I'll be forming cases for my new 5.7 Johnson and, never having done them before, need to know if annealing will be required.
I'll be forming cases for my new 5.7 Johnson and, never having done them before, need to know if annealing will be required.
If you would like to shoot your newly formed cases more than 1 or 2 times it would be advisable to anneal before and after forming,otherwise the brass will become work hardened and fail prematurely. Lots of good info on these forums on how to anneal if you don't know how. Just use the search function.
INFIDEL 4 LIFE
I would highly recommend annealing your cases for any type of forming.
I've done a bunch without annealing. I lost none while forming but... I haven't reloaded them enough yet to see if it made a difference or not to longevity. Sorry, not much help.
What kind of rifle did you get? I have one of the IMI M-1 Carbine conversions. I got it in unused condition off of Gunbroker, for a nice price I might add. I found the dies on a Craigslist add.
For me it depended on the brass I used. New commercial would not form without annealing first. New pull down LC brass formed find and withstood 4 loadings so far without any splits. You will have better luck forming if you use an intermediate step to 25 cal then to 22. If you have a form set you are already way ahead of the game!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |