I've heard folks talking about doing this, but HOW do you do this?
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I've heard folks talking about doing this, but HOW do you do this?
Step 1: Take barrel out of gun.
Step 2: Load rounds.
Step 3: Drop loaded round into chamber.
They should generally drop in flush using only their own weight, and should generally fall out of the chamber on their own weight as well.
The reason for this, case gauges are made to SAAMI specs, and will assure that your ammunition will chamber in ALL guns in that caliber.
That means even the absolute tightest of chambers.
Since we tailor loads to individual guns, using the chamber of the barrel as a case gauge will assure that the round will chamber in THAT gun.
"I have enough ammo and guns to shoot my way into Nevada." - California resident.
You can also see if the bolt closes easily, although most rifles have considerable camming power on closing, so it is easy to think you have set headspace on the case a couple thousandths smaller than the chamber, when you actually have it a couple thou too big.
If it's a bolt action it is recommended that the firing pin be removed. This will give a more realistic feel when closing the bolt.
To the OP it would help if we new what type of firearm it was.
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*Cohesiveness* *Leadership* *a common cause***
***In a gunfight your expected to be an active participant in your own rescue***
The effective range of an excuse is ZERO Meters
I'm going to assume by your name that you are talking about a 1911. If so then the picture below will explain things.
I like that picture Gohon.
Sure helps when you can visualize what's being said in text.
"I have enough ammo and guns to shoot my way into Nevada." - California resident.
sorry 'bout that. Its an XD .40
The other reason to use your bbl for a final gage is case gages have no rifling. They only tell you if the case fits the SAAMI spec. Since every manuf bbl is a bit diff, one may have a shallower throat than another & ammo w/ a certain OAL that fits say a SPringfield 1911 won't fit a XDTAC (ask me how I know).
I set the OAL at 1.135, which is the max (?) But its still a little low, according to the picture above. But the Lyman book puts the OAL for a cast bullet (lyman truncated) at 1.100, so If you could set me straight I would appreciate it. Im trying to get the thing to quit leading.
I started using my Glock barrel as a case gage after one factory round had a bit of debris between the brass and bullet. I was at the range, and this round jammed into the chamber so tight and so far that it took a large flat blade screwdriver (covered in tape) to wedge in and force the slide back.
Since then I use my barrel as a case gage for all of my carry ammo.
Randy
Plata o plomo?
Plomo, por favor!
I loaded a round with one grain of 231, and shot it into a coat, so that I could measure the bullet. At the base of the cone of the bullet Im getting .399 5. At the bottom of the bullet, Im getting .398 at the most.
When I run a bullet through the Lee sizer die, Im getting .401 and a little 5.
I'm certainly no expert and a lot of others on here are smarter than I on these subjects but I've never heard of COAL being the source of barrel leading. maybe I'll learn something.
If I'm deciphering you last post correctly my understanding is.........
(1) You're slugging your barrel by shooting a round through it with primer and one grain of
powder power?
(2) Your sizing your boolets at .401 (don't know what that "and a little 5" means).
(3) Your readings on the fired boolet are .399 on the ogive and .398 at the base.
Is this correct?
Questions.....
What alloy are you using?
What lube are you using?
What powder are you using?
What speed are you driving the boolets?
Are you using a Lee FCD?
What is the amount of leading you're getting and how many rounds before it shows up?
The more everyone knows the better they can help you with your problem.
yes, I slugged the barrel under powerOriginally Posted by Gohon
the little 5. ~ I have a digital caliper, and it reads .4015
(3) Your readings on the fired boolet are .399 on the ogive and .398 at the base.
Yes.
alloy: Water dropped Wheel Weights
lube : 1 lb beeswax, 1 lb paraphin 13 oz petroleum jelly, 2 tbsp. STP oil treatment, and 4 1/2 tbsp Lanolin
powder : Winchester 231, @ 5.1 gn.Winchester primers WSP
180gn Lyman truncated cone, bevel base, 1 lube groove
The leading shows up within a few rounds, and gets pretty thick quite quickly.
Stainless1911 i had the same problem as you an am curious myself of the answer. I backed down to 4.5 231 with better results and only slight leading.
That's too light of a load. 231 ranges from 4.3 to 5.8. There isnt any point in casting at all, if the gun doesnt work properly. You don't have to run max loads all day, but if you can't run a medium load, then its not working. People can shoot 2K= loads out of a rifle, there must be a way to get 850 or 900 fps out of a 3" barrel without leading. Besides, this is my carry gun, Im not going to want to practice with a weak load, and then carry a real bullet. I want to make real bullets.
I would personally just go ahead and slug the barrel the old fashioned way.
Unfortunately, you may be sizing down the boolit when seating, and that will give you false readings.
Last edited by thx997303; 12-01-2010 at 03:04 PM.
"I have enough ammo and guns to shoot my way into Nevada." - California resident.
Stainless, do a search on .40 S&W, check posts by me and Doby45, this has all been covered in great detail recently.
Gear
Here, I found one of the better ones for you. Please read. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ght=.40+Doby45
Gear
Used to do that with a spare 1911 45 acp barrel.
U S Navy Retired. NRA Lifetime Member. NMLA. SASS Member Time magazine Person of the year 2006
I think the problem is in the dies. You mentioned an expander die as a possible culprit, Im using a Lee 4 pc. die set, are you referring to the die with the de priming pin, or the die to expand the mouth so that you can put the bullets in easier?
And how do I fix the problem when I find it?
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