I have a couple sample bottles of Bullplate but no instructions. I see the instructions referenced so was wondering if someone could share them here, please?
I have a couple sample bottles of Bullplate but no instructions. I see the instructions referenced so was wondering if someone could share them here, please?
in short make a boolit nock off sprue dont open mold put lube on bottom of sprue plate
and on top of mold open mold put on leeder pins
(just use a small amount on a Qtip)
kids that hunt and fish dont mug old ladies
Bull Plate
Sprue Plate Lubricant
Instructions:
• Bring the mould up to casting temperature and fill cavities with alloy.
• Be sure to have complete base fill out to avoid getting Bull Plate in the cavities.
• Cut the sprue and keep the blocks together with boolits in the cavities.
• Lightly dampen a Q-tip with Bull Plate and spread a light film of lube on the mould block top surface and bottom of sprue plate. (*tip* before opening bottle – shake it, then use the small amount left in the cap to put on the Q-tip – it just takes a little)
• With a clean Q-tip wipe away any excess lube from both surfaces, only a very small amount is needed.
• Also apply to alignment pins and hinge pins.
• New or very clean moulds may require more than one treatment. Reapply at the first sign of any drag on the opening or closing sprue plate.
• Repeat procedure at the beginning of each casting session.
bullshop@wildak.net
Thanks guys, I'm getting the clear message a tiny bit goes a long way. I have 1 and a 1/2 sample bottles. This should last a long while for me.
Most of the time, I can just hold up one of my molds to the bottle of Bullplate and wave it over the top and that does me for an entire casting session. If I need more lube, I just tap the sprue plate against the side of the Bullplate bottle.
Now, if I'm using multiple molds, sometimes I have to wet about 1/128th of an inch of the tip of a toothpick and then use that to LIGHTLY smear on the sprue plates and hinge pins.
Even then, sometimes I use too much.
Seems that Bullpate is no longer made---I researched a bit and found that a close substitute is 50% STP/ 50% two Cycle oil. I have yet to try it...FWIW...
As far as I know Bullplate is still made. It is not mass produced though. I believe that the guy who makes it is either in Alaska or Canada. Someone on here will provide an email address to him I believe. If not I will dig through my paperwork and see if I can help you further. Good Luck, Steve
Oh, here you go one of the first couple of guys who responded earlier has the email address. bullshop@wildak.net
Last edited by metweezer; 09-16-2011 at 04:55 PM. Reason: email address
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Does this mean that I need to cut back on usage as I only have 3 small bottles left?
You boys gonna draw them pistols or whistle Dixie
NRA ENDOWMENT MEMBER
"The gods do not deduct from man's allotted span the hours spent fishing."
------Babylonian Proverb
Glad I ordered four on my initial order. Now my Grandkids will be all set, that is once I have some and they get old enough to cast....
Ken TN
NRA Handgun Instructor and Endowment Member
IHMSA, SASS, NRA Field Pistol
Ken, Out of the 4 you are bound to tip at least 2 over. Don't ask how I know. LOL Somewhere on here there are photos of a small home made bottle holder. I put what was left of mine in a flat bottom dropper bottle. RD
“A wise and frugal government, which shall leave men free to regulate their own pursuits of industry and improvement, and shall not take from the mouth of labor the bread it has earned - this is the sum of good government.”
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The trick is to order Alot of NOE moulds as they all come with the sample bottle , I still have 5 untouched and 6 2 oz bottles in the loading room so I should be ok for a little while I suspect !!! Hopefully Bullshop will be back up and around sooner than later .
yep got two of them bottls from bullshop and two from MP
i think im set
kids that hunt and fish dont mug old ladies
I've tested Bullplate against several 2-cycle oils all of which were thinner in consistency and did not last as long. In other words, I found myself constantly wiping underneath the sprue plate with the others and even the best fully synthetic 2-cycle oil readily available in my area (Stihl HP) didn't provide the same level of protection against lead sticking to aluminum mold blocks at high temperatures.
Perhaps STP is the key... I haven't tried it yet.
MJ
most all 2 cycle oils are "pre" diluted with a solvent which thins the oil and allows faster mixing into gasoline. Without the solvent they are thick in the SAE 40 range.
also 2 cyle oils come in ashless for marine and a medium ash (means it has a metalic additve in it that form an ash when burned) for motor cyle/saw/scooter.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |