dry case lube for neck sizing

[TonyM]

I'm trying to find a dry case lube to use with neck sizing...

I've read about guys using small shot and lithium to "dip" their case necks into, but I'm not sure where to source the lithium (Or is there something better?)... is that something an auto parts store would have? Maybe home depot/Lowes?

Thanks...

[462]

When full length sizing, I use mica (motor mica) to lubricate the insides of case mouths. Midway sells a kit that has the mica and nylon brushes in all the common sizes.

A Lee collet neck sizer eliminates having to lubricate the case mouth.

[pmer]

I have tried Imperial Dry Neck Lube a couple times now and it seems pretty good. You dip the case mouth in and neck size. It's a graphite based powder that doesn't contaminate gun powder and doesn't have to be removed from the case either.

The part # is IMP-D in the Sinclair catalog.

[largom]

I only neck size all of my cases until I have to full length size. I have a small container of small [#8 ?] shot that also contains Molybdenum Disulfide [MoS2]. For use just shake the container before opening and the insert case neck into the shot and twist. The shot will give a light coating of moly inside and outside of the neck. You could use just plain grafite instead of the moly.

Larry

[higgins]

Powdered graphite inside the neck, applied with a nylon brush. My handle is an RCBS tool made for this, but any other handle would work, and any nylon bore brush of appropriate diameter would do.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Motor mica works well as does powdered graphite....the kind used in/on locks. You dip and then tap to get the excess off, well at least most of it. its pretty smudgey stuff and gets on everything and anything, but it makes the neck sizing smooth and cuts down wear on the expander button and the die as well. It doesn't make for a good looking case, but it can be wiped clean when the round is completed. LLS

[flashhole]

I use powdered graphite with a small container of #9 shot as shown in the photo.
The electric toothbrush (minus the brush) is used to settle powder in the case.

[Baron von Trollwhack]

Apply a very thin coating of LEE resizing die lube. It is a microcrystalline wax, dries completely, can be applied very sparingly and does not dirty the bore.

As a matter of fact I use it to very lightly tumble lube all jacketed bullets I use in my 7.5 Swiss straightpull rifle. I do not lube the inside of the case necks. Just got tired of smutty applications and found this WORKS ! Water soluble for washing your hands off. I truly believe it enhances accuracy in Most j-bullet applications.

BvT

[Kevin Rohrer]

Imperial Dry Neck Lube.

No need to remove it after sizing, either, as it won't contaminate the powder or primer.

[Wayne Smith]

I use the shot and graphite idea too, but in an old medicine bottle - it has a lid!

[azrednek]

If you're doing a large amount of bottle neck cartridges you may want to consider the Hornady carbide neck expander and avoid the lube altogether. They also make them to fit RCBS dies if you're not using Hornady dies. The inside of the necks come out bright and shiny. I used one for years in my RCBS 223 to load thousands back in my Class 3 days. Never had to lube a single case. Unfortunately I loaned it out and never got it back. Here is the Hornady link to the RCBS type.
http://www.hornady.com/store/RCBS-Expander-Assembly/

[KohlerK91]

Imperial neck lube is what I use her too. Picked it up cheap along the way. I work great for NECK sizing. Would not recomend it for FL sizing. Instead of using the applicator media I had some glass beeds on hand. Put some in a small baby food jar with some of the lube and works great. This is all the lube you need when you are nek sizing. I use the bushing neck dies and there is minimal for required for this operation.

[milprileb]

Hornady used to make the carbide expanders for their dies, they do not anymore. Oddly, they offer it for RCBS dies.

Now... 30 some bucks for it plus changing to a RCBS die and you got 60 bucks into the transition so keep $$$ cost in mind.

Mica and the mess with it might be a easier option and far cheaper.

[onondaga]

I use this inexpensive kit for all my calibers from 22 -.458 . It comes with mica but you can use graphite if you like. The stiff brushes remove powder fouling and shine the inside of case mouths as well as dry lube. Bullet seating will be noticeably smoother and more consistent. My source:

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=197010

Frankford Arsenal Case Neck Lubricator

A clean inside neck is very important for consistent neck sizing. Lubricating alone is not enough for me and this kit does both very well simultaneously..



Gary

[TonyM]

Thanks for all the input guys...

When I was first searching for dies for my rifle (338 Lapua), I don't think I recall seeing any carbide dies.... but RCBS does make them... I think that may be the route I'm going to go....

[onondaga]

Hey Tony! you asked about dry case lube! Now you are changing routes and looking to try carbide dies? how about reviewing why you wanted to try case neck lube?

Carbide dies will not solve the problem if you have powder fouling and / or tumble polishing compound fouling the insides of your case necks. Sure the carbide die parts will go by the fouling easier but the fouling is still left there to give you inconsistent neck tension when seating your boolits. The fouling will still be there to give you a false oversize measurement of your case neck O.D. and false undersize I.D.

I suggest reviewing why you wanted to try inside case neck dry lube and really figure what the problem is. It is usually crud inside the necks that causes reloaders to want to try that kind of lube because of the problems that the crud causes. Press operating arm movement drags when you hit crud with your dies. It can be a scratchy feeling or an increase in force is needed to function the die.. It can be boolits tipping when you attempt to seat them.

I began using the Frankford kit when abrasive crud in my brass wore out an expander bell on a FL sizing die to the point that boolit seating became difficult because the worn expander was not expanding the case mouth enough and the operation began to take noticeably more muscle to do with a galled and worn expander.

I replaced the die part that I had worn out prematurely with powder fouling and polishing compound crud. Then I got the kit and followed the easy instructions. 4000 rounds later I have no wear on the expander , and boolit seating is smooth and easy.

Briefly to use the kit: dip a case-mouth in the mica every 4th round, but push every case down and pull it off the brush once . I do this before I put the case in the shell holder to size. The little packet of mica that comes with the kit has lasted me many thousand rounds and is half full..

If you were having rough press movement sizing and neck tension all over the place because of crud, difficulty seating boolits because of crud giving a false size on your brass... this kit is an inexpensive easy fix. Match shooters use this kit just for the advantage of consistent neck tension it delivers by brushing and lubing the inside of case-mouths.

I use the Frankford kit for every caliber I load FL or neck sizing. It includes a set of brushes that covers .22-.458, a dip well with threaded brush holder and a packet of mica

Gary

[Char-Gar]

When I started reloading my mentor gave me a typewriter ribbon can (remember those) that was about half full of powdered graphite. I would stick the case neck into the graphite and tap it on the inside top of the can and run it through the sizing die. Worked to perfection.

[TonyM]

Hey Tony! you asked about dry case lube! Now you are changing routes and looking to try carbide dies? how about reviewing why you wanted to try case neck lube?

Carbide dies will not solve the problem if you have powder fouling and / or tumble polishing compound fouling the insides of your case necks. Sure the carbide die parts will go by the fouling easier but the fouling is still left there to give you inconsistent neck tension when seating your boolits. The fouling will still be there to give you a false oversize measurement of your case neck O.D. and false undersize I.D.

I suggest reviewing why you wanted to try inside case neck dry lube and really figure what the problem is. It is usually crud inside the necks that causes reloaders to want to try that kind of lube because of the problems that the crud causes. Press operating arm movement drags when you hit crud with your dies. It can be a scratchy feeling or an increase in force is needed to function the die.. It can be boolits tipping when you attempt to seat them.

I began using the Frankford kit when abrasive crud in my brass wore out an expander bell on a FL sizing die to the point that boolit seating became difficult because the worn expander was not expanding the case mouth enough and the operation began to take noticeably more muscle to do with a galled and worn expander.

I replaced the die part that I had worn out prematurely with powder fouling and polishing compound crud. Then I got the kit and followed the easy instructions. 4000 rounds later I have no wear on the expander , and boolit seating is smooth and easy.

Briefly to use the kit: dip a case-mouth in the mica every 4th round, but push every case down and pull it off the brush once . I do this before I put the case in the shell holder to size. The little packet of mica that comes with the kit has lasted me many thousand rounds and is half full..

If you were having rough press movement sizing and neck tension all over the place because of crud, difficulty seating boolits because of crud giving a false size on your brass... this kit is an inexpensive easy fix. Match shooters use this kit just for the advantage of consistent neck tension it delivers by brushing and lubing the inside of case-mouths.

I use the Frankford kit for every caliber I load FL or neck sizing. It includes a set of brushes that covers .22-.458, a dip well with threaded brush holder and a packet of mica

Gary

... I think I'll try both. That kit does look like it would work pretty well... I'm just trying to cut a potentially needless step I guess. That being said, it is sounding like it may be a necessary step...

I will try them both, and see if the results are much different i my application. These cases are fairly rigid, and the case hangs in the die pretty tough as it is... The carbide die AND the dry lube should, if nothing else, solve the problem...


Thanks again for all the input...

[QUON]

midwayusa sell a mica kit with brushes that i have used for years on the inside of the neck. also found some carbide expanders for my most used sizing dies. both cuts the drag down a whole lot.