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Thread: Repair to damaged mold?

  1. 10-19-2010, 12:46 PM #21
    Capt Crunch
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    Hey J,
    The mold was high centering on the middle two cavities, a little elbow greese, 1500 grit paper and honing oil. The mold lines were much more pronounced than they are now. I was concerned about the greese grooves running together when sized. I thought I have kept a sample of before, evidently got a little overzealous and melted them all back into ingots. I cast a couple hundred last night and was very pleased with the results. Still have to work on my technique, too much weight variance. As much as 3.5 grns difference.
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  2. 10-19-2010, 03:55 PM #22
    HeavyMetal
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    Cap'n:
    Glad to hear you got it worked out. Saw the pictures and I think you have it nailed.

    Fins on the top might be from to much tin in the alloy or to hot.

    Tough to make that call without having the mold in hand.
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  3. 10-19-2010, 08:45 PM #23
    Capt Crunch
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    hvy metal, thank you for all you help. I would have either had to save and buy another mold, or have this one hollow pointed. Now when AJ (my son) kills his deer this year he can boast that not only did his dad load his rounds, but actually made the bullet. thank you again, Jim

    one last thing (for now), could you recommend a good lube, looking at LBT blue soft. dont have a heater for my sizer
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check