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Thread: Star Lube Sizer Air Feed for Lube Completed & Successful

  1. #61
    Boolit Buddy AJ Peacock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CiDirkona View Post
    The home depot part that fits the star cap is A-182, but I do like your creative solution as well.

    I finally rebuilt my piston with the Do It Best washers, but they leak just enough that the minitank only lasts a minute or two before draining... I think a 5 gallon desk top tank may be in my near future...
    A-182, no kidding. I'll be heading over there tomorrow to do it right

    thanks,

    AJ

  2. #62
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I'll be heading out for a different regulator.

    Note* The Russell part that I used worked great. I used a double thick o-ring and sealing was no problem with the extra surface area the part had.

    The 182-A part works good also. I used an o ring measuring .100X 11/16 outside dia X 1/2 inside dia.

    The Russell part works with a .100 thick X 5/8 inside dia X 13/16 outside dia.

    I used a 1 1/4 X 1 X 1/8 or #19 o-ring for the screw on cap.
    Last edited by 6bg6ga; 12-18-2010 at 10:19 PM.

  3. #63
    Boolit Buddy AJ Peacock's Avatar
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    Easy Plunger for the air mod.

    I gave some thought to making a new plunger for use with the air mod and came up with an idea I think is worth sharing.

    Removing the plunger is the best part, sounds like a tater gun going off !

    A picture is worth a thousand words, so



    I used a 1/2" pvc cap, tubeless valvestem, a couple O-rings and a bit of silicone to hold it all in place. I drilled a hole in the cap, pushed the valve stem up through the hole and chucked it in my drill press. Then I cut a couple slots with a wood rasp. Siliconed the valve stem into the cap and Voila!



    I used a short piece of 3/8" metal tubing to push the plunger down below the cap. I didn't want to push on the valvestem, so I used the metal tubing to push the plunger down.



    To remove the plunger, just add a LITTLE air. I used the full 100psi hose the first time and the plunger AND all the old lube came right up through the top. It's a little disheartening, but once it reaches the top, the air escapes and you can catch your breath. I'll be routing the pressure through the regulator from now on! I think 100+psi is a bit much to raise the plunger

    Let me know what you think? Total cost is under $2/each, but you end up with enough parts to build 2, since the valve stems come in 2 packs.

    AJ

    ps: I told you guys I grew up on a farm with no money. I'm absolutely dangerous with a little baling wire and some duct tape.

  4. #64
    Boolit Master
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    AJ, very interesting idea. How well do the O rings seal in the tube? I find that using the original spring plunger works until air gets beneath it, then you have to remove the assembly and reinstall it. Your idea may make a better seal to avoid the trapped air issue. What is below the tubeless air valve ? Is there an indentation that might fill with lube? Great job!! Rod

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJ Peacock View Post
    I gave some thought to making a new plunger for use with the air mod and came up with an idea I think is worth sharing.
    This is the plunger??
    It won't work! It only Appears to work because the old lube is already compressed into the sizer. Add a fresh stick or let it run for a while and you're out of luck.
    Air pressure alone will not feed the lube properly, you must have a movable piston.
    Last edited by Frozone; 12-19-2010 at 08:43 PM.

  6. #66
    Boolit Buddy AJ Peacock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frozone View Post
    This is the plunger??
    It won't work! It only Appears to work because the old lube is already compressed into the sizer. Add a fresh stick or let it run for a while and you're out of luck.
    Air pressure alone will not feed the lube properly, you must have a movable piston.
    I can assure you, that it works. I've posted a picture of the plunger after I added lube and used the sizer, you'll see that the piston has indeed moved down the tube and compressed the lube. (see a post later on this page).

    Frozone, the piston moves down the tube after the cap is placed back on and pressurized. The valve stem is to remove the piston by pressurizing UNDER it when you need to add Lube.

    AJ
    Last edited by AJ Peacock; 12-19-2010 at 10:37 PM. Reason: Added clarity and reference to a picture later on this page.

  7. #67
    Boolit Buddy AJ Peacock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodsvet View Post
    AJ, very interesting idea. How well do the O rings seal in the tube? I find that using the original spring plunger works until air gets beneath it, then you have to remove the assembly and reinstall it. Your idea may make a better seal to avoid the trapped air issue. What is below the tubeless air valve ? Is there an indentation that might fill with lube? Great job!! Rod
    They seal well. I had to slowly enlarge the slots, until the O-rings were just the right diameter to slide very snug in the tube.

    I put the air modified cap over it and pressurized it, the plunger slides down the tube onto the top of the lube and presses down on the lube. To remove this plunger once it's down the tube, either grab the valve stem with some long nose pliers, or put some air in it and it will slide back up the tube, so you can put some more lube in. Then put the plunger back in, the cap back on and pressurize as you would with the original plunger in the tube.

    AJ

  8. #68
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Your idea is different for sure. To me it would seem a more time consuming venture than using the spring loaded piston and a 5/8-18 1/4 NPT adapter. If it works for you and you are happy then go for it.

  9. #69
    Boolit Buddy AJ Peacock's Avatar
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    Here are a couple more pictures to make it clear.

    I don't think I made it clear how I'm using my new plunger.

    Here is what it looks like while in use (with the air mod cap).




    Here is what it looks like just prior to being removed to add more lube. By applying a little air, the plunger lifts itself up and out of the tube. Hopefully this is clear now.



    It works very well, allows more lube than the spring plunger and is easier to remove than pulling up on the spring plunger to add lube.

    Hopefully you guys can understand what I'm doing better now.

    AJ

  10. #70
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    how much heat you using and what type of lube??

    that all plays into the setup.

  11. #71
    Boolit Buddy AJ Peacock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HATCH View Post
    how much heat you using and what type of lube??

    that all plays into the setup.
    The only Lube I've used with this setup is Carnuba Red (very hard) and the universal heater + dimmer switch. I set the dimmer between 1/3 and 1/2. With about 20-25lbs of air pressure, it feeds great.

    AJ

  12. #72
    Boolit Buddy AJ Peacock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodsvet View Post
    AJ, very interesting idea. How well do the O rings seal in the tube? I find that using the original spring plunger works until air gets beneath it, then you have to remove the assembly and reinstall it. Your idea may make a better seal to avoid the trapped air issue. What is below the tubeless air valve ? Is there an indentation that might fill with lube? Great job!! Rod

    Nothing but lube is below the valvestem.

    I don't know if lube gets up in the hollow, when I pressurize it to remove the plunger, it pushes it out.

    AJ

  13. #73
    Boolit Master
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    AJ, did you also turn down the exterior of the pipe cap? I have a few 1/2 caps and they are too large to fit into the tube. I may put one in the drill press and use sand paper to reduce the exterior dimension. Again, this is an interesting idea. Thank you for the write up and pictures. I wish I were more computer savy---I don't know how to put pictures in my posts [too old I guess]. Rod

  14. #74
    Boolit Buddy Daddyfixit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJ Peacock View Post
    They seal well. I had to slowly enlarge the slots, until the O-rings were just the right diameter to slide very snug in the tube.

    I put the air modified cap over it and pressurized it, the plunger slides down the tube onto the top of the lube and presses down on the lube. To remove this plunger once it's down the tube, either grab the valve stem with some long nose pliers, or put some air in it and it will slide back up the tube, so you can put some more lube in. Then put the plunger back in, the cap back on and pressurize as you would with the original plunger in the tube.

    AJ
    That looks like it might seal better than the OEM set-up. If it holds pressure without leaking then this might work better for those wanting to try putting a small air tank or chamber on top of the regulator

    I love all the "MacGyver" idieas!! Men after my own Heart...Good old American ingenuity!!

  15. #75
    Boolit Buddy AJ Peacock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodsvet View Post
    AJ, did you also turn down the exterior of the pipe cap? I have a few 1/2 caps and they are too large to fit into the tube. I may put one in the drill press and use sand paper to reduce the exterior dimension. Again, this is an interesting idea. Thank you for the write up and pictures. I wish I were more computer savy---I don't know how to put pictures in my posts [too old I guess]. Rod
    Yes, the open end of the 1/2" cap was probably ,05" too big, so I sanded it down a little when I cut the grooves. It seals so well, that it won't pull up without applying heat and really pulling hard, or simply applying air (that is the easy method).

    Hope this helps out,
    AJ

  16. #76
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Not trying to be negative here but it seems like a lot of work, Troy's piston that he made would be easier to put together and easily removed when needing to add lube. If a person turned a piston on a lathe and machined O-ring grooves in it for a top and bottom O-ring this would be a better solution. An easy drilled and tapped hole in which to screw in the stock rod to extract the piston for adding lube. Your solution while working now can only prove to be problematic in the future. Just my .02

  17. #77
    Boolit Buddy AJ Peacock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    Not trying to be negative here but it seems like a lot of work, Troy's piston that he made would be easier to put together and easily removed when needing to add lube. If a person turned a piston on a lathe and machined O-ring grooves in it for a top and bottom O-ring this would be a better solution. An easy drilled and tapped hole in which to screw in the stock rod to extract the piston for adding lube. Your solution while working now can only prove to be problematic in the future. Just my .02
    Thanks for your .02 worth. I'm sure it is worth it.

    Please expound on what will be problematic? Of course a 1/4x20 bolt could be used in replacement of the valve stem, but that would make my shoulder hurt everytime I need to pull the plunger out.

    If I had a Lathe, I'd have made this using Nylon. From a functional perspective, this solution should be equivalent to a lathed piece of nylon.

    AJ

  18. #78
    Boolit Buddy
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    I really like that idea -- I bet it'd be less leaky than my current flat washers design...

    Last edited by CiDirkona; 12-20-2010 at 12:16 PM.

  19. #79
    Boolit Buddy Daddyfixit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJ Peacock View Post
    Thanks for your .02 worth. I'm sure it is worth it.

    Please expound on what will be problematic? Of course a 1/4x20 bolt could be used in replacement of the valve stem, but that would make my shoulder hurt everytime I need to pull the plunger out.

    If I had a Lathe, I'd have made this using Nylon. From a functional perspective, this solution should be equivalent to a lathed piece of nylon.

    AJ
    AJ, at $2 for two you have a great idea! Would a Delron or Nylon machined piece work better? Probably..but I'll bet for more than a buck!

    "To remove the plunger, just add a LITTLE air. I used the full 100psi hose the first time and the plunger AND all the old lube came right up through the top. It's a little disheartening, but once it reaches the top, the air escapes and you can catch your breath. I'll be routing the pressure through the regulator from now on! I think 100+psi is a bit much to raise the plunger"

    I dang near killed myself falling off the stool I laughed so hard
    I attend the School of Hard Knocks! Heres to another a Alumni

  20. #80
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I can't help but think the O-rings are going to come off. Your fit on the assembly is due to hand sanding? If you got lucky it might be close to being round. Probably the best solution is to purchase PN's S107, and AF107 being the HYCAR washer and the Aluminum piston. The HYCAR mounting screw and washer can be sourced locally. Better yet would be to use the aluminum piston and have (2) HYCAR seals one on each end. The top end using a fastener that would screw into the aluminum piston and also have a female thread by which to screw in the extractor rod. This combo would result in perfect seal situation. The assembly could be made of nylon for sure.

    I'm not meaning to ruffle any feathers here but sometimes a step back to analyze the time and money spent on something crude does result in something more worthwhile and usable. Its better to do something once than to repeat something less than optimum.

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