ok..took the gun apart..
firing pin protrusion is aprox 57-60 thou
oal of firing pin is 3.618...anyone have a spec or measurement of a new/newer pin(1965)
saw nothing to interfere with normal operation...no dirt or carbon built up anywhere.
...
mike in co
only accurate rifles are interesting
Firing pin protrusion is good. Did you check the transfer button in the locking bolt for free movement?Originally Posted by mike in co
Have you broken down the round that failed to fire? Check primer pocket depth of that case? Examine the primer for obvious defects? Anvil present in the primer cup? Priming compound evident in the cup? If all these things check out good, no idea of what to suggest.
Those who fail to study history are doomed to repeat it.
“A fear of weapons is a sign of retarded sexual and emotional maturity”. Sigmund
Freud
there was a boolit in the case, powder in the case, and a primer in the case....with a nice firing pin indentation...but no ignition. when pushing out the primer..it got away...but they all had the compound and anvils when they went in the priming tool. and yes the transfer button has freedom of movement.......i did not measure the depth of the primer pocket...think i would have felt the differencee in seating the primers...i'll mark the case and see what happens next time.
mike in co
only accurate rifles are interesting
Hi Mike,
Does it have the "rebounding hammer" B.S. arrangement? If you take off the rear stock and look at the link that goes between the hammer and the other end of the spring (inside the spring) and it has a curve with 2-legs pushing on the hammer, then you do. If so, trim off about 1/8-3/16" of the lower leg and then it will stop pushing the hammer away from the firing pin just as it's about to hit it. Mine fires every time now.
no it maybe a while before i have time to play with it again..
but it is right here in front of me.
the comment on modifiying the rebounding hammer spring has me curious...
any commeent on that subject ?
mike in co
only accurate rifles are interesting
Hi Mike,
The actual part I am taslking about cutting is the one I am pointing to with this arrow. I didn't do a thing to the spring.
It is this leg which hits the hammer and bounces it back a bit just before it strikes. This was the cause of all my troubles. I found the procedure somewhere on the net but don't recall where.
Just be very careful not to take off too much or you ruin the part. I took off about 3/16" on mine. When you go to put this back in, you can put a small pin into the hole on the spring guide after compressing the spring and then pull out the pin once you get it into position.
Hope this helps.
yes this does not have a coil spring..it has dual leaf springs....
again it is a 1965
only accurate rifles are interesting
Mike in CO,
Hey guys, I don't know if you guys paid attention to his post, but he said he had a good solid primer strike on the one round that failed to fire. Mike you may have just had a bad primer. It happens. I've seen primers with no anvils. Mike, make sure you are seating your primers to the bottom of the primer pocket, which is often slightly below flush. The primer has to make contact with the bottom of the pocket with sufficient force to cause the anvil to seat in the primer cup and sensatize the primer. If the primer is not seated to the bottom of the pocket, it can move when the FP strikes it. The movement obsorbs the FP force. If the primer pocket is dirty, it can cause the same thing to occur because the anvil will not "crush" into the primer cup. I was the rep for CCI for many years and have watched primers being made. Most folks don't realize that they are still made by hand and although it doesn't happen very often, an occassional bad primer, out of the millions made every year, still gets past quality control.
You might check the sides of the hammer for undue wear or a bright spot, which would indicate rubbing between frame and hammer. I know of this condition causing misfires by slowing the hammer fall.
That's how it reads to me. It's very easy to misinterpret ammo problems as firearm problems. If the primer indent was good (as it was), and all subsequent hits showed likewise (as they did), the gun did precisely what it was supposed to do. No point fixing what's not broken.
Just a round with a bad primer, or a bad primer pocket, etc. Good luck.
i shot the gun again today...31 rounds....sight in and 4 loads....no misfires.
have not reshot the one pc of brass that failed.
all primers were fullu seated with a slight crush.
so maybe dirt in the gun or operator error ?
mike in co
only accurate rifles are interesting
Still think it was a bad primer or bad primer pocket in that one piece of brass. If you still know which piece you had the problem with, put a fresh primer in the case and see if the gun will pop the primer. Doing this will tell you which caused the problem. A little time and a 3˘ primer.
Those who fail to study history are doomed to repeat it.
“A fear of weapons is a sign of retarded sexual and emotional maturity”. Sigmund
Freud
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