Hi,
I've been reloading lead bullets for about three years now and have been casting my own since last year.
For background, I used to buy commercial lead bullets but always had trouble with them leading in 9mm and 38 Super so I took about a year and learned all I could about the dynamics of shooting lead and realized the only way I could probably solve my problems was to cast my own so I could control all the variables.
I finally have a load that shoots great in my 1911 38 Super. The bullet is from WW and is about a 13.4 BHN and I have been lubing with Felix lube. I've been using Starline 38 Super +P brass and VV-N340 is about the only powder I have found that will drive the bullet the velocity I need for NRA Action pistol without leading. So far I have everything worked out (well almost ... that is where your experience comes in) ... I can get through a NRA Action pistol match and fire 200 rds without any leading.
Gumming up the gun through is another story. The breech face, top of chamber, extractor and edges of the barrel under the hood all get gunked up pretty good with bullet lube and soot from the powder.
QuickLOAD predicts that my load is in the 15,000-16,000 psi range and my theory is the load just isn't hot enough for the Starline +P brass (which is rated for at least (edit) 36,500 psi) to seal the chamber properly so I get vaporized lube sent backwards into the gun.
I was wondering if I switched to the thinner (don't really know if it is manufactured thinner today like it originally was) 38 ACP brass if that would solve my problem. I see in my reloading books that the max CUP for the old 38 ACP round is around 23,000 CUP so it should be safe to use with my load I described above.
Anyone have any experience solving a similar problem? If I can solve the gunk issue (yes, I've already done the towel/solven/hamock trick to remove extra lube from bullets/cases) I will have a smoking round for action pistol (pun intended).
Regards,
Brian