I have just order Flux from Midway its Frankford Arsenal clean castlead Fluxing compound. I have use saw dust, wood sticks, oil, wax, now i whont to test this product.
If you have same experience with that flux please let me know.
I have just order Flux from Midway its Frankford Arsenal clean castlead Fluxing compound. I have use saw dust, wood sticks, oil, wax, now i whont to test this product.
If you have same experience with that flux please let me know.
.................I don't think there are a whole lot of folks here who necessarily PAY for fluxing stuff since other stuff you can glom onto for free is around and works so well, or well enough. Mainly probably candle wax. My wife likes candles and after awile I end up with what's left.
The only thing besides candle wax I've ever used was Marvelux and I didn't like it. Some might think it's the best thing for the purpose. If so I'm glad as it keeps the maker in business.
Hope you get a reply to your question. If not and it works well, be sure to let us know. BTW, Midway usually has a "Rate this item" or item review you might check if you missed it earlier.
...................Buckshot
Last edited by Buckshot; 11-19-2006 at 02:19 AM.
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I suspect it is like you write but I whont try something who is constructed for the purpes.
I will report my opinion when I tested the product.
I'm probably one of the few that like Marvelux. I've never found any other flux that works and doesn't smoke. It has some flaws, like being hygroscopic, but is great for use indoors with poor or no air circulation. I've seen the F.A. flux advertising, but never tried it.
I recently tried using plain old Ivory bar soap for fluxing, and it worked great. The only down side is that it produces a low volume, mildly acrid smoke that can irritate your eyes.
I have used it before. It works OK but the residue it leaves behind on your tools will absorb any moisture in the air. This will invoke the tinsel fairy if you do not pre-heat your tools that have the residue on them before imersing them in the molten lead. I did this once and ended up with molten lead exploding all over myself and my bench, luckily I was well protected with my safety glasses and leather welding gloves.
Due to this I do not use it that much anymore and if I do I make sure to pre-heat my tools with a propane torch before using them inorder to remove any moisture that is present.
Welcome to the boards, Ciscokid!
Yes, that's what hygroscopic means.....it attracts moisture.
I hope anyone that uses Marvelux reads the directions on the can, it clearly states that any stirring or casting devices need to be preheated. I do this by laying my dross/stirring spoon on the edge of the pot for a while.
As with all operations related to casting and handloading, those who fail to read directions or wear protective equipment will eventually get hurt.
The Frankford arsenal flux that Midway sells is not Marvelux. There were no warnings on the can about pre-heating your tools that have been exposed to the flux. This should be one of the first warnings on the flux but it is not, nor is there any mention of it being or containing any hygroscopic material.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
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