Getting Started, LEE Molds.

[Beau]

I am just getting started and I have a question about the LEE molds. In the directions it says to lubricate the mold with LEE Alox Beeswax. I did not order any because I did not know it was needed. So my question is if there is a substitute lube I can use? Also the directions do not say what to lubricate or how much to apply. I would assume the lube point is the pivot point on the sprue plate. Should there also be a coating between the sprue plate and mold block?

Also, when fluxing a 20lb pot with sawdust how much sawdust should be used at minimum? Thanks.

[prickett]

I am just getting started and I have a question about the LEE molds. In the directions it says to lubricate the mold with LEE Alox Beeswax. I did not order any because I did not know it was needed. So my question is if there is a substitute lube I can use? Also the directions do not say what to lubricate or how much to apply. I would assume the lube point is the pivot point on the sprue plate. Should there also be a coating between the sprue plate and mold block?

Also, when fluxing a 20lb pot with sawdust how much sawdust should be used at minimum? Thanks.

Bullplate or 2 Stroke engine oil work.

I cover my 20lb with about a 1/4" covering of sawdust, mix it in, remove, then add another like amount over the top, which I leave in place (reduces the exposure to oxygen)

[Will]

Lee wants you to put some lube on the steel alignment pins to reduce wear. Any good high temp lube will work. Don't get it in the cavity.

[JIMinPHX]

Lube both the horizontal & vertical alignment surfaces, the steel pins on the bottom & the aluminum V's that go up & down. Then lube the sprue plate, especially at the pivot point. Bullplate lube is best, but a mixture of high temp grease & never seize will work too. Don't use too much. You will need to clean the residue off when your done casting. The Bullplate doesn't really leave much of a residue behind, which is just 1 of its many good qualities.

When fluxing with sawdust, I usually use about a teaspoon in a 20 pound pot.

[Beau]

Holy thread resurection batman.
So I've noticed a couple burrs causing friction between the mould block and sprue (spelling) plate. What is the best way to remove theese?

[RobS]

if they are on the sprue plate then a fine file followed by some fine grit 600 grit wet/dry sand paper works well. If it is just some burrs on the mold block then a sharp knife will work i.e. exacto knife

[Boolseye]

I took beeswax and mixed it 50/50 w/ alox over the stove. That's all that other stuff is. Lube the moving parts (sprue plate bolt) and connecting pins. Also watch for galling...I've got a little on one of my 6-cavs, no biggy. I just need to stone down the high spots. Yes, a little lube on the top where the sprue plate contacts, but none in the cavities! Very thin coating there. everybody here swears by bullplate, so i ordered some.

as for sawdust...just a couple tablespoons when you're casting. Mix it up and then let it set on top–it helps prevent oxidization of tin Just a thin layer of blackened sawdust–you can push it aside when you heat up your mold (you're gonna wanna do that, 30-40 seconds, dip the corner right in there) then sweep it back over the surface of the melt.

Good luck–and welcome!

[Doble Troble]

Mr. File...but carefully...and then figure-out what caused the galling. It'll be either burrs on the steel sprue plate, or lack of lube. Mr. File takes care of the burrs. Bullplate or 2-stroke oil will take care of the lube .