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Thread: Lyman Mag 20 Spout freeze

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
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    Lyman Mag 20 Spout freeze

    Hi Guys, I'm kind a new to this form and still very much a novis bullet caster. I bought a Lyman Mag 20 and tried it for the first time yesterday. I had a lot of problems with spout freeze up. Is there any trick that keeps this from happening? I was running the temperature near max while casting. When I'd stop to take a break and try to start again I had to push a piece of wire up in the spout to get it to open. Once I ran the melted lead throufgh it for a few seconds it would be OK till the next time that I paused. This was a real pain in the butt!

    Sendaro

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master


    Larry Gibson's Avatar
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    Do you have a thermometer to know the actual temp of the alloy. Also it being winter and all (snowed here last night) what is the ambient temp where you are casting? Also what alloy?

    Larry Gibson

  3. #3
    Boolit Master bosterr's Avatar
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    I have a Lyman 20 also and know exactly what you mean. In my case I was using a pretty old Lyman thermometer which turned out to be very inaccurate. After I built my PID I finally knew what my casting temp really was. I use to put a propane torch to the spout for a few seconds, yes a real pain. My first real session with the PID (6 1/2 hours straight), no spout freeze. I now consider a PID as an essential piece of equipment. I figured my main cause of spout freeze was putting sprue back in when it was too cold along with too low a temp setting.

  4. #4
    Boolit Bub
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    Larry, I could not get the aloy up over 675 degrees. I was using about a 30 to 1 alloy and casting in an area where the temperature was changing all the time. Spent some time this AM cleaning the inside of the pot out and checking the spout for blockages or damage. There was some slag build up on the side walls of the pot, and it cleaned up easy with a wire wheel. I took the pouring handle and stopper assebley apart and cleaned it of any crud or whatever. Put it all back together again and gave it a try. Had to use a wire up the spout again to get the flow started once the melt was at 675F. That's as high as this Mag 20 is letting me go. Once started It ran free and I drained the pot. I'm hearing that the thermostate on the Lyman Mag 20 will not allow you to go much above 700 F. I hope that is not the problem. I'm casting bullets for breech seating in a 32-40 rifle. They need to be a softer alloy like 30 to 1 or 25 to 1. It has been my experience that alloyes that are mostly lead and little of anything else need a high temperature to cast good bullets. Thanks for the reply. Sendaro

  5. #5
    Boolit Bub
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    Bosterr, Forgive me, but what is a PID? Please explain. Sendaro

  6. #6
    Le Loup Solitaire
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    Lyman pot freeze-up

    One factor here that is causing the problem is the 675 degree ceiling on the temp. It is necessary to have a higher temperature capability in order to cast efficiently if the alloy warrants it. You also need a higher temperature to run with a fuller pot level, and if you add sprues or an ingot or two that will lower the melt temp....if you have only 675 for a limit then you will have constant freeze-up probs. It sounds like the thermostat is nor functioning correctly. I would suggest to start investigating a solution in that direction. Pushing a wire/nail up into the spout is usually a remedy for a blockage due to crud/slag/oxides clogging the valve. A torch is a workable fix, but not everyone has a torch around and constantly having to resort to it IMHO is not practical. A PID is a good alternative, according to many casters although I have never had to rig one up. Suggest contacting Lyman for openers and see what their service policy is..also who sold you the unit for possible return and replacement. LLS

  7. #7
    Boolit Bub
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    LLS, I bought the Lyman Mag 20 from Cabela's a few weeks ago. I'll give Lyman a call.

    What is a PID? What is IMHO?

    Sendaro

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
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    I bought a new Lyman Mag 20 pot last year. Had the same spout freeze. I did cure it with a lead thermometer. It was not running hot enough, there is a temp adjustment, pull the adjustment knob off, there is a fine adjustment screw inside the knob shaft, tiny jewellers screwdriver is needed. Think I turned it counter clockwise to increase the temp. Did not have to turn it very much just a partial turn to raise the temperature. Have it set now so when the knob is between 7 and 8 it is about 750 degrees.

  9. #9
    Boolit Bub
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    ronbo, after reading your post I took a look and as you have stated there is a small screw in the center of the shaft that the Temperature knob is on. It appears to me that it is brass and that they have put something on it so that it will not move. Maybe a Lock-tite of some kind. I tried to make it move with a small screw driver but no luck. I may have to find something to desolve the green stuff around the screw head. Got any suggestions? I don't want to mess up the brass screw slot on that adjustment.
    Sendaro

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Sendaro

    there is a temp adjustment, pull the adjustment knob off, there is a fine adjustment screw inside the knob shaft, tiny jewellers screwdriver is needed. Think I turned it counter clockwise to increase the temp. Did not have to turn it very much just a partial turn to raise the temperature. Have it set now so when the knob is between 7 and 8 it is about 750 degrees.


    That is indeed the trick. See if you can break the green stuff loose. Also turn the knob shaft one way or the other as the small screw may be stopped agains the stop also(?).

    Larry Gibson

  11. #11
    Boolit Bub
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    Larry, Thanks for the suggestions. I picked the green Loc-Tite looking stuff off with dental picks and got the small brass screw freed up. It does turn now but I just don't know what way to turn it to make it increase the temperature. I guess that I'll have to do a test run to see if I can get the temperature to come up.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Counter clockwise.

    Larry Gibson

  13. #13
    Boolit Bub
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    Larry,
    Thanks. That is the way that I moved it. Only went a half a turn. Will have to see how that effects the temperature. Hope to have a chance at it today. Thanks to all that have helped with this problem.
    Sendaro

  14. #14
    Boolit Bub
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    I have to say thanks again to you guys!! I made the adjustments to the thermostat as suggested and tested the Mag 20 today. Now can run it as high as 900 degrees with no problem. Ran it at 800 with a near 30 to 1 mix of lead and tin today. It was so easy to get good bullets dropping from my mold that it was a pleasure. I can't thank you guys enough!
    Sendaro
    Last edited by Sendaro; 03-09-2012 at 07:36 AM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check