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Thread: Herters Mold 32176

  1. #1
    Boolit Master




    bruce drake's Avatar
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    Herters Mold 32176

    Does anyone have experience with this mold from Herters? I just one it on E-Bay and the description only stated the caliber but not the weight of the bullet produced by the mold. It is a Gas-checked Spitzer design by the looks of the picture.

    Thanks,

    Bruce Drake

  2. #2
    Boolit Master on Heaven’s Range
    onceabull's Avatar
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    Bruce: I looked at that mouold y'day,compared to illustrations @ Castpics,and decided it was likely a clone of Lymans 323366.. Geo.Leonard H..was not known for wasting $ on new design work,and we "Know" a lot of herter's moulds were done by Lyman.. FWIW, Onceabull
    "The Eagle is no flycatcher"

  3. #3
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    Lyman 323366

    Thanks for the information, I did a Google search on the Lyman 323366. If the Herter's is a copy of the same, the advice across several forums is to keep it under 1600fps for bullet stability due to the long ogive. People also say that it drops bullets between 175-185 grains depending on the alloy.

    I figure it will be a nice countermate to my Lee 170gr round nose mold in 8mm.

    Bruce

  4. #4
    Boolit Bub
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    I believe Herters marked there moulds with the first two numbers being the caliber and the last three as the weight. In other words, yours should be 32 caliber at a nominal 176 grains. I have a Herters 45 caliber rifle mould marked as 45300 - it's 45 caliber (.457) and nominal 300 grains. It casts the same bullet as Lyman's 457191.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master




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    molded a bunch today

    Got the mold handles in the mail today and married them up with the Herter's Mold. The Herter's Screws were a little big for the RCBS handles but a quick pass with a reamer fixed that. The mold itself looks and acts brand new.

    Was surprised at such a long nose this mold cast but the mold definitely liked the alloy I was pouring. After five quick heater bullets were cast and discarded back into the pot the sixth came out fully formed and looking sharp. This pattern was quickly followed like clockwork for the next 100 bullets before I stopped for the evening.

    I slipped one through the lubrisizer to put a gascheck on it and it looks nice. I guess I have to prep some brass now to load and test these bullets as well.

    Bruce

  6. #6
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    ...........Be interesting to hear about how it does. What alloy?

    ..........Buckshot
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  7. #7
    Boolit Mold Capt Crunch's Avatar
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    I just bought one of these molds from a guy on ebay and wanted to know which top punch to use w/it. Any experience with this mold would be greatly appriciated. I am planning on loading some for a buddy with an old turkish mauser in 8x57mm. thanks, Jim
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  8. #8
    In Remembrance


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    Well, the correct top punch for the Lyman is the #329. I must say it took me a bit of looking before I found mine, due to it not being currently made. I`ve heard you can make your own by using JB weld in a drilled out top punch. I think I read a thread here on the site of the how`s to do to make one.

    The 15 gr. charge of Unique will give you about 1600 fps for a good load.Robert

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check