1911 gurus, what lube

[buck1]

That about covers it . What lube do you prefer for a 1911 .45 (para ord).
Thanks guys a search didnt help much.
I am thinking shooters Choice greese???

[MtGun44]

Aircraft synthetic grease on the slide rails, 5w-20 synthetic automobile oil elsewhere are my
personal choices. You can often find Mobil 1 synthetic red grease at Walmart or other places
like that. Good stuff, a $10 grease cartridge will last 10 shooters a lifetime for gun use.

Bill

[L1A1Rocker]

I've got a custome IPSC Limited class Para P-14 (third gen) that I use Break Free's CLP on exclusively. Keep the loads to +or- .002 of 1.260 OAL with a 200 gr. H&G number 68 backed up with 5.7 to 6 grains of W231 and you should be good to go. Of course your milage may vary.

[buck1]

Awsome help! Thanks Fellas!!!

[btroj]

I have just been using Militec oil on everything. Seems to keep it moving.
I don't know if there is a best or worst as long as it isn't dry.

[EMC45]

I either use CLP or RIG or Shooter's Choice white grease. They all work great for my Mil Spec Springfield.

[c3d4b2]

You may find this interesting.

http://grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

[Geraldo]

Whatever is free. On that note I've got a lifetime supply of Militec, but I did buy some Wilson grease.

[gray wolf]

Keep the loads to +or- .002 of 1.260 OAL with a 200 gr. H&G number 68

Sorry to differ with you on this one, but 1.260 is nice for a ball type round with 1.270 being about Max. OAL. but for a # 68 type WC bullet it's a little long. I think you will find that 1.240 is about what you want for a WC of that shape. Considering the sharp lead shoulder on a # 68 I doubt it will chamber at 1.260

[That'll Do]

As far as lubricants go, everyone has their own personal preference, and for the most part, it seems that all of them do a good job.

I use either M-Pro7 Gun Oil LPX. If that isn't available, I use Breakfree CLP.

[buck1]

Thanks so much everyone!!!!

[Moonie]

for me I use a mix of 2 parts synthetic ATF, 1 part synthetic 20/50 motor oil and 1 part STP. Slick stuff and it stays where you put it.

[casterofboolits]

A lite coat of Rig Stainless +P works for me on all my autos. 1911's and Tangoglios.

[FN in MT]

You may find this interesting.

http://grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

VERY interesting. Thanks c3b4b2!

I recently snagged a new Wilson 1911 and included are a few tapes by Bill Wilson on everything from safe useage, sight picture, breakdown and Maint...to a TEST of the Wilson Ultra Lube oil and grease. Only issue was the "test" was a high speed spinning bearing,which was then pressed against another piece of metal until the lube failed. Then the damage was compared between lubes. None of my revolver cylinders turn at several thousand RPM and I doubt no matter how fast I cycle the bangbutton...my autos don't go very fast either. Weird test In my opinion....but it appeared that the Wilson Lube was by far the BEST...Big surprise there.

I have a 4 oz bottle of the Wilson Ultra Lube and have to say...it acts and smells very similarly to Chain Saw bar/chain lube! Works good on semi autos for sure too.

I always suggested lubing your revolver, auto, AR or whatever with lubricant that said GUN on it someplace. To keep it simple for people.

Those of you who haven't ......take a look at the above link. Real food for thought.

FN in MT

[82nd airborne]

Just dont over lube it if it is a carry gun!

[Piedmont]

Sorry to differ with you on this one, but 1.260 is nice for a ball type round with 1.270 being about Max. OAL. but for a # 68 type WC bullet it's a little long. I think you will find that 1.240 is about what you want for a WC of that shape. Considering the sharp lead shoulder on a # 68 I doubt it will chamber at 1.260

It all depends on the pistol barrel. One of mine likes 1.260" the best. Others need it shorter.

[sqlbullet]

I brush whatever grease I have on hand on the slide rails only when I field strip and clean, which is about every 1000 rounds. If you can see the grease, there is too much.

After a range session, I put one small drop of ATF on the rear of the gun where the slide meets the frame, and let gravity pull it down the rails.

[jmsj]

I use Mobil Vactra #2 way oil on the slide rails and inside the barrel bushing. Rem-oil usually every where else
jmsj

[Multigunner]

Which lubes should I avoid using on an aluminum frame autoloader?

I'll try some of the lubes recommended for the 1911 on my 1922 Browning, it has a steel frame.

I had been using EZOX on all my guns but the cat kept knocking the bottle over and almost all of it leaked out. I haven't found a source for EZOX locally since the main gunshop in town got closed down by a BATF strawman scam.

I was given a bottle of RemOil, and have been using it, but I've read complaints about long term use on auto pistol rails. Don't know if theres really anything to that.

For breaking in a new autoloader I use a tiny amount of a black grease I bought back in the late 60's.
To use this you apply to the rails and cycle the action a few times, six to a couple of dozen. Theres a microfine polishing compound in the grease that smooths the cycling, but you must clean every bit of it off before doing any serious shooting.
IIRC they had recommended firing the pistol with the grease on the rails, but that seemed an invitation to excessive wear to me, so I just cycle by hand till everything is slick as a ribbon, then clean throughly and lube with whatever I'm using at the time before shooting.
This worked great on my old Remington Rand 1911, and my P-35, both long gone unfortunately. I used also this on my S&W Model 59 and it doesn't seem to have harmed it.
Actions are super smooth once this has been done, and it doesn't need to be repeated later on. Unless a frame gets dropped and the rails dinged up while field stripped I suppose.

PS
I once used a wheel bearing grease on a No.4 rifle bolt, and in no time the bolt and inside of the receiver walls were polished mirror brite. Apparently some bearing grease has a microfine polishing compound in it that cleans way and corrosion on bearings.
I had never thought that a bearing grease would contain a polishing agent, seems like that would wear out the bearings.
Best I can figure is the compound doesn't bite into the hardened ball or needle bearings but does bite surface rust to clear it away and burnishes the bearing.

[35remington]

Truth?

Any good light gun type oil. Apply just before use or periodically if a gun is being regularly carried.

There isn't enough differences in lubricity and what not to matter on something as low demanding as an autopistol.

Remember the famous quote?

"The only guys who really believe there's a clear difference in oil (the subject was motor oil, but such can apply here) are the guys who sell it."

This was in the pre synthetic days.

I'd be highly suspicious if anyone were to claim better or more reliable functioning with (insert your favorite superlube here) as opposed to a good, light oil. Such isn't believable.

It's more important to:

1) Have oil
2) Have not too much

than worry about the latest Uberlube.