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Thread: How close is close enough?

  1. #1
    Boolit Man kentuckycajun's Avatar
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    How close is close enough?

    I just got 2000 new Starline brass in .357, and have a few questions before I waste any unnessesary time prepping them.

    I've found the general concensus here is to size before trimming. I ran about 500 through full lenght resizing (and yes, they did stretch about .002 - .003). I measured EVERY one (I have a great job where I can do this at work in my spare time - nice to get paid while I do this). They vary in length from 1.275 up to 1.283. Is this good for new brass?

    I want to trim them all to the same length, and to have them all perfect at 1.275 would be optimal, but unrealistic.

    So, how close is close enough? +/- .001? +/- .002?

    Hope I'm posting in the right place - sorry if it's not.
    "If you carry a gun, people will call you paranoid. That's ridiculous. If I have a gun, what do I have to be paranoid about."

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

    GP100man's Avatar
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    I set my calipers up as a go -no-go gage at 1.280 alot will pass !!!

    After a loadin I trimm with the lee system on a drill press at 1.278 & they stabilize for a good while !!
    GP100man

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy 500bfrman's Avatar
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    i never even mess with new brass.
    Are you mormon? no. Are you catholic? no. Do you know what causes it? yes. and we like it.

  4. #4
    Boolit Man kentuckycajun's Avatar
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    What I'm getting at is, if I pick a midpoint (say 1.279) to set my flare and roll crimp dies with, that will give me +/- .004 variance.
    Will .004 make that much of a difference in the consistency of the crimp?
    Or should I trim them to a closer tolerance?
    "If you carry a gun, people will call you paranoid. That's ridiculous. If I have a gun, what do I have to be paranoid about."

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Unfortunately, I don't get paid to do brass prep, but my time is my own, so I set about trimming every piece of .357 and .38 brass I have. I figured that having them all the same length would produce the most consistent crimp. Since straight-wall handgun brass doesn't grow, unlike bottle-necked rifle brass, it's a one-time job.

    I even started trimming .45 ACP cases but soon discovered than they don't need it. All of them were under maximum length, regardless of headstamp.

    Two-thousand is a lot, but I'd trim them.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

    GP100man's Avatar
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    With the naked eye u will not be able to see the difference , with hard boolits ya may be able to feel it , but to see it you`ll have to get into the .010-.015 range .

    I tried a batch of .010-.012different length brass (in the same batch) over the chronograph& it made little sd difference

    But when adjusted to the longer brass & the crimp went lite on some the sd was alot wider !!!!

    Testing was done with h-110 powder.
    GP100man

  7. #7
    Boolit Man kentuckycajun's Avatar
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    Thanks GP, that's what I was lookin for. I don't have a chrono just yet - hopefully soon. Guess I'll try to get them all to within 1 or 2 thous (not at one sitting, of course)
    Incidently, I'm shooting a GP-100 also - 6" SS w/ Hogue grips. Absolutely LOVE it!! Accuracy is pretty good right now, but I know I can do better.
    "If you carry a gun, people will call you paranoid. That's ridiculous. If I have a gun, what do I have to be paranoid about."

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check