I'm about out of the lube I've been using. I remember something about a member here that makes lube and sells some on EBAY maybe? Could you refresh my memory?
I'm about out of the lube I've been using. I remember something about a member here that makes lube and sells some on EBAY maybe? Could you refresh my memory?
A good lube is in the Mold section on Ebay. Seller goes by Whitelabellube. I saw some closing soon. I've used his product for BPCR and it was worth buying. Not too much money either.
Whitelabellube and Lars45 if memory serves me right are one in the same.
Ken.
Ken.
Be nice if it was better, but it could be worse
Lars45 and Bullshop, both members here, both good people.
You will not go wrong with any and you will never waste money on the factory junk once you try Lar's lube.
His lube goes under the name of White Label Lube. Don't get the wrong stuff!
Yep, and he's also a good guy who will answer your questions. The lube of his that twirks my twigger is called "2700."
White label, that is.
Bought some of Lar's lube off Ebay tonight.
Now what's the best way to clean out the remains of hard lube from my lube/sizer? I though of taking it apart and heating it with a propane torch gently to melt it out.
Ted H the best way that I have found is to put the lube sizer in a bucket and pour boling water in the resevor and melt it out that way a tourch might do something to the inside if it has some plstic parts in it like the star luber does 44Woody
I have had good results, with both the RCBS or Lyman as well as the Star LUBER/SIZER, with a simple hair dryer. It is plenty hot enough and does a thorough job. Just take the dies out, place the body of the sizer (after removing the piston, etc from the "fill well") in a container to catch the lube (a cardboard box works fine if you seal the edges with tape). It doesn't take very long at all.
Dale53
Last edited by Dale53; 12-27-2006 at 01:24 AM.
Take a mechanics light with a 150 watt bulb. Set it next to the lubesizer, walk away and in 15 minutes it will have poured out. Make sure you catch the melted lube in something other than your bench or the floor.
I just unbolt it from the bench and dip the whole lubrisizer into a pot of boiling water and it runs right out & floats to the top to be recovered later for fluxing. If you hit the sizer with a paper towel as it comes out of the water, its clean again.
Ive tried the RED lube and like it but I dont know who makes it then there is the blue lube. BLUE is best of all and thats from LBT.Then there is the Lee brown ALOX and thats made be Lee Precision and this is wonderful stuff that falls into the same catagory as BLUE.
Out of here once again,
Little Joe
I foresee a fire if you try the torch. Boiling would be my choice.
Be a good time to replace any O rings in your lubrisizer, too. They are cheap enough to replace on general principles while you have it apart and cleaned up.
Sometimes you gotta wonder if democracy is such a good idea.
Yeah, I have new o-rings for the piston. The bottom leaks no matter what I do. I have just learned to live with it.
TEDH
put a gasket under the bottom,i used old intertube .
laid the rubber down & cut around the base
on more leak from the bottom.
if you use carnauba red 95f to 110f & hou wont have to use alot of pressure.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |