Upside down boolets in the star sizer???

[Ray Z]

I'm sure that this has been beat to death but I can't find it in a search. Now I'm going to show my age and the age of my equipment. The way my star sizer is set up I put the bullets in base first. In order to reverse the bullets I would have to get 10-12 new top punches. Which is better? By putting the bullets in front first will the base if the boolet be deformed? I understand that the base is the most important part, since it leaves the barrel last. Is this a false concern?

[454PB]

All my Star dies size nose first, and I've seen no deformation. Perhaps when reducing a large amount there might be some "finning" on the base.

Are you saying you size for 10-12 different diameters? If so, you can use a slightly smaller diameter punch. For instance, a punch designed for .40 caliber can also be used for .44 and .45 caliber. I've read where some Star owners used .357 punches for .452 boolits.......I don't think I'd do that, but it apparently works.

[Ray Z]

Let's see,.309,.356,.358,.401,.429,.452. I lied, only 6 but I 'v got a boatload of top punches for various bullet shapes.

[ReloaderFred]

I've also got a whole drawer full of top punches and I sometimes still use them in my Star machines, but most of my sizing is done nose first these days. For your selection of calibers, it could be done with 3 flat top punches, .300", .350" and .400". That would cover those ranges rather nicely. You could add a .420" if you wanted to, but it probably wouldn't be necessary.

Hope this helps.

Fred

[Casting Timmy]

Just use the punches you have and size nose first if you want too. I have the old style top punches too and just use them with nose first sizing.

[jeeedbb]

Just got my new used sizer off e-bay. Had the same question. Thanks for the info.

The manual shows 1983, have there been any changes since then?

[cbrick]

Just got my new used sizer off e-bay. Had the same question. Thanks for the info.

The manual shows 1983, have there been any changes since then?

Welcome to CastBoolits jeeedbb,

In 1983 the company was Star Machine Works, San Diego, CA. Today the company is owned by Magma in AZ but in the machine very little to no actual changes. Star's from San Diego are all painted blue while Magma Star's are unpainted. Parts interchange.

Magma for a while used an "O" ring on the dies but if I'm not mistaken they dropped that modification.

Rick

[engineer401]

I received a brand new sizer from Magma last month. This unit has O rings.

[cbrick]

I received a brand new sizer from Magma last month. This unit has O rings.

Thanks, I knew I had read that somewhere but had not seen it for myself so stated it the way I did.

Had it for a month now, how ya like it so far?

Rick

[engineer401]

Thanks, I knew I had read that somewhere but had not seen it for myself so stated it the way I did.

Had it for a month now, how ya like it so far?

Rick

One of the reasons I joined this forum is because there is so much information regarding the Star sizer here. I have been able to take advantage of a lot advice here. The sizer is just a bit particular. I am working the details out. Thus far I like it better than the Lyman 4500 I was using. The machining on the Magma is terrific, not so with the Lyman. I wanted a Magma from the beginning but was too cheap at first. I knew better, but....... I purchased two dies with the Magma. I purchased a die from eBay that was advertised as .357. It turns out to be .360. Again, I knew better, but........ Lastly, I purchased two dies from Lathesmith which are beautifully constructed. When I need more I will ask him to make them. As for the O rings, I don't have much of an opinion yet. Every time I remove a die from the machine, I take a little of the O ring with it. I tried to use Magma dies without the O rings and experienced some lube squeezing at the top and bottom. There wasn't much lube. Wiping the sizer with a paper towel would keep things clean. I haven't tried this with the Lathesmith dies yet. I use a Lyman heater with a dimmer switch. A cheap thermometer helps me keep the temperature consistent. The next thing is the air pressure attachment. Right now I'm having fun figuring out how to get things perfect or close to it. Next step is to cast more bullets to keep working it.

[cbrick]

Do yourself a huge favor, get the air cylinder.

I put off getting one for years, kept telling myself that I wasn't a commercial caster and didn't do enough bullets to warrant it. One day a few years ago I was on the Magma web site and there it was so I bought it. When it arrived and I tried it out I was in shock, for days all I could mutter was "what was I thinking? Why didn't I get one of these years ago?"

Wow, what a difference it makes. A couple of years after that I bought a second Star used, before I had the chance to go pick it up I had a second air cylinder on the bench waiting for it.

Rick

[engineer401]

I plan to get an air attachment soon. I have a small, quiet air compressor to use. It's matter of finding the money. I spent quite already. I may have to let the wallet cool off some. But I will get one as soon as I can. Thanks for the advice.

[G__Fred]

1) Nose Down! STD bolt for press (flat surface to flat surface), GO GO GO!!!

2) Air Attachnent - I went to "Craig's List", secured a 10 gal air tank verse a compressor ($15.00). Go to the gas station and for $2.00 have a tank @ 120 lbs.!

[jeeedbb]

Thanks cbrick.

[Defcon-One]

I always liked the Star sizer FOR the fact that it was nose first. My theory is simple, if it is going through the barrel of the gun Nose First doesn't it make sense to size/lube it Nose First. That keeps all the flow in one direction.

Also, I only need three punches to do everything that I cast and nose style is never an issue. I agree with G Fred, "flat surface to flat surface" just works better.

[bosterr]

I currently own a "San Diego" Star sizer. How does the new "Magma" Star compare in quality and operation? Just curious in case I want to add another one.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

in 2010, I bought used star (from the 80s) with a handfull of dies and top punches. most of the top punches are are the nose type. I bought a couple of dies from Lathesmith as well as several flat top punches.

I gotta say, when the nose type top punch fits perfectly, (like one I have for a 44 SWC from a Saeco 441 mold) It's a joy to size base first in the star. But mostly I size with a flat top punch doing so Nose first.
Jon