Optical lens for rear peep (SR MicroSight - Phased Zone Plate)

[tonyjones]

ohland,

Please post some photos when you're done.

Thanks,

TJ

[Von Gruff]

And not only results but if it if you have shot this combo without the micro sight installed compared to with, would be interesting.

Von Gruff.

[ohland]

Comedy of errors. Turned a replacement FP base mounting screw today (Williams used a 8-40 with a .200" diameter head!), found the Williams sight pusher (hooray!!!), yet to hack away at the stock to accept the sight.

Picked up some SR4759 for my 6mm Friday.

[ohland]

Ordered a Williams FP Deluxe Target High for the Rem 540XR, sight is in transit. Snap, delivery is scheduled for Friday, by end of day. Long weekend starts very early Friday morning... Must remember to ask range personnel for an M9 front sight adjustment tool....

Anyways, the 540XR is a good candidate for the MicroSight, very accurate rifle.

PS. Brownell's usual price was @90$, dealer price was @70$, Midway normal price was @71. Go figure.

[ohland]

OK, the old saying that length isn't everything is FALSE.

My dad was totally unable to get the Merit Target sight to work for him on his 540XR, due to bad eyesight. Went downstairs, rummaged about, pulled out my Micro-Sight, unscrewed the windage screw, took off the stock Williams aperture housing, threaded on the 1/4x32 drilled housing, and came to a full stop. The normal shank for the Micro-Sight is full threads right into the cylindrical optics housing. The Micro-Sight in the original form will not fit no-way no-how into a Williams aperture housing.

Careless measuring shows that the Williams apertures have an unthreaded shank .100" long that spaces the disc @ .030 past the edge of the windage arm. Rear end of aperture housing is @ .070" from rear edge of windage arm. Already sent a note toStallings Machine, asking if they could do a Micro-Sight with a .100" unthreaded shank extension.

[catmandu]

ohland,
How about an update?
How well does the microsight work?

Paul in WNY

[mtnman31]

I'm interested as well.
I've shot some High power and always have felt that some folks have an advantage in that they simply see better than others.

[catmandu]

Bump

Gentlemen, I really would like to hear how well did this work for you?

What would you do if you had a do-over?

Thanks,

Paul in WNY

[skeettx]

Me also
Thanks
Mike

[JLK]

I know this is mainly aimed at the rifle shooter but I wonder if the Microsight lens could be placed in to the center of a pair of shooting glasses and used for shooting a pistol with open sights?
JLK

[Jon K]

I know this is mainly aimed at the rifle shooter but I wonder if the Microsight lens could be placed in to the center of a pair of shooting glasses and used for shooting a pistol with open sights?
JLK

Merit makes a lens disc...see post #5 this thread.

Jon

[imashooter2]

I'm interested as well.
I've shot some High power and always have felt that some folks have an advantage in that they simply see better than others.

As it has been for time immemorial.

I'd like to hear some first hand reports on this lens myself...

[BD]

I'd also like to hear how this worked out. I've been hearing rumors of this sight for two years, but have yet to find one I could look through.
BD

[ohland]

Gods, what a nutroll, BUT it does fit. The insurmountable problem was how to screw the 1/4-32 Micro-Sight boss into an aperture housing and NOT have the exterior of the Micro-Sight housing run into the back of the Williams windage arm. This was not too difficult, BUT it took a bit of thinking, and thinking without alcohol HURTS. Start to finish, @ 1 hour. Most of that was setting up the fixture, finding the tap, and the target knobs, and figuring out how to fully seat the knobs over the ball bearings (having a 4" vice, or bigger, is good!)

Grab yourself a Williams 5/16 "Big Game" aperture. I used my small hole gage, and it comes out at .308 ish. Get yourself a foot of K&S Engineering #3062, 5/16 OD aluminum tubing (mics about .308 ish), with a wall thickness of .049". A 7/32 stub drill to clean up the ID. Brownells for a 1/4-32 tapered tap (yeah, aluminum likes thread forming taps, but $$$...).

The tubing snugly fits in the aperture so good it is scary. Note that the aperture has a windage mark stamped at the 6 o'clock position, this seemed to be the reason the aluminum tubing would only go in one way. Just install the aperture "backwards".

Using my trusty rotary table, and an MT2 ER-32 chuck, I co-ax'd a 5/16 drill bit to less than a thousandth off. Chucked the aluminum tube up in a lathe and hack sawed about .550 inch off. Chucked it onto the ER-32, (cut edge up) drilled it out to 7/32, then tapped it to 1/4-32. NOTE: Aluminum prefers a light touch when tapping with a normal, fluted tap, so I used a "sensitive" tap wrench with the sliding arbor, not my normal spring loaded point.

Tap went right into the tubing, no binding. Used Tap-Magic for aluminum, but any aluminum friendly tapping fluid should do (WD-40). Tubing did not slip in ER-32 chuck.

Took a file, cleaned off the flash from the hacksawing, and popped it out. Screwed the Micro-Sight into the arbor, then pushed the arbor into the aperture, using the workbench. Added the short knobs (upgraded a non-TK version) and momentarily lost one ball bearing and the teeny spring.

The Big Game aperture and the non-TK version of the Williams FP sorta cramps your fingertips when using the elevation knob. If you are into Silhouette, spring for the FP-TK version.The Big Game aperture is wider than the stock aperture, so you loose some windage. If you really need all of it, I suppose you could mill some clearance on the underside of the aperture on each side.

What would / could I do? Well, since it was in a ER-32 chuck, I could have pulled the threaded arbor out, turned it end for end, and drilled out the forward end to 1/4 inch. There are a number of flat black finishes which could be used to coat the inside of the arbor, reducing reflection (old timers, remember Em-New?)

For those with a lathe, yes you can turn a stepped arbor, to go from 7/32-40 OD to 1/4-32 ID. BUT my way can be done with a fair degree of precision and IMHO, is fairly idiot proof. If one really wanted to go minimalist, you could probably use .035 walls, and skip the 7/32 tap drill. Buy a cheap collet block and a 5/16 collet.

Attachment 61534

Side

Attachment 61535

Rear

Attachment 61536

Top

Attachment 61582

[ohland]

Well, found a nice light load of IMR 4895 for Sierra 130 gr HPBTs. Need to find some of my iron sights. Got a .810 Lipski barrel band, some front sight blocks, an extra globe sight (Williams?), and this FP-TC with the Micro-Sight, and another FP-TC, with a normal 7/32 aperture (with a Merit #3 Target disc).

Start with a short block, these non-TK sights have a shorter elevation stem.

[ohland]

Well, the best laid plans of mice and men...

In short, the G2 frame has those strengthening webs. The original Contender doesn't.... So the original G1 sight has the Micro-Sight and the new TC sight has the Merit #3.

About time the 6.8 gets some mild loads. Jacketed for now.

[ohland]

Nice thing about leaving the mill setup in place is that a little touch up is easy.

Attachment 61585
Trusty Grizzly 0463 / Sieg X3 and it's little friend, the rotary table and MT2 ER-32 collet chuck. Once dialed in with a co-ax, lock the ways down... Don't forget to tighten the gib locks for the table down while indicating, because the table does move a teeny bit when you lock er down. At least mine does... Also make sure the table locks on the rotary table are locked down before indicating.

Attachment 61589

Top view, measured the aperture housing (.440) and the windage arm width (.620), 620 - 440, divided by 2 to get .090 distance on each side of aperture. Measured width of aperture plus arbor, then popped arbor out to measure it separately. Found arbor was .571, a wee bit over. Chucked the arbor back into the collet chuck, and tried to face with a 5/16 mill. Wrong answer, the mill was so close to the diameter, that it pushed up a rim of flash around the circumference. Changed to a 1/2" mill, and it cut square with no flash.

Attachment 61587

Much closer to the windage arm. I turned the arbor end for end, and faced off the front end, so that the OAL of the arbor was .495. I have about .030 to play with. A few turns with a case deburring tool to knock the straight 90 degree edge off, and it slides tightly back in. At this point, I see no need for any Loctite or other adhesive.

Attachment 61588

From the side, at an angle.

Attachment 61586

From the rear. Facing the arbor sure makes it look cleaner. If you want to use the arbor without the Micro-Sight, something must be done to knock the shiny flash down. Dykem or other layout fluid should do.

[imashooter2]

Thanks for resurecting this thread. Looking forward to a usage report.

[ohland]

Forlornly looking for frugal Hornady 110gr V-Max. Looks to be Sierra 1810 100 gr Pro Hunters.

[markinalpine]

ohland,
I think birchwood-Casey makes an Aluminum Black chemical.
Mark

UPDATE: Here it is at their web-site: http://sport.birchwoodcasey.com/Fini...a-8820790beefb