I think I just drooled on my shirt.....
Gear
I think I just drooled on my shirt.....
Gear
I received my first MiHec mold today! I must be living right because I was casting AM 35-135 9mm with 50/50 +2% tin wq boolits when the mailman delivered my 44-444 2cav. cramer molds. I really like Tom's brass molds, but MiHec molds are the cats wiskers. A work of machining art! I cleaned smoked and lubed the molds, used the same alloy but ac and after about 10 cycles produced uniform bullets. Thanks Miha It was worth the wait.
You guy's are killing me over here, BUT,BUT,-- I do have one MiHa brass mold and
I love it. Very accurate in my 45 ACP.
Hate is like drinking poison and hoping the other man dies.
*Cohesiveness* *Leadership* *a common cause***
***In a gunfight your expected to be an active participant in your own rescue***
The effective range of an excuse is ZERO Meters
brass molds, when made by an expert with care, are the next best thing to being next to a hot babe who thinks you are.
Some of the photos here qualify as casters porn--wow.
The thing is, they cast as good as they look. I must have more....
Yes it is,
my boolets came out all pock marked, I thought I was getting dirt in my melt.
Tell the truth I was going to $hit can the mold, kept reading about more heat, more heat.
The problem turned out to be poor venting of the mold and trapped gas or air, take your pick.
I have cast thousands of great bullets since I learned the mold.
My melt has to be about 600 to 625*f and no hotter. But more important is not pouring hot lead in the center of the hole. It must go into the mold from the side of the sprue hole and swirl into the mold from an off center pour. Seems to let the mold vent properly.
Cast one with a direct pour and the bullets are ****, and get all pock marked.
Is it the venting of the mold that is bad ? I don't know, what I do know is I give it what it wants and it gives me great bullets. Would I get another one ? YEP.
I would love to try one of Toms molds ( accurate molds ) they look good also.
Every mold is different, least that's what I find, Got to give it what it wants.
Sam
Hate is like drinking poison and hoping the other man dies.
*Cohesiveness* *Leadership* *a common cause***
***In a gunfight your expected to be an active participant in your own rescue***
The effective range of an excuse is ZERO Meters
Brass has to be my mold material of choice
I find that brass molds are easier to cast with
for me annaway
hold there heat and are less susceptible to rhythmic changes in casting
iron is second I find aluminum to be most temperamental but is the lightest
Hit em'hard
hit em'often
Warning his molds are addicting they cast well for me and one hands on look at one will make you want more. There is one problem with them when you get one its hard to cast with it because you do not want the new look to fade.
Reloading to save money I am sure the saving is going to start soon
mlaustin, it's true that brass has a lower specific heat than aluminium but it has a higher density so it therefore takes more heat. It has ha better thermal conductivity than iron so it should be a better material than iron at least. Aluminium has a higher expansion rate than both brass and iron.
Rest In Peace My Son (01/06/1986 - 14/01/2014)
''Assume everything that moves is a human before identifying as otherwise''
Tom's moulds lock up like Fort Knox and like some of the older Ideal and Lyman moulds basically don't have any vent lines. The sprue plates fit and seal all too well, even if you try to run them loose, so "swirl" casting with a slight tilt and an off-center pour is essential for good fillout. I like ventless moulds because they force the user to pour "correctly", make boolits with less visible seams, don't let the boolits get "whiskers", and seem to make boolits with fewer air pockets. When I get a boolit with craters and half-bubbles in the base I know I didn't swirl it just right. I guess it's a matter of preference, but ventless brass moulds do it for me.
Gear
The only mold that has ever warped on me was made of brass. What may have gone wrong?
MJ
One of Miha's brass moulds should be here within a few weeks.
Handles should be ordered for a Lee 6 Cavity, right??
Care and feeding of brass the same as steel??
Kroil, or oil in general is, or is not a good thing for brass?
Wash preserfvative off new moulds with Dawn dishwashing soap?
I have never owned a brass mould before and don't want to ruin it.
Suggestions appreciated.
Thanks,
salty
Brass requires no oiling, steel add on parts might be a different matter if you are storing it. Yes, I boil in Dawn and scrub them well with a tooth brush. A wash with a volatile dry solvent that doesn't leave a residue might not be a bad idea either, something like brake cleaner or mineral spirits.
Brass seems to like it hot, at least for the first few sessions. If this is a Mihec HP mold they seem to like lots of heat, especially on the pins (they will stick to the pins if the pins aren't hot enough).
Enjoy your new work of art. Yes, you need Lee 6 cav handles, or Miha makes handles as well for a good price.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |