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Thread: Cleaning a used Lyman 61 furnace

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold blainenay's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Cedar City, Utah
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    5

    Cleaning a used Lyman 61 furnace

    I just got an old rusty Lyman 61 furnace. It seems to work fine, but before I start casting with it, I want to get it cleaned up.

    What should I do to clean the reservoir of rust and lead residue?

    How clean does it need to be for trouble-free casting?

    How do I clean the spout?

    Is the spout flow adjustable? If so, how do I adjust it?

    It's missing the temperature control knob. Any tips on where to find a replacement?
    An idle reloading press is bad for the soul.

  2. #2
    In Remembrance
    oneokie's Avatar
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    Oct 2007
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    Jackson County, Choctaw Nation, Indian Territory
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    To remove the rust, fill the reservoir with vinegar and let soak for several days, or, use a wire brush wheel on a drill. (wear a dust mask if you use this method)

    To clean the spout, use a 1/16" drill bit from the underside of the pot.

    To adjust the flow, there should be a bracket on the top right side of the pot with a bolt and lock nut/s. This limits the upward travel of the lever/handle that actuates the metering rod.

    The best method I know of for removing lead residue from the reservoir and metering rod is to melt a pot full of lead and flux heavily with sawdust. A 1/4" or thicker layer of charcoal dust from the sawdust will remove most, if not all of the residue.

    For a replacement knob, contact Kings Kiln Repair in Raywood, MO. A google search will get you their contact information.
    Those who fail to study history are doomed to repeat it.

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    Freud

  3. #3
    Le Loup Solitaire
    Guest

    Lyman 61

    This pot and the Saeco were made by the same company and they were a couple of the better pots ever made. +1 on the advice given by Oneokie, but I would suggest doing some gentle wire brushing first in the pot. The vinegar treatment will get the rust out however keep in mind that vinegar contains acetic acid and that will eat rust as well as good metal so if you go that route, a couple of hours of soak may be all that you need. You have to keep an eye on it for you don't want to have a hole eaten in the pot sides or bottom. A well running pot should be reasonably clean; every pot has some crud in it so it is necessary to always scrape the sides & bottom when in use....and periodically be emptied and cleaned well. The spout can be kept clean by taking a thin finishing nail or piece of wire held in a pliers or vise grips and running it up into the spout hole when hot to knock out any buildup or pieces of crud that may interfere with the flow. Its a bit messy to do but it will stop drips from being a nuisance. The 1/16 drill bit will also get anything out (when cold) that is solidified in the spout. The valve snout should also be kept clean with some #0000 steel wool. The valve snout is on the lower end of the metering rod which is controlled from above on the top of the pot. Adjustment is simple with a nut or two and an end wrench. Once cleaned up, the blued steel or iron on the outside of the pot can be sprayed with Rustoleum Stove Black Hi Temp 1200 degree so that it will not rust again. Anything that you don't want hit with the spray like the thermostat can be shielded with masking tape. LLS

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check