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Thread: Could someone help this old dumby?

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Could someone help this old dumby?



    Hi All,
    I do believe I am getting dumber by the day
    I hope that one of you guys can explain to me in laymens terms how the RCBS Pocket swager works??
    It comes with a tool that looks like a FLS die and some sort of buton, all it states is that it works with RCBS shell holders.

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    Guess I'm a dumby too.
    2

    How old must you be to be considered an "old dumby" ?

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
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    The button (there are 2, one for large pocket, one for small) is forced into the primer pocket and makes it bigger (only in areas that are too small such as a crimp) so that primers will insert with normal force. This mounts on the ram the same way a shellholder does. There is a sleave that goes over it so you can pop the shell back off on the downstroke when done.

    The die contains an adjustable rod that pushes down on the inside web of the case to hold it against the button so it can be inserted and swage the case. This needs to be adjusted for different types/brands of brass or it can be bent, or not push brass all the way onto the button.

    I find sometimes I still need to use a chamfer tool or reamer to take a bit off the primer pocket edge of crimped brass to make primers insert easily. Sometimes I just ream instead of swaging.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thank You!!
    That is what I though, but I wanted to know for sure.
    Thanks
    G

  5. #5
    Boolit Master cheese1566's Avatar
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    Take baby steps when setting them up. I bought two sets that had bent rods (cheap!) and were replaced by RCBS.

    I didn't bend the new rods, but did however bend the pins on my RL3 press just enough that they are stiff to get out. I did that by having a brain fart when first setting it up.

  6. #6
    Boolit Man
    liljohnnie's Avatar
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    I replaced the center pin with a long grade 5 bolt of the same diameter and thread pitch, just cut the head off so the rod was the same length as the original (this was the large diameter rod by the way). I can pinch the case web hard enough now to ruin cases. Don't ask how i know that.
    INFIDEL 4 LIFE

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
    buyobuyo's Avatar
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    The best bit of advice I've received on setting up the swager is to screw the main body down far enough so that the press can't cam over. You lose the mechanical advantage of the press camming over. However, you have greater feel of the button entering the pocket, and it is a lot harder to bend the rods.

  8. #8
    In Remembrance

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    Here is a link to a video that shows its adjustment;
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SdkA7vDeaes&NR=1

    Some people say certain LEE press rams stick up far enough that the bucket that removes the brass from the pin won't reach so here is a link to how one guy fixed that problem;
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5EFZ...eature=related

  9. #9
    In Remembrance


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    Different arsenal made cases will have a different internal dimension from case head to case mouth. As you need to set the die in the press for the particular make of brass you will be doing, a differently made case with a different internal distance will result in a bent die rod. Seperate your brass by arsenal and make before starting to do the pockets.Robert

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    the problem with most swagers is they are adjusted based on case head thickness...and case head thickness varies from lot to lot, maker to maker. the end results poorly swaged pockets,,,that may need more help..reaming...see above.

    the problem with most reamers is thay take out too much material. either cut to wide, cut part of the face, and or cut the primer pockect depth.....

    for just a few cases the rcbs chamfer tool that looks like a rocket works ok.

    for a bunch...i still suggest the lymann vld inside neck reamer. as is it is PERFECT for small primer pockets, for large primer pockets grind down the tip till the tool produces an acceptable pocket.

    driven by a power source(drill, drill press, lathe) you will zip thru cases.......

    the need part is no cutter on teh end...when it bottoms out, you are done.

    mike in co
    only accurate rifles are interesting

  11. #11
    Boolit Master zuke's Avatar
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    I took an RCBS chamfer took and chucked it in my cordless drill and had at it.
    Had the tool, had the drill and had the time to do a 5 gallon pail of 556 brass.

  12. #12
    In Remembrance

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    Listen to mike in co and be careful on how much material you take away with the reamers and chamfer tools.
    I quit buying military brass from people that advertise that they removed the crimp because some guys go overboard with the cutters. I got a couple hundred brass from a guy that half of the pocket was gone, these things were funnels. His arguement was they work fine for me, deal with it...Lesson learned.

    You just want to remove the crimp and it doesn't take much.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check