How can anyone condemn the primers and go off the deep end when the OP
flatly stated he found the issue was the weapon and not the primers ?
Doesn't anyone read before they make obtuse comments ?
Lots of AARP moments !!!!!!
How can anyone condemn the primers and go off the deep end when the OP
flatly stated he found the issue was the weapon and not the primers ?
Doesn't anyone read before they make obtuse comments ?
Lots of AARP moments !!!!!!
I disassembled the bolt and cleaned everything. ( it felt like it was full of sand ) Still no joy. I just ordered a new firing pin and spring from Numrich. I can't blame the primers as being bad, but CCI primers work just fine. I will think twice about buying more Wolf unless there is a tremendous price or availability difference.
Milkman
Last edited by milkman; 01-27-2012 at 01:33 PM. Reason: spelling
Back in the time between Obamas election and inauguration I bought 30,000 Wolf large pistol primers. I've gone through about half of them in 45/70, 308, 10mm and 45acp and had no problems whatsoever. At $85.00 for a box of five thousand I will keep on keepin on.
Marty-hiding out in the hills.
WOLF is the only ammunition company that provides a 100% Performance Guarantee. If you are not fully satisfied, WOLF will refund your money on the unused portion of the ammunition, including and freight charges.
Click Here For Details ... http://www.wolfammo.com/index.php?op...ask=view&id=93
Regards
John
Never had a problem with Wolf, but the other "W" primers (Winchester) were problematic in my Glock Gen2 model 20. My ultimate conclusion was a hard cup plus striker type ignition was at fault.
I reserved the Winchesters for other guns and my problem disappeared.
I much prefer American Seniors Association and I feel a lot more seniors need to.
http://www.americanseniors.org/
But I do have an ASA moment every now and then. I know I have them because my wife tells me I do.
You guys nailed it again.
Weak firing pin spring or protrusion
I got out a Rem 700 and a Marlin 336 that I have not used the Wolf primers in before and primed 28 empty brass. No failures to fire. So it is would appear not to be BAD primers, just primers VERY DIFFICULT to ignite.
Then you post this: I disassembled the bolt and cleaned everything. ( it felt like it was full of sand ) Still no joy. I just ordered a new firing pin and spring from Numrich. I can't blame the primers as being bad, but CCI primers work just fine. I will think twice about buying more Wolf unless there is a tremendous price or availability difference.
Milkman
HUH? Milkman ??? Is it the weapon or primers? Pick one and stay with it !
Really, if you post something ,stay focused and be consistent. I think (and take this personally if you must)... there is operator error included in your drama.
I wish you well whatever the problem is.
Last edited by waksupi; 01-28-2012 at 02:09 AM. Reason: is the problem
Take it easy, milprileb, and watch the acronyms (read the forum rules carefully). Debugging a problem like this is a process, not a command decision. Milkman has narrowed it down to the firing system, now he's taking the next step and swapping out some parts (once they arrive), it all takes time.
-HF
What's wrong with using acronyms? We use them all the time.
- MikeS
Want to checkout my feedback? It's here:
http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/...d.php?t=136410
good luck with that. I tried emailing them 3 times about my primers missing anvils and never heard a word back from them. It amazes me guys will jump down the throat of anyone badmouthing wolf ammo or primers. Dont ever forget guys that this company is making money selling ammo to enemys of this country and some of it is used to kill americans. Funny thing is that if an american company produces junk theres people standing in line to bash it. I may be a hipocrit as ive boughten it too but i dont buy anything while wearing rose colared glasses. Ill be the first to call junk junk. Like i said i cant vouch for your lot of wolf primers but i actually tested mine over the chronograph and they were weak and inconsistant. If you want the cheapest possible primer and your major consern with your handloads is that they go bang go for it. Just dont harbor any misconceptions about these being match grade primers.
Last edited by Lloyd Smale; 01-28-2012 at 06:07 AM.
Be careful with Marlin lever guns. Never dry fire them unless you have the one with the push through safety and it is on safe or you could break the firing pin.
I had the hammer get away from me on a brand new Marlin and it broke the pin with just the one strike, pain having to make a new one.
It needs a primer and I would not double strike a fired primer either.
Every time I type "boolit" it is underlined for wrong spelling!
I don't know what an acronym is anyway, have to look it up. Too long out of school!
At my house,,, it is a jumble of meaningless letters that some people use to confuse and irritate people.
I know what Beagler and a few of the other made up words mean but using them sure does confuse the new people.-
Edit:
Who is it that asks the most questions on this site?
Why would people wish to confuse them.
Just my two worthless aluminum pennies.
Last edited by Longwood; 01-28-2012 at 04:21 PM.
I've shot lots of them in various 1911s. Just happened to shoot some in a striker-fired Ruger SR-9 that was 100% with Winchester Small Pistol primers, and the first magazine had several light strikes. As the day warmed up the problems disappeared.
I'm thinking Wolf are hard primers - not a problem unless you want to shoot them in a striker pistol that has had a trigger job.
That IS a good thing to remember. But then you need to also remember that the exact same thing can be said of GE, a company everyone thinks is American as apple pie, but they go to great lengths to go around export restrictions, etc. so they can sell to ANYONE, even enemies of this country!
And Tula primers (same company as Wolf) while being made in Russia, are imported by an American company, and in my case being sold by an American veteran, so most of the profits made in their sale is in fact going to Americans, even if the commies (or ex-commies as we're supposed to believe now) are the original makers of the primers.
I like to buy American when I can, but not if it means I have to spend double or more than I would if I bought other stuff. Just another reason I think the Unions have killed manufacturing in this country.
- MikeS
Want to checkout my feedback? It's here:
http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/...d.php?t=136410
geez! now even commy primers are being blamed on the unions!!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |