in the rod that drops into the case.

    Now all you do is watch with each turn of the crank for the pointer to line up in the middle of the V.


    I definitely trust my eyes over the sound.

    Good Luck
    Maybe my 64 yr old eyes, but this solution requires me just a mili second to acquire brass pointer in the "V" but its no bother at all. If one is just blindly cranking the handle and fixated on max production, nothing is going to prevent drama ... my opinion

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check