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Thread: depth to diameter ratio?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master nanuk's Avatar
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    depth to diameter ratio?

    I may have found some heavy walled pipe.

    this stuff is about 8" in diameter and about 1/4 - 3/8 in thick. (can't get close enough to measure, yet)

    I am thinking of one for smelting small lots, and perhaps one for casting.

    they should be just the right size to mount a stove circular element underneath. or to sit on a propane burner

    Just wondering others experience at the depth to make one. I'm thinking 1-1 would work well...

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Von Gruff's Avatar
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    I would think that 8 in of depth would suit most smaller smelting sessions. There will be those who could tell you the weight of ww it will smelt but I would think you should get close to 100lb from it.
    If youy are going to use a propane burner yopu might think of cutting the pipe 10 inches long and put the base 2 in up from the bottom so you create a skirt to make the best use of the gas heat.

    This one is only 5 1/4 in dia and 3 1/2 in deep and holds 25lb. The bottom is dished as it was an old propane tank and the skirt ( slotted over the propane burners bars) takes less time to heat and less to maintain that heat.



    Von Gruff.
    Von Gruff.

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  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
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    I made mine from an eight inch section of eight inch pipe. When smelting wheelweights, somewhere around 65 pounds is a full load. I bought some mystery boolits at a scrapyard, (nothing of a size that I could use) and all 95 pounds fit in the pot, with room to stir while fluxing.

    Robert

  4. #4
    Boolit Master nanuk's Avatar
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    thanks guys

    that helps lots

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Doc Highwall's Avatar
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    Talking

    Von Gruff, has a nice design for holding in the heat.
    Lead weighs 23+ lbs a qt. and I think your 8" pipe would be good for smelting.
    Look through the old posts for a bottom pouring smelter there are a lot of great ideas there.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    dragonrider's Avatar
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    Mine is just about what you are talking about. You should be just fine with that.
    Paul G.
    Once I was young, now I am old and in between went by way to fast.

    The end move in politics is always to pick up a gun.
    -- R. Buckminster Fuller

  7. #7
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    Mine is made from 8" steel pipe, 7" deep, with a 1/2" steel plate welded to the bottom. It holds right at 100 pounds of molten lead, but I've never tried to weigh it while molten, and I don't let it cool when full, so I'm estimating.

    Don't forget to weld some handles on it, too.

    Hope this helps.

    Fred

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy Cranium's Avatar
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    I've been thinking about making a furnace myself....but electric.

    I was going to use a pipe (either cast iron or stainless), as you all have for the pot and then wrap the heating coil around it then insulation around that followed by some sheet steel or aluminum for the outside and bottom.

    The only challenge in the design at this point is the bottom pour design. I really haven't found a good source for this. I want it to be reliable and to have enough control to both do ingots and cast from. Any good sources on how to do one?

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check