commercial jackets are easy

[Ronbo256]

"Necker Knobs" is what I always knew them as! got one on my lawnmower so I can drink and mow!

[Houndog]

This is a little OT, but you guys dealing with a part you think has been set with Loctite, just heat the threaded hole part of the connection with a SMALL propane torch or a large solder gun. It will come loose easily. Loctite doesn't tolerate heat well, no matter what grade it ts.

[DukeInFlorida]

Great idea.
Will mess with mine, and will heat that threaded component. That was the one issue with mine.

[Sasquatch-1]

I have seen a lot of people use aluminum for gas checks. Would it work for jackets or won't it draw properly? I know in the short time and small amount of bullets I have swaged I have used a few blazer cases and they seem to work.

[Reload3006]

if annealed it will draw properly. There has been a lot of talk about people trying it. James at ammosmith has used stinger aluminum cases for jackets. Obviously its softer than steel so its not going to blow up your barrel or ring it. However Aluminum is known to oxidize easily. For some this is a concern as Aluminum Oxide is a common abrasive in sand paper. I dont know that I wold be that worried about it personally What would concern me more than anything is fouling what would get it out of your bore? Copper and Brass Ammonia bore cleaners remover that fouling fairly easily. What would get aluminum fouling out I haven't a clue. Being a machinist I know that when aluminum builds up on a cutting tool its all over and requires a trip to a grinder to remove it. I really dont want to grind on my bore LOL ... Maybe someone much smarter than I can answer that one.

[dfreeman]

Ammonia dissolves most metals so the ammonia based cleaners would most likely work.........but then again, I have never tried it.

[GRUMPA]

I grew up around the same field as Reload3006 but mine was more or less in the Precision Grinding aspect of the Machining Industry. Aluminum of ANY type is not something I would consider "IDEAL" jacket material. That stuff has a much lower threshold to heat than most know about. Aluminum basically can and will want to stick to whatever it comes in contact with. While working with Aluminum it will basically melt itself to tooling/grinding wheels so fast it isn't funny.

I'm sure left with no other options and in dire need of something I would consider it, but not until I've exhausted all other means. It's just odd to me that after will say 100 rounds being accelerated down a barrel it isn't noticeable while looking down the barrel that a person doesn't see aluminum stuck to it. I've never done it and I more than likely never will, Working with metals as long as I have in my mind it's a no-no. But if works for you by all means go ahead and have fun with it.

[DukeInFlorida]

I commonly use aluminum as gas check material. The lube that is just ahead of the gas check provides enough lubrication to avoid issues with the aluminum in the barrel.

However, an aluminum jacketed bullet would not have any lubrication, and galling (I think that's a good term) would be evident.

[GerryM]

You probably could coat the finished jacket with one of the coating materials like Moly or danzack. Both should work pretty well. But deep drawing aluminum is something else.

[GerryM]

What a great post guys' Gulding metal jacket are the cadillac of jacket makeing.
The others like copper are quite good also. Just that when useing just copper
you have to also use a different bullet shape. For pistol bullets it's just fine, getting into rifle full length jackets you need a bullet with a long bearing surface to compensate for the material. copper alone slides around quite a bit. Thats why they use the 95 5 C210.
That 5% zinc does alot for a rifle jacket.
The used rifle and pistol cases are really good Brass comes in many alloys.
With the right equipment and technique {like the ones you fellows are useing , } can give some great results.
My compliments to all of you for developing these dies. You have managed to help a lot of shooters'''

[Bwana]

if annealed it will draw properly. There has been a lot of talk about people trying it. James at ammosmith has used stinger aluminum cases for jackets. Obviously its softer than steel so its not going to blow up your barrel or ring it. However Aluminum is known to oxidize easily. For some this is a concern as Aluminum Oxide is a common abrasive in sand paper. I dont know that I wold be that worried about it personally What would concern me more than anything is fouling what would get it out of your bore? Copper and Brass Ammonia bore cleaners remover that fouling fairly easily. What would get aluminum fouling out I haven't a clue. Being a machinist I know that when aluminum builds up on a cutting tool its all over and requires a trip to a grinder to remove it. I really dont want to grind on my bore LOL ... Maybe someone much smarter than I can answer that one.

And all this time I thought that CCI Stingers were nickel plated brass cases. Well, I guess you can learn something new here thanks to Reload3006.

[Reload3006]

And all this time I thought that CCI Stingers were nickel plated brass cases. Well, I guess you can learn something new here thanks to Reload3006.

You are correct I was thinking of Blazer and wrote stinger ... Give me a thousand lashes with a wet noodle

[Bwana]

A small point perhaps; but, as some here say, "We have to keep in mind the noobies."

I have 5000 rnds of Stinger sitting to the right of me. Again, the 3rd FIL. I have also done a bit of work using live Stinger cases, minus bullet and powder, as a basis for "separated round" ammo in a 22lr bolt gun. Using 22 Hornet bullets I managed to safely get to 1800 fps with 40gr bullets. Basically the same as 22 Mag performance. The Bullets had dual diameters, front and rear, and were loaded ahead of the charged case. And to satisfy some here, they were very accurate. Practical? Probably not, but very fun and interesting. The stinger case is the strongest 22lr case out there.

[GerryM]

Fwiw I have friend {Bob} that use to have 22win mag ammo handloaded.
He asked for some 35 and some 40 gr pills to send to the person handloading
the ammo for him. They shot really well makeing the mag shoot small groups at 100yds in light winds. Sad to say the handloader passed away. That was big loss for Bob and other shooters having that done. Maybe someone else will try that and get similar results

[Greg5278]

I would stay away from Brass for Jackets in Pistol Calibers. if I remember correctly, Brass is prohibited if it is beyond a cetain thickness by BATF regulations. The rule doesn't apply to Riflees or Shotguns. It is under the section about Armor piercing ammo. The regs specify jacket composition, and in some cases the Thickness.
Just trying to keep any Problems away.
Greg

[BT Sniper]

I would stay away from Brass for Jackets in Pistol Calibers. if I remember correctly, Brass is prohibited if it is beyond a cetain thickness by BATF regulations. The rule doesn't apply to Riflees or Shotguns. It is under the section about Armor piercing ammo. The regs specify jacket composition, and in some cases the Thickness.
Just trying to keep any Problems away.
Greg

This doesn't apply since we have an open tip to the jacket. If it was FMJ it might be a problem.

Come join us. Shooting brass jackets is the way to go!

BT

[475AR]

BT
PM sent
Thanks
Scott

[Bwana]

I would stay away from Brass for Jackets in Pistol Calibers. if I remember correctly, Brass is prohibited if it is beyond a cetain thickness by BATF regulations. The rule doesn't apply to Riflees or Shotguns. It is under the section about Armor piercing ammo. The regs specify jacket composition, and in some cases the Thickness.
Just trying to keep any Problems away.
Greg

Guess you need to get hold of Remington right away then, their Golden Sabers are brass jacketed.

[alfloyd]

And the Montana Gold bullets are thick brass jacketed and some are FMJ.
How do they get away from the "armor piercing" problem?

Lafaun