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Thread: Necessity of Tin

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
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    5

    Necessity of Tin

    Hi there-

    I'm looking at Rotometals for some of what they have, and they have an lead/antimony mix that is about 4-6% antimony. From the bumpo hardness calculator, it looks like it'll average out to 13-15 for hardness. My concern is the tin, as I've seen people mention that tin makes it easier when it comes to filling the mold (or makes it fill better). I'm attracted to this because it is 90 cent less per pound that Lyman #2. I'd be using the boolits for 158 gr SWC with my 357. What do you guys think? Thanks!

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

    imashooter2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    PA
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    7,957
    I think I'd wander over to the Swapin' and Sellin' section and get 60 pounds of WW for $65 delivered...

    No affiliation with any members selling, just have a hard time buying virgin alloy.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    189
    I agree with the WW. Thats what I use. If I have more tin ill put it in but to me its not required.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    God's country - WI.
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    941
    Tin is not absolutely required but it really does help the mould fill out. Some blocks need the help more than others. If you're feeling flush add tin to your WWs - even 2% tin can make a world of difference in how your casting session goes. I personally like tin and use it in my mixes but then I have some in stock from back when it was cheaper.
    Uncle R.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy Nora's Avatar
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    Mar 2009
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    Boontulie MN USA
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    My preference is to use straight ww. Tin may not be required but it makes my molds fill out much easier for me. It doesn't take a lot either. I use the 95/5 lead free solder from the hard ware store. I use muffin tins to make my ingots with, which normally weigh about 1 3/4# each. For each muffin added to the pot I'll add about and inch and a half of solder. The role I get I'd guess to be about 3/16" or so.

    Nora
    If you don't have the time to do it right, when are you going to find the time to fix it?

  6. #6
    Boolit Master evan price's Avatar
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    Try some regular wheel weight lead first..some molds don't need the tin. Tin helps the lead flow into the tight crevices of the mold and makes the bullet better defined. Like making tin soldiers.. that fine detail wouldn't turn out with just lead.
    If you have a fairly basic mold and don't need precise crisp sharp lines regular clip WW are just fine. Try it first like that and only add tin if you find the mold wants it.
    Due to market fluctuations I am no longer buying range scrap jackets.

    Sic gorgiamus allos subjectatos nunc

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
    blackbike's Avatar
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    that`s right

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
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    As already noted, most of the time, straight clip ww cast fine in most molds. The add'n. of a small amount of tin never hurts, but sometimes doesn't help much either.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
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